Yemi’s Food Stories: Making a good chicken burger

Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in last year’s BBC TV’s Masterchef  competition. Every Saturday Yemi will be writing on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food  – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.  

 

A reader suggested I visit Six Poor Folk restaurant in Knaresborough so I went there with a friend. As it was a lovely day, we decided to sit in their outdoor garden.

Service was prompt as the waiters came within minutes to take our orders but we needed a few minutes to make our choices. We chose the beef burger cooked medium and the chicken-chorizo burger both served with fries.

The beef burger arrived with the beef cooked medium as expected and came with sautéed mushrooms, cooked onions and cheese (see below). The chips were crunchy and lightly seasoned; the salad had a light and delicious dressing of balsamic vinegar and it didn’t feel oily or over-dressed.

With my chicken burger, I didn’t know whether to expect a ‘bird’s eye’ type chicken burger, a chicken escalope or schnitzel.

Escalope is beaten, flattened and breaded meat that can be fried or baked in an oven; schnitzel is a version of escalope that is fried.

Many nations have their own version of breaded meat from a Southern American favourite chicken-fried steaks, German chicken schnitzel, chicken katsu that is made from ‘unflattened’ breaded chicken to the Veal schnitzel which is Austria’s national dish but may have originated from Northern Italy as costoletta alla Milanese.

As I waited for my burger, I imagined what it could be so when it came, I quickly lifted the ciabatta bun to see sliced roasted chicken and chorizo on top of grilled ciabatta bread, and some spiced mayo which reminded me of piri-piri seasoned mayo (see main image) . It was delicious but nothing like what I thought it would be; a burger always makes me think there will be a ‘pattie’, breaded or shaped and grilled minced meat.

The roast chicken was tender and juicy and the mayonnaise melted into the bun to create a decent bite. It was more like eating a good roast chicken sandwich than eating a chicken burger.

I enjoyed dipping my chips into the Hellman’s mayonnaise that was on the table which is one of my indulgences. Overall it was a good lunch at a reasonable price and would make for a nice day out. Its closeness to Knaresborough castle and the high street means you can head out for some sight seeing after your meal.

Here’s my take on a chicken burger:

Step 1 – make chicken Kiev filled with wild garlic butter, chopped parsley and some Korean (Gochugaru) or Kashmiri chilli flakes. The chilli is for colour and not heat. Beat and flatten the chicken, place the flavoured butter in the middle before folding the edges and rolling until the butter is fully encased by the chicken.

Chill to set before breading it by first rolling in seasoned flour, then in beaten eggs before a final roll in panko bread crumps. Chill again before deep frying for 2 – 3 minutes (190°C) until golden; finish in a preheated oven (180°C) for 12 – 15 minutes. Use a meat thermometer to make sure the chicken is cooked through or until internal temperature of the chicken is 65C°.  Be careful when you check it with a probe as you don’t want undo your hard work by letting the butter ooze out.

Step 2 – make your own spiced mayonnaise to go with the chips, a food processor will make an easy job of this

Step 3 – Grill your Ciabatta or sliced sourdough bread. I will use a crunchy bread so it can absorb and hold the melted butter without falling apart

Step 4 – lightly dress some fresh salad. This is the one time you can get away with an undressed salad as the melted butter is already packed full of flavour.

Step 5 – Assemble your burger with the salad, topped with the chicken and another layer of salad. I usually have pickled vegetables so I would add a bit for some extra tanginess.

Enjoy with several napkins as you will definitely need them to wipe the oozing wild garlic butter from your chin and any left over drips on the plate would be perfect for mopping with your chips.

This weekend, I am at the BBC Good Food show in Birmingham. I am next at the Harrogate Food Festival on the 24 June so hope to see you there.

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Knaresborough chamber president hits out at ‘anti-BID activists’

Steve Teggin has criticised “anti-bid activists” as he steps down as president of Knaresborough Chamber of Trade.

In a letter he described as “frank and honest” to businesses ahead of the chamber’s AGM tomorrow, Mr Teggin said he felt “totally shamed and embarrassed” by the activists in the wake of the vote against setting up a Business Improvement District.

He said he had “failed” the town by not delivering the BID and said a small minority opposed to it had infected others.

The letter said:

“I should have steered the BID working group and task force in a much more positive way particularly when it came to dealing with trolls and anti-bidders, allowing this very small minority of businesses that only want to take and not give back to infect others.”

Mr Teggin, who has been chamber president since 2015 and a member since the 1970s, said he had delayed his retirement as president in the hope of helping to establish a BID and securing a “great trading future” for Knaresborough.

Instead he said he would leave the chamber “with a divided business community who will have no representation for the whole of the businesses in our town.”

80-73 votes against BID

The vote to create a BID, which would have seen businesses pay a compulsory levy to support initiatives that increased footfall in the town, was lost by 80 votes to 73. Harrogate and Ripon traders have both voted in favour of setting up BIDs.

The benefits of a BID, said Mr Teggin’s letter said, would have included:

“Not just saving our market but to expand it, help finance our now extinct tourist information hub, support our endangered library etc, all of which and much more for the cost of which is the equivalence to a couple of cups of coffee a week.”

He said the voices of those against it were louder than those in favour and other businesses were taken in by them. He added:

“I have been totally shamed and embarrassed by this group who along with fellow business owners we will have to depend on to represent our town traders so what does the future hold?”

“Not the way to bring the town together”

Natalie Horner, from printers Sid Horner and Son, had previously raised concerns about the BID. In response to the letter she said:

“That letter was not the way to bring the town together to move forward.

“Knaresborough did not want a BID and we are not a struggling town as it is made out we are, business is better than ever and we will be perfectly fine moving forward and have much more to offer as a town than those with Bids so personally I am not concerned.”

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Ian Gill, owner of independent bar Six Poor Folk, said:

“I’m committed to this town, and I voted for the BID because it was my contribution to see the town develop further. I am sad we didn’t get it, but business will continue and the town will go on as it did before.”

Mr Teggin had been due to retire two years ago but stayed on during the pandemic, but now, at 67, he said he felt it was the right time to step down.

He insists he will still be involved in the town and the Chamber but will take on a “behind the scenes” roll.

Knaresborough’s landlords nervous and excited to reopen

Pubs and restaurants in Knaresborough reopened today after months of lockdown. Landlords were feeling “quite anxious but a little bit excited too”.

Knaresborough’s pubs were beginning to fill up around lunchtime but many saw fewer numbers than the same time pre-lockdown.

The town’s pubs were offering drinks and foods on a mainly pre-booked system, with walk-ins allowed if there was space. Many of the landlords had to reduce seating and menus to accommodate current guidelines, but all of them were excited to finally reopen their doors.

Tony Robb, one of the landlords at Mother Shipton Inn, said:

“I’m feeling a bit nervous we just wanted to make sure everything was in place with the tables and sanitiser. We’ve got plenty of space but we’ve still taken a few seats away. We’ve been looking forward to it though, we’ve been waiting for this day. I think people want to get back to some normality and get out and socialise.”

Sam Small from the Mother Shipton Inn, added:

“Its a complicated feeling, I’m quite anxious but a little bit excited too. We just want to make sure everyone feels safe, we’ve done everything we can. Its quiet for this evening but looking good for tomorrow. I don’t think its going to take off straight away but I’d rather it was a little steady.

Owner Ashleigh Lambert turning over the open sign for her restaurant in Knaresborough.

Turning over the open sign came with much excitement this afternoon, as pubs and restaurants prepared to serve once again.

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Ashleigh Lambert, owner of Six Poor Folk said:

“We’re open and it’s lovely. It’s taken a lot to get to this point and it’ll be nice to see our regulars again. We’ve got quite a lot of bookings for this afternoon, and then we’re fully booked from 6pm. It’s just getting used to the different measures, hopefully it’ll all come together.”

Customers were also pleased to return to their local pub, Gary Stafford has been waiting to return to Mother Shipton Inn. He said:

“We’ve been waiting for this day its just great to come back, I feel very comfortable. I missed just being able to chat to someone a bit different.”