Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in last year’s BBC TV’s Masterchef  competition. Every Saturday Yemi will be writing on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food  and sharing cooking tips– please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.

 

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I finally got a chance to visit Three’s A Crowd in Harrogate and for a weekday evening, the venue was buzzing with diners having a great time. People popped in for quick meals with friends and family; it was obvious the venue is popular with locals.

I started with Bonne Maman cocktail which had sea buckthorn - a new flavour for me - apple juice, lemon juice and strawberry jam. This was a delicious surprise with the slight bitter edge perfectly balancing the sweetness of the strawberry jam. This is definitely a mocktail to check out.

With two menus to choose from and the daily special which included beef wellington, crispy pork tonkatsu and Ramsden house made sausages with pomme puree, red onion gravy and bacon jam cabbage, there were enough options for all.

My starter was braised pork cheeks which was tender as can be, Bury black pudding, pearl barley stew and confit egg yolk with pickled shallots to cut through the dish.

This is a welcome autumn dish that is generously portioned with a good balance of richness, umami and sharpness from the rich dark sauce and pickled shallots which had some sweetness. The vegetables in the stew still had the right bite to them.

My main was the wild stone bass, chargrilled courgette, pickled mussels, fennel, and roast shellfish espuma. This dish had great smokiness to it that was reminiscent of cooking on open fire which I love. The char from the fish skin and courgette was beautiful; on the fish, you had the slightest bitterness and from the courgettes, you got the juices bursting with sweetness. The shellfish espuma was light and had the sweetness you would expect from it.



Wild stone bass, chargrilled courgette, pickled mussels, fennel, and roast shellfish espuma

This was a dish with character and imagination with the slow roasted caramelised tomatoes bringing in sweetness and tartness.

The lamb Henry would be right up the street of those who love classical cuisine with delicately sweet and juicy hispi cabbage, goats cheese croquettes with tang and crunchiness, rich dark sauce, smoky piquillo peppers and a sweet red pepper puree.

The lamb was tender with the fat well rendered and the exterior was crispy in a good way. The whole experience was reminiscent of eating a barbecue dish paired with classical flavours and techniques.

Dessert is meant to be the highlight of a meal as it is often the final and lingering memory the diner has and the saffron and wildflower honey crème brulee with malt crumble and Raspberry sorbet was a true highlight.

The sorbet was refreshing with malty notes that reminded me of the malt drinks of my childhood. I couldn’t resist sniffing the aroma of saffron coming from the crème brûlée and the taste of the wild flower honey could only be matched by the vibrant yellow colour. With a hint of bitterness, this is a dessert I can’t wait to eat again and attempt to recreate.

The restaurant features crowd pleasing menus such as fish and chips which was popular with diners and desserts including choux bun, sticky toffee puddings, panna cotta, chocolate mousse and cheese boards.

Three's a Crowd was welcoming and I had a great time there. The manager on duty, Karol and his team offered prompt and friendly service and all hands were on deck as they made sure everyone was looked after.

Want a good value meal out? Restaurants across the Harrogate district will be offering discount deals this coming week, when Visit Harrogate Restaurant Week returns.   The deals run from Monday, October 9, to Sunday, October 15. 

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