Harrogate jewellery expert, Susan Rumfitt, has sold a rare brooch at auction for around three times its guide price.
Ms Rumfitt, who has written a column for the Stray Ferret and is an expert for the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, sold an intricate micro-mosaic theatrical mask brooch by Castellani of Rome for £80,600.
The piece had been listed under a guide price of £20,000 to £30,000.
Ms Rumfitt said:
“Items crafted by Castellani are a few and far between at auction, so our sale presented a very rare opportunity for collectors to acquire this delightful brooch.
“The house of Castellani is famed for its archaeological-revival designs in gold, gemstone and mosaic, and it was a privilege to share this brooch. The auction saw passionate bidding, with clients from across the globe taking part.”
Made in around 1850 and depicting Bacchus, the brooch reproduces part of a 3rd Century AD mosaic now in the Capitoline Museums portraying theatrical masks which decorated the Thermae Decianae.
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Susan Rumfitt
For the past decade Ms Rumfitt has focussed on her showroom in Harrogate. Her return to the auction house is in collaboration with Dore & Rees auctioneers in Frome, Somerset.
Ms Rumfitt said:
“The first sale this week was vibrant and exciting, and I’m absolutely thrilled with the results, especially the fabulous price we achieved for the Castellani brooch.
“The sale as a whole was strong with great interest in Victorian jewellery and also the emerald pieces proved very popular. We are now gathering for our next sale in December with some beautiful pieces already consigned.”
Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Sapphires Aren’t All Blue

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan looks at one of her favourite gemstones: sapphires.
I recently looked at an amazing multi-coloured sapphire bracelet by the Swiss gem suppliers, designers and gemstone laboratory experts Gubelin on the Antiques Roadshow and many clients have been amazed at the variety of different coloured sapphires that were in the bracelet.

A multi coloured sapphire bracelet by Gubelin, circa 1970
Myths, Legends and Famous Stones
Sapphire is from the Greek word Sappheiros meaning blue and was associated with the God Apollo and with celestial power. It is the birthstone for September and is the stone that represents the 45th wedding anniversary. It also symbolises sincerity, truth, faithfulness and nobility. The Greeks and Romans believed that it would protect them from harm and the envy of others.
In our Crown Jewels there is a sapphire set in the Imperial State Crown which weighs 104 carats and is called the Stuart Sapphire. Wallace Simpson, Duchess of Windsor owned an adorable panther brooch made by Cartier in 1949. The leopard is leaning over a 157.35 carat cabochon polished sapphire. It is stunning. In 2011 Christie’s sold the jewellery collection of Elizabeth Taylor and within the collection was a sapphire and diamond necklace by Bulgari which sold for over $5 million.

A blue, yellow and pink sapphire bracelet with aquamarines and diamonds, circa 1950
Colour
The traditional colour of sapphire is of course blue, with a variety of different shades depending upon where the sapphire has originated from. The finest stones are said to originate in Kashmir, Sri Lanka (Ceylon) or Myanmar (Burma) and untreated gems from these regions can command very high prices. Kashmir sapphires are no longer mined as supplies ran out by 1920, so they are particularly sought after. Sapphires from Kashmir and Myanmar tend to be a mid blue with a beautiful velvety appeal. Those from Sri Lanka tend have a cornflower blue colour. Another popular source for sapphires, particularly in the 1970’s and 80’s was South Africa. These tend to be a much darker blue.

A Pink Sapphire and Diamond Ring
The chemical name for sapphire is corundum and the chemical composition is Aluminium Oxide. Each colour is caused by differing chemicals. Blue – iron and titanium; green – iron or iron with titanium; yellow – iron; purple – iron, titanium and chromium; pink – chromium; colour change sapphire which changes from blue to purple – chromium, vanadium, iron and titanium; orange colour is caused by the presence of iron. One of the rarest colours is a peachy colour which is caused by iron and chromium and known as padparadscha.

Detail of peach padparadscha sapphire
What to look for when buying a sapphire
Whatever your preferred colour there are some key factors to take into consideration when buying a stone. Make sure that the colour is uniform throughout the stone. The colour should be bright and lively and have an intensity but not to the point that it looks dark and lifeless. Sapphires are quite hard stones, just below diamond on the official hardness scale, but are prone to chipping and wear. Check that the surface of the stone isn’t badly scratched. Scratches can be polished out, but this does mean the size/carat weight of the stone will be reduced. The internal quality/clarity of the stone is also extremely important. Crystal inclusions are common in gemstones and do add character but the clearer the stone the more valuable it will be. Inclusions can be mesmerising and are particularly fascinating when they form a star effect in the sapphire. This is a result of the light reflecting on inclusions called rutile needles which have formed in a particular way within the sapphire.

A Pair of Victorian Sapphire and diamond Earrings, circa 1880
Next time you notice how blue the sky is, think of the ancient Persians. They believed that the Earth rested on a giant sapphire that turned the sky blue -how fantastic that would be!
Read More:
- Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Art Deco Delights
- Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: the timeless allure of pearls
Newby Hall to feature on Sunday’s Antiques Roadshow
Newby Hall near Ripon will feature in this weekend’s Antiques Roadshow programme on BBC One.
The programme, which will be broadcast at 7pm on Sunday, is the second of two that were filmed at Newby in August last year. The first programme came out on January 31.
Antiques Roadshow attracts about six million viewers, who will see footage of Newby’s house and gardens.
Filming took place in warm sunshine one day and rain and gales the next. Covid restrictions were enforced.

Newby Hall
Presenter Fiona Bruce, who was filming her 13th series of Antiques Roadshow, said after filming she had a “wonderful time at Newby Hall filming some stunning items in the blazing sunshine and pouring rain!”.
She added:
“Our experts have seen some really intriguing and valuable objects and I can’t wait to see the finished programmes.”
Read more:
- Dig out your treasures” Antiques Roadshow comes to Newby Hall
- BBC’s Fiona Bruce on unearthing treasures on the Antiques Road Show
Series editor Robert Murphy said Newby was selected because of its “incredible house, award-winning gardens and collection of stunning Roman statues”.
Richard Compton, Newby Hall’s owner said:
Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: The magic of silver“We are very much looking forward to showing off our beautiful corner of North Yorkshire to all the viewers of this flagship programme.”

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.
In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.
In my new column ‘Stray Jewels’ I will be bringing you the hidden gems of Yorkshire. From auction house highlights and Yorkshire museum treasures to the fabulous pieces I have access to at my gallery and through travels. You will have a first-hand insight into the fantastic world of jewels through The Stray Ferret.
The world of gems and jewels brings with it passion, scandal, history and power, often in equal measures – in fact even if someone doesn’t like wearing jewellery they are often interested in the design, the maker and the story the jewels may have.
As a jewellery specialist on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, I’m often asked ‘how did you get into jewellery?’ The answer to that would be, that it was quite simply by chance and after 25 years, I have never looked back.

A multi-gem set locket.
So how did my career begin?
Summer 1991: work experience at Sotheby’s Harrogate. This was when I knew I wanted to be in the auction world; fuelled by many years watching Love Joy and the Antique’s Roadshow on a Sunday night. There was a buzz in the air – Castle Howard were having an ‘Attic Sale’. I was enthralled by it all. The auction world was for me.
I was just about to start at Reading University to study History of Art and Architecture and as far as I was concerned a career as an Art Specialist was what I was going to pursue. When I graduated, I went on to do a Post Grad degree in Decorative Arts at Glasgow University in association with Christie’s Auctioneers. I found out I still loved art but I was now drawn to the magic of silver. At the end of the course I became a trainee in the Silver Department at Christie’s in Glasgow and was in an office which was shared with the Jewellery Specialist – I became hooked and a career in jewels began.
Would you like Susan to review one of your antique pieces?
Whether its a family heirloom or a piece you bought at an auction, Susan would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to review your jewellery, send her an email to: contact@susanrumfitt.com.
After Christie’s, I went on to work at Phillips Auctioneers. It was intense but utterly exciting. Travelling around the world as well as running my own jewellery department in London. More importantly every day was full of learning about gems and jewels. Despite the excitement I always knew Harrogate was meant to be home. In 2002 I came back to Yorkshire and had three very happy years as the Jewellery Consultant for Tennant’s Auctioneers.
In 2006 I was asked to join the ‘BBC’s Antiques Roadshow’. I had always wondered, could it happen, could I ever be on that programme as a ‘Specialist’? Yes it could happen and it did happen, dreams can come true!
In 2007 I set up ‘The Gallery’ not only as a place from which clients could buy jewellery but as a place in which to hold presentations and share my passion and interest in the history of jewellery. The Gallery has become a place for all to share a love of jewellery. Many people have said The Gallery is itself a gem within the heart of Harrogate. That gem is now brought to you all through The Stray Ferret.
Join me next month when I look at saleroom highlights in the region and consider the world of Emeralds, the stone of love and hope.

A Columbian Emerald ring never fails to please.
Do you have a piece of jewellery you would like to know more about? If so, feel free to contact Susan at contact@susanrumfitt.com. Susan will answer all your enquiries regarding jewellery. Please do not send any information regarding your jewellery by any social media platform.
Find out more about Susan’s career by clicking here.
Dig out your treasures: BBC’s Antiques Roadshow comes to Newby HallBBC One’s Antiques Roadshow has confirmed it will be returning this summer, with Newby Hall named as one of its 8 locations.
Viewers are being asked to contact the Roadshow team with any hidden gems and stories to tell. A form is available on their website where owners can fill out details of their objects.
For the first time in the show’s history, the series will be filmed on a closed set with only a small audience invited. This is to ensure the safety of guests, the production team and the wider public.
Read more:
- Harrogate jewellery expert Susan Rumfitt on being part of the Antiques Roadshow team
- Fascinating facts about the BBC Antiques Roadshow
Presenter Fiona Bruce has been at the forefront of Antiques Roadshow for 13 years.
“Normally we welcome around 5,000 people to each Antiques Roadshow, but of course in these extraordinary times we will have to do things very differently. We’ve come up with a new way to safely film the show yet still bring you amazing items and stories. I can’t wait to see what treasures you have hidden in your homes.”

The Roadshow normally sees around 5,000 visitors at each venue.
The show was first broadcast in 1979 and has since become one of the most popular programmes on BBC One, with around 6 million viewers tuning in every Sunday evening.
Robert Murphy, BBC Studios Series Editor said:
“To keep everybody safe and comply with current government and WHO regulations, we have planned our filming days very differently this year…Our team of experts are looking forward to seeing your heirlooms and finds, so do go to our website and let us know about your treasures.”
Some of the Roadshow’s most remarkable finds have included a hand written document signed by Elizabeth I and a ring containing a lock of author Charlotte Bronte’s hair.
If you have a hidden treasure you wish to uncover, share your story at www.bbc.co.uk/antiquesroadshow.

Newby Hall has been named as one of 8 venues for this summer’s series.
Independent jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt told The Stray Ferret that she is delighted BBC One’s Antiques Road Show is coming to Newby Hall this summer.
Susan joined the team of specialists on the Roadshow in 2006. As well as being on the show, she is also a Freeman of the Goldsmiths’ Company and has her own gallery in Harrogate.
In an interview with The Stray Ferret, Susan reflected on some of her favourite pieces she has seen as well as voicing her excitement for the upcoming show at Newby Hall.
Read more:
- BBC One’s Antiques Roadshow announced Newby Hall as venue
- Fiona Bruce answers questions about her time presenting the Antiques Roadshow
- 10 fascinating facts you didn’t know about the Antiques Roadshow
When asked what it is like to work for the Antiques Roadshow, Susan told The Stray Ferret:
“Working for the show is just great fun and although we are all individual specialists with our own areas of expertise, we work really closely as a team, from production, through to camera men, through to specialists. It’s about everyone putting in 100% to get the effects that everybody sees on the television.”

Susan Rumfitt pictured with a client at Buckfast Abbey.
Despite the current climate, Susan said that the show may look a bit different but will still have the superb Antiques Roadshow charm. She told The Stray Ferret:
“From a clients perspective coming to the show, they will still get the same attention as they normally would do. We are all looking forward to doing it in whatever format we are able to. The fact that it is coming back to Yorkshire at such a beautiful spot will showcase our area so well…I am delighted it is coming to Newby Hall.”
Susan was approached by the team at the Roadshow two years before joining, due to her extensive background in antique jewellery. Since then she has seen a number of fascinating pieces, with one of her favourite’s being a gold bracelet originally belonging to Queen Victoria.
BBC’s Fiona Bruce on unearthing treasures on the Antiques Road ShowThe BBC’s Antiques Road Show is set to come to Newby Hall this summer – sadly the show is closed to the public due to coronavirus.
In this Q and A presenter Fiona Bruce answers some questions about the fun of uncovering hidden treasures and other memorable moments
What has been your personal highlight from working on Antiques Roadshow?
I feel incredibly lucky to have spent the last 13 years working on the Antiques Roadshow. I love doing it and I’ve had so many highlights from over the years. My personal favourite would probably have to be when a man of the cloth turned up with a painting, which he thought might be a Van Dyck. I looked at it – and I was making a programme about Van Dyck at the time – and I thought it had the look of the genuine article. And so we had it examined and my hunch turned out to be right. It has been proven to be the case and it is now being exhibited as a Van Dyck. I can’t imagine that will ever happen to me again in my lifetime and it’s definitely a highlight for me.
Why do you think the show continues to be so popular?
I think it’s amazing that the Antiques Roadshow is essentially the same as it has been for more than four decades and it’s still hugely popular. What makes it eternally popular is probably what I love about it – that we all hope that we could have something gathering dust on the mantelpiece or in the attic that either turns out to be very valuable, or has an amazing story. It happens week-in, week-out and you’d think that the well would begin to run dry and it hasn’t. We still find amazing things every week. You can never predict what will turn up once a visitor brought along a vanity set that had been on Donald Trump’s yacht. It was as tasteful and restrained as you might expect – that’s to say it was fabulously bling.
What is your earliest memory of the Antiques Roadshow?
I still remember watching Antiques Roadshow as a child with my parents, on a Sunday night, sitting in our 1970s living room. I gradually came back to it as an adult and then I was asked to present it which I had no idea was coming! I was absolutely thrilled. It’s not often that you get asked to work on a programme you’ve watched for so long and genuinely watch at home.
Read more:
- Fascinating facts you may not know about the Roadshow
- Susan Rumfitt says Newby Hall is a “superb venue” for the show
Has any of the experts’ knowledge rubbed off on you?
I’ve certainly learnt more about antiques. I have my own collections. I have paintings. I collect things called “samplers” which are Victorian pieces of needlework usually done by children in a workhouse to show that they have a skill, which can be used in service, stitching household linen or that kind of thing. I think they’re very humble and very beautiful. But our experts are like walking Wikipedias! They’re incredible. And they just fish knowledge out of their brains, which is a marvel to behold.
What is the most surprising item someone has brought to a valuation day?
If I had to pick the most unusual thing that’s turned up in the time that I’ve been working on the show – could it be the man that turned up with an case full of loo chains, just a small sample of his collection? Could it be the man that turned up not once, but twice with a foetal membrane dried onto a piece of A4 paper that had belonged to his great-grandfather. It’s called a “caul” and it used to be a talisman against drowning and it used to have some value! Or could it be the lady who brought along a potty that had a picture of Hitler on the bottom and when you did a little “tinkle” into it, it played its own little tune. And because it was rare, I think it was worth over £1000 from memory.
What are your most memorable moments whilst working on the series?
Some of the most moving stories stick in my mind, many I will never forget, such as the man who brought along a set of GI medals from the Second World War. His story began with his finding a cache of love letters written to his mother by an American GI who had had an affair with her while his father was away serving in the Second World War.
The letters revealed that his mother had had a baby with this man and it became apparent to him that he was that child. He tracked down the GI’s family in Virginia who welcomed him with open arms and filled in the gaps. They told him that his father had agreed to forgive the infidelity and bring the baby up as his own – and indeed loved him as such all his life – and the American GI decided reluctantly to stay away so as not to make a delicate situation even more difficult. The GI’s descendants knew all about the baby being brought up in Britain and were thrilled to meet him at last. It was a very moving experience for all of them.
The man came to the Roadshow with his American GI father’s war medals, which the family had decided should go to his newly discovered son. As the man told me this story he was moved to tears – and who can blame him?

Fiona Bruce pictured outside Castle Howard.
Is there anywhere that you still yearn to take Antiques Roadshow to?
New Zealand! We would find extraordinary things there; I’m sure from antiques belonging to British settlers to Maori culture.
What are your hopes for the future of Antiques Roadshow?
That it continues to be as popular as it is now, continues to find extraordinary items and continues to have a place in people’s hearts.
Tea pots and glass bottles: fascinating facts about the BBC’s Antiques RoadshowThis summer BBC One’s Antiques Roadshow will be returning to our screens, with Newby Hall named as one of the eight venues.
This will be the roadshows 43rd series, but the show may look a little different to previous years due to measures put in place. For Fiona Bruce, this is her 13th year presenting the show.
Read more:
- Fiona Bruce answers questions about her time presenting the Roadshow
- Jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt reflects on her time on Antiques Roadshow
Here are 10 fascinating facts you may not know about Antiques Roadshow:
- There have been five hosts of Antiques Roadshow; Bruce Parker, Angela Rippon, Hugh Scully, Michael Aspel and Fiona Bruce.
- The Roadshow has featured many celebrity owned objects; a diamond bracelet from Rita Hayworth, Marc Bolan’s guitar, even a loo roll rejected for use by the Beatles. A jacket once worn by JFK and valued on the show for £2-3,00,000 will come up for sale in the USA soon.
- Legend has it that the greatest let down in Roadshow history was the evaluation of a glass bottle which the owner had paid handsomely for but was in fact an olive oil bottle from Tesco. The embarrassment was not shared on camera.
- The highest audience figure for an Antiques Roashow was 15 million in the 1990’s. Even today a loyal 6 million regularly watch the show.
- Perhaps the most moving object seen on the series is a small ring that was kept hidden under the tongue of Zedenka Fantlova who survived four concentration camps in World War II.
- Graffiti artist Banksy’s donation to a Bristol boys club was valued by Rupert Maas and was later sold for more than £400,000 to a private collector.
- The Roadshow has visited numerous international venues including Canada, Australia and major European cities. Even at the Australian events the Roadshow’s most dedicated follower, John Dallimore, clocked up the 9,500 miles to attend.
- An important lost work by artist Richard Dadd came to light at the Roadshow in 1986. It was eventually sold to the British Museum for £100,000
- A family teapot brought in by avid Roadshow fan Norah Ambrose during the programmes early years proved a life changing moment when she bought her council house on the proceeds of the sale.
- Between 15 and 20,000 items are scanned at each show by the experts from which 50 are filmed for inclusion in the two shows made at each location.
The team at Antiques Roadshow invite you to uncover your hidden treasures for this summer’s series at Newby Hall. To get in contact, visit www.bbc.co.uk/antiquesroadshow.

The Antiques Roadshow normally welcomes thousands of visitors to each venue.