While huge turkeys have traditionally been the main centrepiece of the family Christmas dinner, many are now opting for smaller, more convenient versions.

And some are even ditching the turkey altogether.

I spoke to Rachael Hirst at Wetherby-based butchers Sykes House Farm, which supplies meat and poultry to restaurants, cafes and homes across the Harrogate district, about what it’s like to operate during the hectic run-up to Christmas.

This year has been particularly busy for the team, with the business now offering both trade and e-commerce following a boom in online trading as a result of the pandemic.

Founder Martin Smith, with daughter Rachael Hirst and son Robert

Rachael, who runs the third generation family business with her brother Robert Smith, said:

“It has been really hard work this year, as we have got trade and e-commerce, together with a lack of staff.”

The team also has to adapt to the changing needs of customers at Christmas time.

Rachael said:

“Our turkeys are herb-fed poultry and we have loads of different sizes lots to choose from.

“A lot of people are choosing not to get whole birds this year, as people are finding the bones a bit of a faff.

“People’s needs and trends keep changing and we therefore don’t always know what to buy.

“We have to buy it in July in order to raise those birds to have in December. So it’s a bit of a punt every year.”

In November Sykes House Farm, which supplies to the likes of William & Victoria, Betty’s, Three’s a Crowd and Gianni’s Brio, in Harrogate, had already sold 50% of its turkey stock of 300. This was despite them only going on sale at the end of October.

Rachael said:

“Everyone was ringing up non-stop thinking there is going to be a turkey shortage.”

However, she added that many people this year had moved on to ribs of beef and stuffed pork.

She said:

“The tradition of turkey has gone away a bit. The turkey famers do all wonder why turkey is just for Christmas. Eating turkey at Christmas has come from America.

“We do individual portions, like the little turkey parcels, which are like what is sold in restaurants. They are wrapped in bacon and stuffed with cranberry and sage. So if you only have four people coming, you could get four of those rather than having to buy a big turkey, which is what quite a few people have done this year.

“People’s shopping habits have totally changed. However, beef is always really popular at Christmas. We sell more at Christmas than any other time of the year.”

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Rachael puts the change in shopping habits down to people cooking more in lockdown and therefore wanting more variety in their dishes.

She said:

“A lot of chefs were born at home due to lockdown, so I just think people have got more inventive. As a result we have found that people who come in the shop are asking for totally different things.

“For example ox cheeks have become a thing. All the offal – pigs cheeks things like that – are very popular on menus now.”

When it comes to Christmas people are still ordering turkeys alongside beef and pork, however many are now opting for an easier option to save time in the kitchen.

Rachael said:

“People have been ordering the most of stuffed lattice turkey breasts for sure.

“They still want the turkey, but without the hassle of the bird in the oven. And it visually looks really nice because of the lattice on top.

“They don’t have to do stuffing as well, because it’s inside it. It’s a shortcut but it still gives you the Christmas dinner and it’s easy to carve.

“Everybody also loves pigs in blankets and people seem to order more and more every year. We sell them on trays of 20, which is quite a large number, and if you’re a family of six we would expect you to just have a tray – but people ask for two.”

Another alternative that is popular, according to Rachael, is a turkey ballotine, a boneless turkey breast, which has a partridge or pheasant inside it and then a duck or pigeon inside that.

She said:

“It’s a gamey three bird roast. They are really popular. People don’t want the faff of doing those at home. It’s quite time consuming making them. It takes 20 minutes per one. We do everything onsite. All the prep.”

Turkey ballotine

This article is sponsored by Farmison & Co.

New Click & Collect service creates biggest virtual meat counter in the world.

Farmison & Co butchers has opened a new shop on Bondgate Green in Ripon, with a Click & Collect service and free, dedicated parking while you visit. Farmison & Co also offers a huge online range that would need the longest meat counter in the world to display it all.

Britain’s online butcher of the year is piloting its first physical location in North Yorkshire because it sees an opportunity to grow the concept as a concession in high-quality food retailers here in the UK and overseas, that share its passion for better meat.

They’re giving you an exclusive opportunity to be one of the first to shop at cut by Farmison & Co. Get £10 off your first order, when you spend £20 or more* using the code STEAK10.

Shop instore, buy online or click & collect

As much an experience as a shop, Cut is designed to showcase the crown jewels of Yorkshire heritage breed meat and allow customers to select from Farmison & Co’s extensive online range and collect within an hour of placing an order.

Whether you’re rustling up a roast, fancy a quick and easy meal or firing up a last-minute barbecue, this meat will be the talk of the table. The luscious quality simply speaks for itself, especially when paired with chef-prepared blends of spices, seasonings, and marinades.

Farmison & Co’s game-changing ‘saucepan ready™’ range will transform your mealtimes. Ready in minutes, these pouches are the easy way to eat better meat, and just the ticket for pairing with cupboard staples. There are four dishes to choose from; traditional lamb hotpot, authentic chilli con carne, creamy tikka masala, and rich & full bodied beef ragu. Each boasts generous chunks of free range meat.

Cut will be open seven days a week, from 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday and 9.30am-12 noon on Sundays, and a knowledgeable Master Butcher and staff will be on hand to give tips and advice on how to prepare meat and follow recipes devised by Farmison & Co’s in-house Michelin starred chef, Jeff Baker. We understand that trying a new cut can be daunting, so Farmison & Co go the extra mile to help.

The former Greenwood butchers shop in Boroughbridge is to be sold by auction next week.

The butchers on Horsefair in the centre of the town was popular for its range of pies and local meats. It is believed to have closed last year.

The 19th century building, which has a guide price of £50,000, includes a retail area, storage rooms and bathroom.

The auction house Pugh says the building could be used for a variety of uses.

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Paul Thompson, managing director of Pugh, said:

“It’s always sad to see a local business close. Boroughbridge is a fantastic community with excellent road links to most of the north of England and there is definitely potential for a variety of business uses for the former Greenwood premises.

“It would be great to see the property become an asset to the town once more in the hands of an imaginative new owner.”

The shop will be sold in Pugh’s next online property auction on 24 February.

Appleton’s Butchers is opening a new shop in Knaresborough on August 18.

The shop will be the fifth Appleton’s in Yorkshire – with others in Ripon, Boroughbridge, Wetherby and York. The shop will create new employment opportunities and encourage people to shop locally.

The butchers chain was established in Ripon in 1867 and is famous for its handmade pork pies.

The Knaresborough premises just off Market Place have taken over four years to renovate. Unforeseen circumstances caused the opening to be delayed.

Owners Anthony and Isabel Sterne have continued to operate throughout lockdown to support the local communities. Mr Sterne said:

“We are so excited to be joining the Knaresborough community and look forward to welcoming local residents, who have been hugely patient whilst we have redeveloped the shop.

“Although currently we’re not allowed to have a big opening event, we will be inviting suppliers and friends on an appointment basis, so we are able to comply with social distancing measures.”

The flagship shop in Ripon is popular with local residents and the company hopes the new shop in Knaresborough will be the same.

Read more:

• Knaresborough Chamber of Trade publishes survey displaying the impact of coronavirus on local businesses. 
• A lockdown pop-up became so successful the owners set up a permanent shop. 

Martin Sterne, manager of the renovation project, said:

“The medieval back wall was bowing out and the whole building was in danger of collapse.

“The ancient timber frame was in a serious state of disrepair. We were committed to sourcing materials that were in keeping with the original ones. Part of the building dates back to the 17th century, so it was hugely important to us that it retained its character and integrity.”