Stray Foodie: Taste of India in central Harrogate

This article is sponsored by Deliveree

 

Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, Frances visits Cardamom Black in central Harrogate.

 

 

 

Having spent four consecutive years in India cooking with some of the world’s greatest chefs at sophisticated dinners for charity, I came to marvel at the joy of their cuisine.

The combination of texture, colour and warmth is unique. Personally, I tend to err away from very hot and spicy foods, having considered them in the past to kill flavour. I have been wrong. It is all about technique and I would go so far as to say there isn’t another country that produces such flavour in their food made from very little.

So it was with great pleasure that I dined at Cardamom Black in Harrogate with friends. I was at first in awe of the size of the menu! Suitable for everyman’s palate but hard to execute, but they did it.

Whether you want a quick curry after a good night out, British style or you are wanting a more academic supper, it is there for the asking. Being into the creation of Vegan and Vegetarian food at the moment I decided to go with their sensational platter of vegetables. Stuffed, fried and unique – all my party had a great time sampling these delicacies.

My friends had two chicken dishes, one mild and one hot, they were very different and once again all down to the seasoning. The preparation of the rice to accompany them was sensational. One with Lime and Coriander and one with Tamarind. Beautiful flavour. The only slight difficulty I might have had was getting all these flavours together to compliment the chosen dish. It took some degree of concentration.  Having said that, the true Indian style of service was friendly and informative and made you feel at ease.

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I listened to another guest on the night we were there who boasted he had tried every dish on the menu!  He must have been going there for a very long time and he was a very happy man! 

Like all my Indian experiences, Cardamom Black reflects colour, warmth and happiness.

Well worth a visit. All taking place in a converted Methodist Church and theatre. It certainly takes central stage in Harrogate.

Star Rating: 4. This is a place to watch!

Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise  at Daleside Nurseries.

 

 

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‘It’s no longer all about the traditional turkey at Christmas’, says butcher

While huge turkeys have traditionally been the main centrepiece of the family Christmas dinner, many are now opting for smaller, more convenient versions.

And some are even ditching the turkey altogether.

I spoke to Rachael Hirst at Wetherby-based butchers Sykes House Farm, which supplies meat and poultry to restaurants, cafes and homes across the Harrogate district, about what it’s like to operate during the hectic run-up to Christmas.

This year has been particularly busy for the team, with the business now offering both trade and e-commerce following a boom in online trading as a result of the pandemic.

Founder Martin Smith, with daughter Rachael Hirst and son Robert

Rachael, who runs the third generation family business with her brother Robert Smith, said:

“It has been really hard work this year, as we have got trade and e-commerce, together with a lack of staff.”

The team also has to adapt to the changing needs of customers at Christmas time.

Rachael said:

“Our turkeys are herb-fed poultry and we have loads of different sizes lots to choose from.

“A lot of people are choosing not to get whole birds this year, as people are finding the bones a bit of a faff.

“People’s needs and trends keep changing and we therefore don’t always know what to buy.

“We have to buy it in July in order to raise those birds to have in December. So it’s a bit of a punt every year.”

In November Sykes House Farm, which supplies to the likes of William & Victoria, Betty’s, Three’s a Crowd and Gianni’s Brio, in Harrogate, had already sold 50% of its turkey stock of 300. This was despite them only going on sale at the end of October.

Rachael said:

“Everyone was ringing up non-stop thinking there is going to be a turkey shortage.”

However, she added that many people this year had moved on to ribs of beef and stuffed pork.

She said:

“The tradition of turkey has gone away a bit. The turkey famers do all wonder why turkey is just for Christmas. Eating turkey at Christmas has come from America.

“We do individual portions, like the little turkey parcels, which are like what is sold in restaurants. They are wrapped in bacon and stuffed with cranberry and sage. So if you only have four people coming, you could get four of those rather than having to buy a big turkey, which is what quite a few people have done this year.

“People’s shopping habits have totally changed. However, beef is always really popular at Christmas. We sell more at Christmas than any other time of the year.”

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Rachael puts the change in shopping habits down to people cooking more in lockdown and therefore wanting more variety in their dishes.

She said:

“A lot of chefs were born at home due to lockdown, so I just think people have got more inventive. As a result we have found that people who come in the shop are asking for totally different things.

“For example ox cheeks have become a thing. All the offal – pigs cheeks things like that – are very popular on menus now.”

When it comes to Christmas people are still ordering turkeys alongside beef and pork, however many are now opting for an easier option to save time in the kitchen.

Rachael said:

“People have been ordering the most of stuffed lattice turkey breasts for sure.

“They still want the turkey, but without the hassle of the bird in the oven. And it visually looks really nice because of the lattice on top.

“They don’t have to do stuffing as well, because it’s inside it. It’s a shortcut but it still gives you the Christmas dinner and it’s easy to carve.

“Everybody also loves pigs in blankets and people seem to order more and more every year. We sell them on trays of 20, which is quite a large number, and if you’re a family of six we would expect you to just have a tray – but people ask for two.”

Another alternative that is popular, according to Rachael, is a turkey ballotine, a boneless turkey breast, which has a partridge or pheasant inside it and then a duck or pigeon inside that.

She said:

“It’s a gamey three bird roast. They are really popular. People don’t want the faff of doing those at home. It’s quite time consuming making them. It takes 20 minutes per one. We do everything onsite. All the prep.”

Turkey ballotine