Yemi’s Food Stories: A visit to Rudding Park’s kitchen garden

Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in last year’s BBC TV’s Masterchef  competition. Every Saturday Yemi will be writing on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food  and sharing cooking tips– please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.  

 

If you are looking for recommendations for a place to go for a special occasion, spa or golf days or an amazing meal, Rudding Park hotel always makes the list and quite often is at the top of the list. It’s the reason my 49th birthday celebration was there.

Multi award winning Rudding Park, set amongst 300 acres of beautiful landscaped gardens and woodland with stunning sculptural pieces, is one of the most beautiful hotels in Harrogate offering 90 stylish bedrooms, award winning spa, three AA Rosette Horto Restaurant, and two AA Rosette Clocktower Restaurant, kitchen garden, gym, private cinema, golf course and events venue.

With a Best Fine Dining Restaurant amongst its many awards, I was intrigued by the kitchen garden, which plays a key role in making great dishes happen.

Horto Restaurant offers contemporary fine dining using ingredients from Rudding Park Kitchen Garden with the menu prescribed by nature, the creativity of the chef and the skill of the gardener.

Spending the day with Emma Pugh, kitchen gardener, was eye opening. I was impressed by the pivot from her previous career as a physiotherapist to becoming a gardener, from lifting limbs to lifting plant pots and helping them to grow or recover. Her passion for nurturing and growing things shone through.

Working closely with the chefs, the gardeners influence their dishes by supplying them with in-season produces or growing new plants for fresh ideas and they reward their hard work by creating stunning dishes for the guests who enjoy the results of this collaboration.

There was so much to learn about the different plants that were in season with my mind blown by many varieties of produces that are out there. There were plants that Emma was still learning about and some she was growing for the first time.

I loved tasting the different plants to identify the flavours, notes and coming up with ideas on how they might be used for a sweet or savoury dish with some drawing raised eyebrows and different facial expressions from Emma.

Yemi and Emma Pugh at Rudding ParkYemi and Emma exploring the kitchen garden

I discovered Orach which reminded me of Swiss chard but with a slightly salty taste, and can be used to replace spinach in recipes or stuffed like cabbage leaves. I love cooking coarsely blended red peppers, onions, chilli and garlic with olive oil and seasonings until all the water is evaporated and the sauce is well fried releasing all the oils before adding my spinach.

Spinach releases a lot of water when cooked so to reduce this, I rub the leaves with some coarse sea salt to draw out the moisture before rinsing and squeezing out the juices. Orach would work really well in this recipe.

I was introduced to ying-yang beans, and red and green borlotti beans which I had only ever seen the canned versions before.

Sweet Sicily was an interesting herb to taste with the seeds, leaves, flowers, and roots all edible. The young leaves would bring a fresh taste to a salad and can be added to sauces whilst the root can be used as a sweetener. The flavour profile reminded me of fennel, anise seed and liquorice.

This plant would make for a nourishing cup of tea with health properties that are said to help with asthma, breathing problems, digestion issues, cough, chest and throat infections and urinary tract infections.

Sea Kale and Okahijiki (land sea weed) were plants that I had never used before and found them eye-opening. Okahijiki is often used for sushi, and can be added to a salad to introduce pops of saltiness and it would pair well with fish and white meat. I would suggest adding them to sauces just before serving so the crisp texture is retained. I reckon the pops of light saltiness they provide would provide contrast and relief from overly rich and sweet sauces.

I love showcasing colours in my food and cooking with chillies and peppers in many of my sweet and savoury dishes so I was particularly excited to see Hungarian black and purple peppers. I will definitely attempt to grow some of these to elevate the colour and flavour profiles of my dishes.

I left Rudding Kitchen Garden with my head full of new ideas for sweet and savoury dishes, herbs and garnishes. From blue Kuri squashes, butterfly sorrel, purple sage, blackcurrant sage and apple marigold which I think would make great dessert flavours to the weird and wacky looking ice plant.

Nature and great produces inspire chefs to curate new, exciting and delicious menus creating award winning dining experiences. This and so much more is what is waiting for you at Rudding Park hotel.

Next week, I will be writing about my day at Betty’s Cookery School.

I’m also checking out Samira Effa’s new menu at Bar & Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall and going behind the scenes at Dutch Barn Orchard Vodka, so look out for these posts in the coming weeks.

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Stray Gardener: Cool Cucurbits

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight.

Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. 

 

If you have the room, courgettes, pumpkins and squashes are well worth growing, producing tasty fruit with a variety of uses in the kitchen. May is the perfect time to get these plants growing.

Why not grow pumpkins for lanterns at Halloween? Any pumpkin variety will do, with ‘Jack O’ Lantern’ being a good option if you want the authentic orange skin. Squashes are a much better option for cooking as they have a very sweet, full flavour. ‘Crown Prince’, ‘Honey Boat’ and ‘Harrier’ are all varieties that I have tried with great success, even if I do say so myself!

Squash plants can be grown up frames

Pumpkins and squash do need a bit of room to grow, but are fantastic for covering areas of soil to keep down weeds, so if you have an area of ground you struggle to keep under control, this may be the option. However, for smaller areas they are great for growing up trellis or supports, especially a variety called ‘Uchiki Kuri’, a very decorative squash that also tastes fantastic.

Courgettes don’t tend to trail, so can be a good option for a smaller garden or for a container on the patio, producing large amounts of fruit from one plant. Cultivars such as ‘Midnight’, ‘Defender’ and the yellow ‘Gold Rush’ are a good option for containers and the open ground.

Cold frames are useful to harden off plants ready for planting out

Seeds are best sown inside in early May on their sides and singly in pots or large module trays, and planted out in late May/early June. Any earlier and they could be damaged by late frosts and bad weather. It’s advisable to harden them off gradually before planting out. A cold frame or other container that can be covered over at night will do. As long as they are all planted in good, moisture retentive compost or well-rotted manure, and are kept well-watered and fed, you can’t go too far wrong.

It’s a good idea to protect with cloches when first planted to guard against frost and cool weather. They also need to be protected against slugs when first planted.

Recycled factory lampshade used as a cloche for protecting the planted squash

Five more tips and tricks for your garden in May:

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