An extravagant dame, a wicked villain, high jinks and many an excitable child: it must be pantomime season.

Harrogate Theatre’s 2023 show is the thigh-slapping, side-splitting Dick Whittington, and it’s another swashbuckler for the panto lovers out there.

Spirited, sparkling and silly, the tale of Dick Whittington’s adventure to London and beyond makes for the perfect panto plot with bountiful boisterous frolics. The fun-loving cast is infectiously energetic, indulging its audience in a couple of hours of folly and fancy.

The youngest audience members, many dressed up for the occasion, had a ball, singing, dancing and revelling in their participation – especially the many opportunities to shout, boo and hiss.

The grown-ups don’t miss out, with gags to tickle even the weariest parent, and the panto is Harrogate through and through, with mention of local politics aplenty. A rendition of The Twelve Days of Christmas doubles up as an advert for many of the town’s local specialties, from Weeton’s hampers to Taylors tea and Pizza Parada.

Set changes are as frequent as the dame’s outfit swaps, and the whole stage is awash with colour, glitter and merriment. A true variety performance, the show is jam-packed with audience interaction, runabouts, singalongs and slapstick humour, and sprinkled with cheeky twists on popular songs, covering everything from Elton John to Harry Styles.

The brilliantly rambunctious Michael Lambourne as the evil King Rat delivered two of my personal favourites: These Claws Are Made for Walking and a rip-roaring rendition of Rat Out of Hell.

As the countdown to Christmas begins, Harrogate Theatre’s custard-pie-covered, water-pistol-soaked, fairy-dusted panto is just the way to get into the spirit. Oh yes, it is!

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Pic:

Lauren Crisp is a book editor, writer and keen follower of arts and culture. Born and raised in Harrogate, Lauren recently moved back to North Yorkshire after a stint in London, where she regularly reviewed theatre – everything from big West End shows to small fringe productions. She is now eager to explore the culture on offer in and around her home town.  You can contact Lauren on laurencrispwriter@gmail.com. 

It’s the Yorkshire tale we all know and love: the remarkable story of a group of ladies in a small Women’s Institute in the Dales, who, after the death of one member’s husband, and wanting to raise money for the hospital that cared for him, did what no WI had ever done before. They produced a nude calendar. Twenty-five years on, the women have raised an incredible £6 million for Blood Cancer UK.

The story was shared with the world in 2003 with the release of a major film, Calendar Girls, featuring Helen Mirren, Julie Walters and a slew of other big names. It was followed by a stage adaptation in 2008 with the same writer, Tim Firth, at its helm.

The newer musical production, now on tour across the country, is a fresh take entirely and a collaboration between Firth and long-term friend, Take That’s Gary Barlow. I was lucky enough to experience the result of this perfect partnership at Leeds Grand Theatre last night.

The two writers’ skills combine to create something totally magnificent. Barlow’s lyrics and melodies elevate the piece to a whole new level: it is as if it was always intended to have a soundtrack. And, to deliver the magic to the stage: an all-star cast of music, television and theatre talent, including Maureen Nolan of the Nolan Sisters and Lyn Paul from the New Seekers.

Eastenders’ Tanya Franks plays the newly widowed Annie beautifully; her rendition of Kilimanjaro, in which she mourns the everyday struggles of grief, is truly heart-breaking. Amy Robbins, of Coronation Street fame, is extraordinarily entertaining as Annie’s best friend, Chris.

Tanya Franks as Annie. Pic: Alex Harvey-Brown

And it really doesn’t end there: every single cast member performs with such life and understanding, their lyrics delivered with meaning and purpose. Each character has her moment, with her own challenge to overcome, from the process of ageing and worries over children, to cheating spouses and turning to the bottle.

I cried with laughter and with sadness; the whole production filled me with an unbridled joy that reminded me why I love theatre. Poignancy, comedy, bittersweet beauty, wrapped up so effortlessly like a present: it’s a rare thing, and a full standing ovation was the proof of the pudding.

As if that wasn’t enough of a roller coaster of emotions for one evening, the revelation that members of the famous WI branch were among the audience was the icing on the proverbial cake.

If you do anything this week, go and see the Calendar Girls doing their thing on stage, plum jam, bare bums, iced buns and all.

The final performance is on Saturday night.

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Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in last year’s BBC TV’s Masterchef  competition. Every Saturday, Yemi will be writing on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food  and sharing cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe. 

I was excited to try out head chef Samira Effa’s new menu at Bar & Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall near Ripon.

I first knew of Samira from the Great British Menu competition where she was my choice to win. She suggested the eight-course tasting menu.

The first course of fragrant Tom Kha Gai with rice crisp topped with chilli miso ketchup and sorrel was a silky-smooth and well-balanced soup with high notes of lemongrass, citrus, subtle heat level, the right amount of sweetness and great depth of flavour.

With a great mouth-feel, flavours that thankfully lingered on, I couldn’t help licking my lips to capture every last sensation. The rice wafer dissolved on the tongue and the heat from the addictive ketchup started as a slow burn that crept up on you. This course was a ‘smack you in the face’ kind of flavour and a wonderful start to the dinner.

The second course of Warrendale Wagyu beef tataki with sesame ponzu, daikon, onions and shiso had a calming effect on the tastebuds, almost as though it was gently courting you. The toasty and spiced notes from the sesame seeds and oil were beautiful.

The slightly pickled daikon, light and fresh with the right amount of crunch, was served with lightly seared and dressed tender beef. The emulsion was like a great mayonnaise on steroids and the magic happened when you put everything together, as it resulted in a taste sensation that was light, elegant and delicious. This course took your tastebuds in a completely different direction, which made it impossible to compare with the earlier course.

The Warrendale wagyu beef tataki.

The third course of grilled diver-caught king scallops with smoked kimchi butter sauce, leek and oyster leaf was a sight for sore eyes, with the lightly seared scallops proudly sitting on a stunning sauce speckled with finely chopped herbs.

The kimchi butter gave body and character to the dish and the sweetness of the scallop married well with the delicate but yummy sauce with subtle notes of lemon and a hint of chilli that popped up at the end of each bite. The sauce was so delicious that I wished I had a piece of bread to mop it all up; it felt criminal to leave any of it on the plate.

The king scallop with smoked kimchi butter sauce, leek and oyster leaf.

The fourth course of roast cauliflower satay, coconut, kafir lime, and coriander made me see the vegetable in a whole new light. Who knew cauliflower could be sexy?

Cauliflower delight

Cauliflower roasted in masala spice nestling on a bed of silky-smooth purée that was as light as air, topped with a drizzle of light satay sauce. The stunning lime gel brought everything together with a burst of sweetness and sharpness that awakened your taste buds. I had a ‘happy laugh’ in my belly as this course made me smile with joy. I scraped my plate clean which is really something for someone who doesn’t usually like cauliflower. Like Oliver Twist, I wanted more.

The fish course of robata grilled halibut, fragrant shell bisque, Whitby crab gyoza, pak choi and sea herbs had perfectly charred yet juicy fish. The bisque had a great lobster-shell flavour with notes of lemongrass and coconut cream, and the micro herbs lent an aniseed flavour to complete the balance of sweet, salty, sour and umami. The accompanying dumpling had a skin that melted away leaving one to enjoy the delicate crab filling with the pak choi bringing in a juiciness that cleansed your palate, allowing you to experience the flavours all over again.

I was in love with the five-spiced Thirkleby duck breast, crispy confit leg, celeriac and umeboshi plum before I’d even tasted it. The accompanying sounds from my friend and me were all that was needed to confirm the yummy-ness of the dish. Juicy five-spiced duck meat in a crunchy coating, tender and pink duck breast, rich and delicious yet light plum jus and celeriac was a well-executed dish and a perfect way to end the savoury courses.

I couldn’t decide on out my favourite course; I had been taken on a culinary roller coaster journey with each stage as exciting as the previous one. I was eager for the dessert courses.

The glazed Yorkshire strawberry, mint and jasmine dessert was a visual and flavourful triumph. The strawberry sphere with the thinnest shell housed a sublimely light mousse with a mint centre. The meringue shell dissolved as soon it landed on your tongue and before you could say ‘Jack Robinson’, the strawberry shone through this dessert.

I didn’t think the strawberry dessert could be topped until the caramelised white chocolate and cherry, white sesame and tonka came out looking even more visually striking. The mousse, sat on crunchy bits, was like eating an elegant cheesecake, cherry ice cream brought a slight bitterness and the cherry compote was sharp enough to reengage your brain after you went to dessert heaven. The delicious sesame crisp was a sensational nod to an ingredient that popped up in different guises.

We ended the meal with salted caramel dark chocolates with a hint of liqueur. The mocktails were excellent, staff were so attentive they spotted a napkin that had slipped to the floor and brought a clean one.

Overall it was a belter of a meal and we left floating on a gastronomic cloud. Samira has created an eight-course meal that is a delight to eat and easy to fall in love with. Shout out to the incredible head pastry chef (@stefthepastrychef) for doing things with pastry that many of us can only dream of.

I highly recommend you go check out Bar & Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall, where your mind-blowing experience starts as you drive onto their glorious grounds before eating in a fairytale-like dining space.

Next week, I will be writing about my visit to Dutch Barn Orchard Vodka.

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A review into Harrogate’s controversial hosting of the 2019 UCI Road World Championships is finally set to be published – almost three years after the major cycling event was held.

Members of Harrogate Borough Council’s overview and scrutiny commission are behind the review, which will be published ahead of a meeting on July 4.

The nine-day cycling event was hailed by organisers as a “once in a lifetime moment” for Harrogate, but was also criticised by businesses and residents in the town who had complaints about disruptions during road closures.

It is also infamously remembered for leaving Harrogate’s West Park Stray severely damaged after the parkland was used as a spectator area during heavy rainfall, with repair works and upgrades later costing £130,000.

Conservative councillor Nick Brown, who has chaired the cross-party review, previously said the commission hoped to publish a final report last year, however, there have been several delays.

Speaking to the Local Democracy Reporting Service, he said:

“I can confirm that after long deliberations, covid and the recent local elections, it is planned for me to present the review on 4 July.

“The purpose of the review is to fully understand the impacts of this large-scale event for people who live and work in the area, and to also make any recommendations based on the evidence presented during the investigation.

“It should make interesting reading and perhaps will be useful for the new North Yorkshire unitary authority which will be involved in holding future events.”

Cllr Brown also said the views of residents and businesses had been “extremely useful” in shaping the review which involved a survey last year.

The review is separate to an economic impact study carried out by accountancy firm Ernst and Young at a cost of £19,000 to the council.

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• ‘I am utterly clueless when it comes to cycling’: How The Personal Cyclist helped me conquer my fear

This study concluded the championships resulted in an economic boost to the local economy of £17.8 million and was watched by a global television audience of 329 million.

It also said 84% of people who came to watch the event were satisfied or very satisfied with it.

However, it did not take into account a reported drop in earnings for some businesses, whose complaints rumbled on long after the event was held.

Retailers unhappy

Retail campaign group Independent Harrogate previously conducted its own survey looking into the event’s economic impact. After speaking to 22 of its members, the group claimed losses amounted to nearly £1m.

Based in Harrogate as the host town, the championships were held in the UK for the first time in nearly 40 years after a joint-bid by British Cycling, UK Sport, Welcome to Yorkshire and the government’s sport and culture department.

The event organisers were Yorkshire 2019 – a now-dissolved company which was set up by the government and later contributed £35,500 towards the West Park Stray repair costs.

A further £95,000 was spent on park upgrades by Harrogate Borough Council which spent a total of £606,000 on hosting the event.

The biggest single cost was £200,000 for the fan zone on West Park Stray.

Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, she was impressed with Harrogate’s DOMO Japanese Cuisine. 

A good friend of mine whose culinary expertise I have great respect for told me I should visit Domo Japanese Cuisine on Montpellier Walk here in Harrogate. He had a fabulous takeaway as a birthday treat at home, so intrigued, I made my way to Domo. Domo is on the site of what was Lord’s Restaurant, which then became Van Zellers Restaurant. Tom having a terrific reputation as a chef and was lorded by the eminent food critic Marina O’Loughlin.  Much has changed since then, as one would expect, and the style is now dark, atmospheric and simple. It makes a nice change from so many overgilded establishments.

This is an authentic Japanese restaurant and before the pandemic Japanese style of food was very in vogue amongst the great chefs of our country. As all chefs tend to do to cement their own style and identity, they play with styles and tastes. With the very warm weather that we have had recently, there were two little tables and chairs outside, one of which my young man and I took watching the world go by. Interestingly enough we watched Fisk, the fish restaurant opposite, fill quickly and easily.

It was a warm summer lunchtime as we studied the menu and on offer was a Bento Box. The choices of chicken, salmon, spicy BBQ beef or sushi, all served with a miso soup came in the form of a Bento Box.

The spicy beef bento box

There was of course an extensive menu with the style of dishes you would expect.

My young man chose the spicy beef bento box at £9.50 and myself the spicy tuna with sesame and ponzu with a bowl of rice at £14.00. The charming lady taking my order explained to me that the tuna would be rare – and I would have been disappointed had it not been so! The arrival of this dish was beautifully presented and the flavours were sensational. It reminded me of a dish that I experienced in a Michelin Starred restaurant that was beautifully crafted – but it didn’t have the wow factor I was experienced Domo. This was a lovely dish and if this is an indication of all the other dishes on offer, Harrogate is a very lucky place!

Frances’ spicy tuna with sesame and ponzu, with a bowl of rice

While on the subject of how food should be cooked, often the opinion of the chef seems to differ from the opinion of the guest. As we always ask guests how they would like their red meat cooked, perhaps we should do the same with fish?

My young man’s Bento Box came with the miso in a lovely little bowl and was once again so refreshing and stimulating to the palate. The actual box contained tofu, rice, sushi, BBQ beef and a little salad. At £9.50 for the complete meal, it was excellent value.

We were left feeling that we had a healthy and satisfying lunch and look forward to revisiting.

Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise Food at Daleside Nurseries, alongside fellow Michelin-starred chef Roger Olive and front of house manager John Tullett.  

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Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. This week, Frances reviews Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall. 

The Japanese Garden at Grantley Hall is an amazing idyllic garden that has been created in this beautiful manicured establishment that sits in a dell of ancient trees and waterways.

Such creativity has been matched by the new Restaurant EightyEight Head Chef Shane Zhao… a lady Chef – hurrah!

Japanese Garden dessert

Being impetuous by nature, I have to tell you about the dessert FIRST. Shane has produce a sublime experience which is in keeping with the surroundings. Yuzu, Black Sesame and Raspberry are woven into a dish called the Japanese Garden. It was perfectly balanced in texture and on the palate, and a beauty to behold, instilling a lasting memory of a great experience.

First Impressions

On arrival at Grantley Hall my young man and I drove down the side of a waterway with an exquisite duck house, around the wild flower garden and into the car park for Restaurant EightyEight. Getting out of the car I thought I must have left the car radio on, which was funny as I didn’t have the radio on! The music came from the bushes in the car park, and it seemed to be somewhat at odds with the general tranquillity.

We walked down to the restaurant and were seated in a very atmospheric bar with great lighting, orchids on the walls and ceiling, and beautiful Oriental tables. Staff were proud, helpful and conscientious for our wellbeing.

Starter

Fighting shy of the usual large tasting menus (£65 per person for 8 courses), purely because of quantity, we were advised to have small plates to share to start with. These consisted of Korean Fried Cauliflower with a Chive Aioli; this is a sensational dish and the most humble one at £8 on the menu. One of the best treatments of Cauliflower I have ever eaten.

We also had Scallops with a pea puree, a bow to seasonality (£19.50) and Duck Liver with Blood Orange Marmalade (£18.50). These starters set the talented style of what was to come.

Main Course

Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps and Fennel

Our main courses again, we shared. Flame Grilled Whole Quail, Smoky Aubergine Puree, Spiced Sausage & Pickled Cucumber (£29) was delightful. The Smoky Aubergine Puree an absolute hit as far as I was concerned with the Pickled Cucumber balancing the edge of the Smoke.

We are in the season for Sea Trout and Asparagus now, so therefore I felt it was appropriate to see how these ingredients were executed, with the Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps & Fennel (£28). What a joy! It was the sort of dish that you would like to have ordered another one. The flavours of these two dishes were exceptional. It might have been nice to have been recommended some form of carbohydrate with these very elegant dishes, but hey, would I want to ruin such balanced flavours?

The Verdict – 4 stars

I can’t wait to return to the lovely terrace area overlooking the garden and to sample more of Chef’s Vegetarian and Vegan Menus if they are as great as the cauliflower..

The wines by the glass were slightly underwhelming. There was plenty of choice by the bottle, but who needs big wines with food like this?

I know bookings are in great demand. We felt very fortunate to be there and it is some time I have been wowed to this extent!

Well worth it and I am saving up for my next visit.

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The Stray Ferret is delighted to announce that legendary Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins, will become… the Stray Foodie!

Frances owned the renowned Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge for 20 years, where she held a Michelin star for 16 of them.

Now Frances is now turning her talent and experience to food reviewing.

From fine-dining restaurants to pop ups, Frances will be visiting all types of catering establishments and writing a review for the Stray Ferret.

Her first review will be published on The Stray Ferret next week on Saturday, September 26.

Frances told The Stray Ferret:

“I would see it as my job to encourage people to stay safe, take care, but at the same time enjoy what is on offer at the moment.

“I’m hoping that [my reviews] will encourage people to visit our industry more and not to be so worried about these times because most people in the hospitality industry are over-cautious now and they care about their customers.

“A friend of mine said to me the other day that he loves reading food reviews because they paint a picture for him, and he feels as if he is there and enjoying it. It also stimulates him to try new dishes at home himself and broadens his horizons, so he absolutely loves them.

“As for business owners, every business wants to be busy; it’s a form of advertising that people will read and see, rather than the establishment just saying they’re the greatest – there’s nothing like word of mouth.

“Also, if somebody builds up a following, a trust, that’s something I have to achieve. I think it’s important that the owners have a confidence in us to want to advertise with us.”

Frances Atkins pictured outside her airstream bus business Paradise Foods.

Frances discusses the possible challenges she may face when writing her reviews.

She said:

“It’s particularly important to give a clear picture of the feeling of the place in the first instance and first impressions. I think it’s important to take a positive view rather than a negative view because everybody’s opinions are always different, and I think during these times it’s very important to produce positive and honest feedback.

“It could be a challenge for me to make sure I don’t let my professionalism interfere with a review on a place that may be structured slightly differently to the way I would run it. Also, not to enjoy myself too much because I’m very good at forgetting when I’m enjoying it – on the other hand, if I am enjoying myself to that degree then that must be a good thing.”

“For me this is an exciting new world, away from the stove – and that’s how I see it. The benefit I see is having a great experience seeing other people’s style and the way people do things.”

“I wouldn’t be criticising; I will be writing about an experience. It’s something that I find exciting because I want to put my experience onto paper.”

After leaving the Yorke Arms, Frances converted an airstream bus into a mobile kitchen business, Paradise Foods, and stationed it at Daleside Nurseries in Killinghall. She was joined by her previous colleagues, John Tulett and Roger Olive.

Are you a restaurant in the Harrogate district – from pop-up to fine dining? Would you like Frances to review your establishment? If so, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.