Stray Jewels Archives - The Stray Ferret

Stray Jewels: The art of archeological inspired jewellery

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan examines the work of 19th century Italian jeweller, Fortunato Pio Castellani

Whilst browsing through the catalogue for the forthcoming jewellery sale at Tennants on November 13, I was drawn to the most fabulous bangle that is on offer. Lot 2396, an ‘Archaeological Etruscan Revival Style Bangle’. It is made of gold and is set with cornelian scarabs within swivel mounts. The bangle has a pre-sale estimate of £4,000-6,000. Although not dated in the catalogue, the jeweller who made it must have been a great fan of one of the most important archaeological revival jewellers of all time, Fortunato Pio Castellani.

Many Victorian and even contemporary jewellery designers have been drawn to his work due to the boldness in design. Castellani jewellery is highly sought after by collectors. In 2006 Sotheby’s Auctioneers in New York sold the ‘Judith H Siegal Collection of Castellani & Giuliano Jewellery’. Siegal’s collection was put together over 20 years and brought together some of the finest works of art that were produced by these jewellers. In the collection was a beautiful gold bangle also set with scarabs, by Castellani.

Who was Castellani?

A gold bracelet by Castellani, circa 1860, sold for £20,000

The firm was founded by Fortunato Pio Castellani and the style of jewellery that was produced was known as Italian Archaeological Jewellery. Fortunato opened his shop in Rome in 1814. In 1826 he met Michaelango Caetani who became his life long friend and collaborator. It was Michaelango who inspired Fortunato to imitate the gold work of the ancient world and get inspiration for his jewellery from ancient jewels. His work was an instant hit.

The thriving business was continued by two of Fortunato’s sons, Alessandro (1823-1883) and Augusto (1829-1914). The jewellery was extraordinary. Works of art in gold and set with micro mosaics, enamel, scarabs and decorative techniques of granulation and filigree work. This was the destination shop for the Grand Tourist of the 19th century. The pieces are identified by a very distinctive mark of interlaced C’s.

In the November 2020 jewellery sale, Tennants offered a gold bracelet by Castellani which sold for £20,000. Despite being dated circa 1860, the curved batons give an almost contemporary feel to the bracelet. The lion heads terminals on the bracelets draw us back to the revival style.

The Popularity of Victorian Revival Jewellery

A Victorian Millefiori ‘froggy brooch’ sold for £3,800

Victorian jewellery certainly doesn’t appeal to everyone and comes in and out of favour within the auction world. What has never changed is the fascination with the Archaeological, Egyptian or Renaissance Revival jewels of the mid Victorian period. The Castellani family exhibited their jewellery at the 1862 International Exhibition in London and as a result their popularity grew in Britain. Jewellers were copying their style well into the 1890’s. Even pieces which are not attributed to a specific designer do well at auction, particularly when they are well executed. In their Spring Sale earlier this year, Tennants had a delightful Archaeological Revival Millefiori Brooch, dated circa 1880, within a fitted case – always a bonus. This was a particularly quirky brooch as there was a frog motif to the pendant and was referred to as “froggy brooch”, by the original owners.

Victorian jewellery may appear quite serious but it as we can see it can be great fun too! Happy jewellery hunting.

Stray Jewels: Jewels with the James Bond seal of approval

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan takes a closer look at the jewels with a link to various Bond films.

The jewellery scene is really great at the moment. Jewellery specialists in shops, auction houses and antiques fairs across our county are getting into pre-Christmas swing and of course, the new series of the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow is now being aired, which helps to fuel excitement.

There are lots of lovely jewels to share with you on a monthly basis and inspire you to browse our local shops, fairs and auction houses for inspiration.

What we all need when buying jewellery is a bit of luck. I adored the clover brooch, lot 1444, that sold for £400 (plus buyers premium), on the 17th September at Elstob & Elstob Auctioneers. It wasn’t the most expensive item in the sale, but it was absolutely my favourite.

By the time this article is published many of you will have seen the new Bond Film ‘No Time To Die’ and witnessed the magnificent jewels that are featured in the film. Having viewed the Elstob & Elstob Jewellery sale there are a number of jewels that can find an association (and I know, a rather tenuous association), with previous Bond Films! Never the less they are, for me, the other picks of the sale.

Make sure you read to the end of the article as you could seriously have a piece of jewellery, by a brand that did supply to a number of Bond films. The firm David Morris, adorned a number of leading ladies in various Bond Movies…but I think you might need to be quick to snap up this particular lot – so read on!

Lots 1521 and 1524 were two moonstone and diamond rings

I love moonstones and you guessed it, the tenuous link is “Moonraker” (1979). Lots 1521 and 1524 in the sale were two gorgeous moonstone and diamond rings both sold for £1,000. Moonstones are magical and romantic and are the gemstone representing the 3rd wedding anniversary. The ancient Romans and Greeks associated moonstones with their lunar deities and the Romans believed that moonstone were solidified rays of the moon. Moonstones have a beautiful luminescence and it isn’t surprising that they are associated with inspiring passion, creativity and most importantly bringing good fortune.

Passion and creativity are definitely seen in the works of Fabergé the Russian master of jewellery. There is an exhibition of Fabergé opening at the Victorian & Albert Museum, London, in November this year.

In the Bond film ‘Octopussy’ (1983), a ‘ Fabergé egg’ (obviously not an original), was featured, (“lot 48”, in the film’s auction – “an enamelled egg with blue sapphires”).

In Elstob’s sale a Russian enamelled egg, lot 1107, sold for £110, against an estimate of £100-150. It was a miniature egg and it was Russian…how lovely!

A Russian enamelled egg

But obviously it is not just auctions and our fabulous Yorkshire regional antique shops, galleries and markets that get us excited about jewels… films do too.

When it comes to jewels and fashion, James Bond and his leading ladies really epitomise glamour and ultimate style. At the Premiere, The Duchess of Cambridge shone in a stunning dress by Jenny Packham and a pair of earrings by O’nitaa. Other brands were showcased, fabulous jewels by Chopard, Tiffany, Ana Khouri, Sean Leane, Ara Vartanian and Jessica McCormack – what a sparkling display.

At Elstob & Elstob’s on line sale (ends 3rd October at 6pm), you still have the chance to have a taste of that James Bond glamour style. Lot 1559, estimated at £1,000-1500, is a diamond ring by David Morris, an exceptional contemporary jeweller. David Morris supplied jewels for numerous Bond films, including ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, ‘The Man with the Golden Gun’, ‘The World is Not Enough’ and ‘Tomorrow Never Dies’.

Still unsure what jewels to buy? Slight hint…’Diamonds are Forever’ (1971). Happy jewellery hunting.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Art Deco Delights

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan takes a closer look at Art Deco jewellery, including how it developed and the key influencers.

I have been really looking forward to getting back on the road and viewing auctions and visiting antique shops. I didn’t have to venture too far from The Gallery for my first trip out, just around the corner to Morphets Auctioneers, whose Fine Art Sale included just over 150 lots of jewellery and didn’t fail to disappoint.

The jewellery was from two private estates and featured a whole range of jewellery including Georgian, Edwardian contemporary Scandinavian and 1970’s jewellery. One of the private collections was full of Art Deco pieces and the proceeds of the collection were going to St Gemma’s Hospice in Leeds.

Art Deco continues to be one of the most collected styles in Jewellery. It is bold in design, exquisite in execution and although only spanning the 1920’s and 30’s it is timeless. The visual appeal of the period was seen in the Great Gatsby film and of course Downton Abbey, both productions raising the popularity of the style.

Lot 329- A Sapphire and Diamond Ring

How did the style develop?

The style came after the more delicate Edwardian period. Following the first world war fashion became bolder and jewellery needed to follow suit. Lot 329- A Sapphire and Diamond Ring, shows the transition from delicate to a more geometric design. This ring sold for £950. A more bold and solid approach to design, was reflected in lot 343- An Art Deco Diamond Plaque Ring. Many people re designed their jewels in the Art Deco period and this ring is a typical example, set with old European cut diamonds, dating from the 1890s but within a 1920’s mount. This beautiful ring sold for £1,000.

Lot 343- An Art Deco Plaque ring

Characteristics of the Art Deco Style

Colour contrasts, geometric shapes, asymmetrical designs and big compositions. This was represented in a number of lots in the sale. In particular lot 299, A Pair of Diamond Dress Clips c1935 which sold for £2,400. The double clips which can be worn as one brooch or separated and worn on jacket lapels incorporated brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, round and oblong respectively.

Lot 329- An Art Deco Double Clip Brooch Circa 1935

The idea of incorporating such different cuts was to bring variety and movement to the solid composition. The modern brilliant-cut diamond developed in the 1920’s brings more brilliance to the diamond with more facets than had ever been seen before. Lot 315- An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring which sold for £3,000, and Lot 365- An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring which sold for £1,500 both emphasise the passion for big statement rings during this period.

Lot 315- An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Ring

Lot 365- An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring

Jewellery Designers and Influences

Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels are amongst the most well known fine jewellers of the period. The sale featured a couple of pieces by the less well known firm Alabaster and Wilson, a family run firm founded in 1887 and based in Birmingham. They were asked by the Racing Post to make a diamond and enamel racing horse brooch for Her Majesty the Queen’s 90^th Birthday – a great honour. Lot 302 in the sale, The Jardiniere (basket of flowers) Brooch, was made by them and sold for £550.

Lot 302- The Jardiniere Brooch

Jardiniere brooches had been made popular by Cartier and as a result jewellers were quick to produce their own interpretations of the theme. This brooch was dated circa 1935 and shows how by this time more semi-precious stones such amethysts, garnets, citrines and peridots were being used in jewellery. These stones continued to be incorporated into jewellery throughout the 1940’s and 50’s and jewellery design also continued to feature some of the characteristics of Art Deco Jewellery.

I absolutely loved this piece, an abundance of colour in a basket! Summer really is just around the corner.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: the timeless allure of pearls

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

Many feel that pearls are old fashioned, but they have been worn by many style icons, including Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor and Michelle Obama and sale results continue to show pearls are very much in vogue.

De Vrooman; A Cultured Pearl Sapphire and Diamond Necklace. Sold for £2,200.

In 2011 Elizabeth Taylor’s Collection of jewellery came up for auction. The price of one necklace shocked the world. It contained a pearl that had once belonged to Mary I of England, known as ‘La Peregrina’. Richard Burton had bought the pearl at auction in 1969 for $37,000 as a Valentine Day’s gift for Elizabeth. She had it remounted by Cartier. In 2011 against a pre-sale estimate of $2,000,000 – $3,000,000 , it sold for just over $11 million. This sent the pearl world into a frenzy! From auction houses to the high street, pearls became highly prized and highly priced. The market has settled down over the last few years but premium prices can still be achieved for the finest examples, especially when they are accompanied by certificates to state that they are natural pearls or if made by important designers. In their sale Elstob & Elstob had a pearl, sapphire and diamond necklace by the award winning jewellery designers De Vrooman which sold for £2,200. A sophisticated look with exceptional cultured pearls.

What are pearls?

A natural pearl forms when a parasite or some other foreign matter enters the oyster or mussel shell. The mollusc then deposits layers of nacre around the intruder to soothe the irritation. Nacre is made up of a combination of calcium carbonate, conchiolin and water. Cultured pearls are farmed and the irritation is started by introducing a piece of shell (or mantle) into the pearl – hence the name ‘cultured’. Natural can pearls still command an exceptionally high price but I’ve not heard of anyone exchanging pearls for property recently, as the jewellers Cartier did in 1916, in New York. The necklace in question was valued at over $1 million. Masie and Morton Plant saw the necklace in the window and agreed to swap their mansion on Fifth Avenue for the necklace. The introduction of cultured pearls by Kokichi Mikimoto made pearls available to the masses and as a result natural pearl market suffered and in 1956 when Maisey’s necklace came up for auction it made $150,000!

An Edwardian Natural Pearl, Diamond and Enamel Pendant. Sold for £3,200.

Cultured pearls today

There are an abundance of cultured pearls available today. Saltwater Akoya pearls remain popular, mainly from Japan and China. South Sea and Tahitian pearls are all popular but can be quite expensive. Cultured pearls from Japan have made larger pearls more accessible and more affordable than the warm water varieties.

A Pair of Edwardian Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Earrings. Sold for £1,200.

What to look for when buying pearls

When buying natural pearls it is very important that they are accompanied by a laboratory certificate Elstob & Elstob sold two lovely pairs of natural saltwater pearl earrings. Both had good a lustre (shine) and surface condition. The Pearls also matched well in each pair. Whether natural or cultured uniformity in size and shape is key. This will help to maintain value. Smaller pearls are also popular especially when set in pretty pendants such as the enamel and diamond example illustrated. This dates from the Edwardian period and the central pearl was also accompanied by a certificate. This helped it reach its sale value of £3,200.

A Pair of Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Pendant Earrings. Sold for £2,800.

Looking after pearls

The oils in our skin help the pearls to look shiny and enhance the lustre when we wear them, but at the same time the oils are destructive to the pearls. Once you have worn pearls its is really important to wipe them before you put them back in the box. Pearls don’t have the hardness or durability of many gemstones, so we really do need to treat them gently.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Amethyst and Aquamarine

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

Big and bold gemstones are a big hit at the moment. The television drama “The Serpent’ has helped to re-ignite the passion for 70’s fashion and jewellery. Two fabulous gemstones that were particularly popular at the time are amethyst and aquamarine. Both stones have been a favourite in jewellery since the 18th century, particularly after extensive sources were found in Brazil. Fine examples of amethysts have also been found in Siberia and featured in many important royal jewels, including those from Russia. They also just happen to be the gemstones that represent February and March in the language of gems.

An Amethyst and Diamond Ring, circa 1930

Fashionable Cuts

Both gemstones suit the emerald-cut (oblong) alongside an older cushion-cut (from the 18th & 19th centuries), as each cut brings out the depth and intensity of colour.

The February birth stone is amethyst bringing warmth to the cold days. The ancient Greeks believed amethyst gems prevented intoxication, as they were associated with Dionysus, the god of wine and revelry! The stones can be light purple or violet in colour through to an a very intense purple. They were often incorporated into Victorian jewels and were very important to the Suffragette movement of the early 20th century. The Suffragettes were fighting for women to be able to vote in public elections. Last month I wrote about acrostic jewellery – where a message of love or a person’s name could be spelled out by using gemstones, taking the first letter of each gemstone to spell out the name or message. The same principle was used by the Suffragette movement to express the purpose of their movement, to “Give Women the Vote”. Give was represented by a green stone such as peridot or tourmaline. Women was represented by white pearls or sometimes diamonds. Vote was represented by amethysts due to the violet colour. Sometimes the colours were reflected in enamelling on pieces of jewellery too. These colours were also particularly fashionable during the 1870-1900 period and consequently many pieces of late Victorian jewellery were worn in the early part of the 20th century to show a woman’s allegiance to the movement.

An Amethyst, Peridot and Pearl pendant, circa 1890

As designs became bolder in jewellery from the 20’s, amethysts would be incorporated with other strong colours to really make a statement – something that was replicated in the 1950’s with fantastic cocktail jewellery and again the 70’s. Being known as semi-precious stones, many amethysts remain affordable when bought both in an auction environment as well as retail, although the Siberian amethysts can fetch thousands of pounds at auction due to their intense and velvety colour.

Aquamarines, the birthstone for March are associated with courage, tranquillity and calmness. The name derives from the Latin words aqua, meaning water and mare, meaning sea, an obvious reference to its water-like colouring. As with amethysts, the depth of colour can vary, from a pale greenish blue to an intense vibrant blue. The stone was particularly fashionable in the Edwardian and Art Deco period as it provided a lovely contrast to diamonds and pearls in jewellery at the time. As a wedding gift from Prince Harry, The Duchess of Sussex received the emerald-cut aquamarine cocktail ring that had belonged to his mother, Diana, Princess of Wales.

A late Victorian aquamarine and seed pearl necklace, circa 1890 and contemporary pear-cut aquamarine earrings

As we emerge from the cold February days and see the purple of the crocus popping up over the Stray, below the lovely bright blue sky on a fresh spring sunny day, why not consider treating yourself to one (or both) of these beautiful stones, bringing a bit of brightness into your jewellery collection.

Stray Jewels: Inspired by Animals

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

Jewellery is a way to express love. Flora and fauna were through history quite obvious ways to show secret messages of love and sentiment. But it may be less obvious that animals and creepy crawlies can also represent such thoughts and have inspired magical pieces of jewellery, including the snake!

Diamond, ruby and sapphire snake ring

Elstob & Elstob kick off 2021 with a jewellery sale which includes three animal inspired pieces of jewellery. A diamond, ruby and sapphire snake ring (lot 516) particularly caught my eye. Snakes are certainly not to everyone’s taste but in the language of love they represent eternal love. Eternal love renews itself just as a snake sheds and regrows its skin. The snake ring in the sale has lovely vibrant stones, this really is a statement piece. The popularity of snake rings was fuelled in the mid nineteenth century by Queen Victoria who received a snake ring as her engagement ring, from her husband to be Albert and she cherished it. Her interest in snake jewellery inspired many creations on this theme.

A pair of quirky pearl, diamond and gold turtle brooches

Perhaps a pair of quirky pearl, diamond and gold turtle brooches (lot 415) will appeal to more people. These turtle brooches have articulated tails which adds to their cuteness and charm. They are by the Italian designer Filipo Moroni. Moroni’s jewellery is always strong in design, using the finest stones. Themes range from stunning gold bracelets to gem set flower heads and diamond set rhinos. These turtles are set with diamonds and pearls on 18 carat gold. The turtle represents, amongst other qualities in a person, patience and calmness; and the pearls represent Venus, who was associated with the sea and eternal love.

Quirky animal jewellery really became popular during the 1960’s. It became the norm for jewellery designers to incorporate jewelled animal characters in their collections. This theme was led by American designers such as Donald Clafin who was working for Tiffany in the late 1960’s. The inspiration came from the animated films produced by Disney. Van Cleef & Arpels created their ‘La Boutique Collection’ of cartoonish animal brooches. Jackie Kennedy was amongst those who collected them. A fun piece of animal jewellery with a very characterful face is lot 535, the novelty lion brooch. Made of gold with ruby eyes and an emerald for the nose. The gold is cleverly textured and modelled and is a great example of whimsical jewellery and showing how fine jewellery can be less formal.

Not only does jewellery express love it can also express your character too. We may not want to wear an abundance of animal and insect jewels all at the same time, as the Victorian fashion dictated, but having these quirky pieces in a collection is great fun and for me the jewels of the 1960’s are a great addition and certainly bring a smile to ones face.

Stray Jewels: How to start a jewellery collection

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

A New Year is always a good time to start a new pastime. So why not start to collect jewellery? From high quality costume jewellery to fabulous gems set jewellery, there is something in the jewellery world for all tastes and budgets. With an array of auction houses, antiques centres and jewellery shops around the region we really do have a wealth of choice and knowledge to help the collector.

Victorian Enamel and Gold Forget-Me-Not brooch (circa 1870)

How do you begin to collect jewellery?

There are many ways to approach collecting jewellery. Perhaps collect a particular gemstone. Gemstones have so many origins and each origin can determine the colour and quality of the stones. It is great fun to see the array of tones of reds for rubies for example or seeing how aquamarines can range from pale blue – almost clear stones to a very intense blue. The colour can also help to determine the age of a piece of jewellery as only certain countries would have been mining stones at certain times in history.

Alternatively, your collection could be themed, by age, type of jewel or subject matter. You maybe particularly interested in the Georgian, Victorian or Art Deco periods for example, for which there are many beautiful jewels appearing at auctions and fairs to tempt you.

Art Deco Aquamarine Ring (circa 1930)

Another approach is to pick a certain designer of jewellery. As signed jewellery is becoming highly collectable, this can be a costly exercise! There is a certain excitement to be had hunting out these pieces. Prior to the 1970’s, jewellery made in Britain didn’t have to be signed or hallmarked. Identifying makers is quite often through knowing the style of a designer and spotting any characteristics in their work. Once you become familiar with a certain jewellery maker you may spot a piece of jewellery by them that has been overlooked by others – that can be quite a thrill.

Quality

Onyx and silver bracelet (circa 1960)

Whatever your budget, always buy the best quality items that you can. This avoids having to spend money on restoration which can be a costly exercise. Knowing the piece is in good condition could help the piece to maintain value in the future.

Always ask for advice when viewing jewellery. Buying gemstones can be daunting. Colour, clarity, cut and carat weight (known as the Four Cs’) all add to the value of a stone. Invest in a jewellery loupe which will magnify the jewellery by at least 10 times, exposing flaws in the gemstones and any damage to the mounts.

Buying for Investment

Victorian diamond bangle

No one can see into the future and the antiques market is as changeable as any. Clothing and interior decorating fashions come and go and this also applies to the jewellery market too. The best advice is to buy what you love and wear it, that way you have invested in an item of jewellery that makes you smile… and who knows, its value may soar in the future – an added bonus.

By collecting jewellery you are not only treating yourself but creating heirlooms for future generations.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Christmas sparkle

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

A bit of sparkle is a must at Christmas. Elizabeth Taylor was surprised to find a pair of Georgian diamond ear pendants in her stocking one Christmas morning – a present from Mike Todd. Elizabeth had spotted the earrings in an antique shop but didn’t want them as they were set with paste (a fantastic Georgian invention to imitate diamonds, but not quite sparkly enough for Elizabeth!). Todd bought them, had a jeweller unset the paste and set the mounts with diamonds, and Elizabeth was naturally very happy!

With Christmas stockings in mind, I looked back through various local jewellery auctions this year and considered what I might like to appear in my stocking on Christmas Day. There were lots of pieces, but I have to narrow it down – so here are my top three…

Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch

Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch, by Tiffany & Co.

Without doubt I wouldn’t reject the fantastic Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch by Tiffany & Co, which featured in Elstob & Elstob‘s sale back in April. Tiffany is undoubtedly a name that shouts style, elegance and sophistication. They were the first to introduce ‘catalogue shopping’, with their ‘Blue Book’. Today we are used to catalogue and online shopping but back in the C19th century this was a first. Today their ‘Blue Book’ is a show case for exclusive jewellery. So why the Orchid Brooch in my top three? A limited number were produced for Tiffany by the renowned jeweller Paulding Farnham and such brooches were exhibited at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle, one of the most important exhibitions at the time. The skill of the jeweller to create the amazing detail shown in the flower just cannot be beaten. Enamelling is a specialised skill and this brooch is one to admire. Only 25 of these brooches were produced and this one made £50,000 – a record breaking price…

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch.

At a Tennants Auctioneers jewellery sale in November I particularly liked a Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch circa 1925. The pink sapphires have a great liveliness to them and as a stone that represents devotion, this is a brooch that I would adore to have in my collection. The 1920’s is Art Deco era – a time of fun, contrasts of colour in fashion and jewellery design. This was a period to express new ideas but at times the style still drew on the elegance of the Edwardian Period. This can be really appreciated in this brooch. Many say brooches are out of fashion – I say definitely not! The hammer came down at £3,200 on this beautiful brooch and I think worth every penny.

Enamel Owl Brooch

Enamel Owl Brooch, by David Anderson.

Last week Elstob & Elstob had a lovely sale of jewellery and amongst many great pieces the one I would like to make an appearance in my Christmas stocking is the enamel owl brooch by David Anderson, a renowned jeweller from Norway. Early 20th Century Scandinavian jewellery appeals to many. George Jensen is perhaps a more popular name, but David Anderson is becoming highly collectible. His enamel work is fun and exciting. His work is a must in any jewellery collection and a wise owl as part of a collection is a winner. Although big in character the hammer price for the owl brooch was modest £130.

My next column will be on 2 January when I will look forward to sharing my top tips for jewellery collecting and what to look out for in 2021.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: The magic of silver

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

In my new column ‘Stray Jewels’ I will be bringing you the hidden gems of Yorkshire. From auction house highlights and Yorkshire museum treasures to the fabulous pieces I have access to at my gallery and through travels. You will have a first-hand insight into the fantastic world of jewels through The Stray Ferret.

The world of gems and jewels brings with it passion, scandal, history and power, often in equal measures – in fact even if someone doesn’t like wearing jewellery they are often interested in the design, the maker and the story the jewels may have.

As a jewellery specialist on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, I’m often asked ‘how did you get into jewellery?’ The answer to that would be, that it was quite simply by chance and after 25 years, I have never looked back.

A multi-gem set locket.

So how did my career begin?

Summer 1991: work experience at Sotheby’s Harrogate. This was when I knew I wanted to be in the auction world; fuelled by many years watching Love Joy and the Antique’s Roadshow on a Sunday night. There was a buzz in the air – Castle Howard were having an ‘Attic Sale’. I was enthralled by it all. The auction world was for me.

I was just about to start at Reading University to study History of Art and Architecture and as far as I was concerned a career as an Art Specialist was what I was going to pursue. When I graduated, I went on to do a Post Grad degree in Decorative Arts at Glasgow University in association with Christie’s Auctioneers. I found out I still loved art but I was now drawn to the magic of silver. At the end of the course I became a trainee in the Silver Department at Christie’s in Glasgow and was in an office which was shared with the Jewellery Specialist – I became hooked and a career in jewels began.

Would you like Susan to review one of your antique pieces?

Whether its a family heirloom or a piece you bought at an auction, Susan would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to review your jewellery, send her an email to: contact@susanrumfitt.com.

After Christie’s, I went on to work at Phillips Auctioneers. It was intense but utterly exciting. Travelling around the world as well as running my own jewellery department in London. More importantly every day was full of learning about gems and jewels. Despite the excitement I always knew Harrogate was meant to be home. In 2002 I came back to Yorkshire and had three very happy years as the Jewellery Consultant for Tennant’s Auctioneers.

In 2006 I was asked to join the ‘BBC’s Antiques Roadshow’. I had always wondered, could it happen, could I ever be on that programme as a ‘Specialist’? Yes it could happen and it did happen, dreams can come true!

In 2007 I set up ‘The Gallery’ not only as a place from which clients could buy jewellery but as a place in which to hold presentations and share my passion and interest in the history of jewellery. The Gallery has become a place for all to share a love of jewellery. Many people have said The Gallery is itself a gem within the heart of Harrogate. That gem is now brought to you all through The Stray Ferret.

Join me next month when I look at saleroom highlights in the region and consider the world of Emeralds, the stone of love and hope.

A Columbian Emerald ring never fails to please.

Do you have a piece of jewellery you would like to know more about? If so, feel free to contact Susan at contact@susanrumfitt.com. Susan will answer all your enquiries regarding jewellery. Please do not send any information regarding your jewellery by any social media platform.

Find out more about Susan’s career by clicking here.

Who was Castellani?

The Popularity of Victorian Revival Jewellery

Read More:

Read more:

How did the style develop?

Characteristics of the Art Deco Style

Jewellery Designers and Influences

Read More:

What are pearls?

Cultured pearls today

What to look for when buying pearls

Looking after pearls

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Would you like Susan to review one of your antique pieces?