Stray Jewels: Inspired by Animals

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

 

Jewellery is a way to express love. Flora and fauna were through history quite obvious ways to show secret messages of love and sentiment. But it may be less obvious that animals and creepy crawlies can also represent such thoughts and have inspired magical pieces of jewellery, including the snake!

Diamond, ruby and sapphire snake ring

Elstob & Elstob kick off 2021 with a jewellery sale which includes three animal inspired pieces of jewellery. A diamond, ruby and sapphire snake ring (lot 516) particularly caught my eye. Snakes are certainly not to everyone’s taste but in the language of love they represent eternal love. Eternal love renews itself just as a snake sheds and regrows its skin. The snake ring in the sale has lovely vibrant stones, this really is a statement piece. The popularity of snake rings was fuelled in the mid nineteenth century by Queen Victoria who received a snake ring as her engagement ring, from her husband to be Albert and she cherished it. Her interest in snake jewellery inspired many creations on this theme.

A pair of quirky pearl, diamond and gold turtle brooches

Perhaps a pair of quirky pearl, diamond and gold turtle brooches (lot 415) will appeal to more people. These turtle brooches have articulated tails which adds to their cuteness and charm. They are by the Italian designer Filipo Moroni. Moroni’s jewellery is always strong in design, using the finest stones. Themes range from stunning gold bracelets to gem set flower heads and diamond set rhinos. These turtles are set with diamonds and pearls on 18 carat gold. The turtle represents, amongst other qualities in a person, patience and calmness; and the pearls represent Venus, who was associated with the sea and eternal love.

Quirky animal jewellery really became popular during the 1960’s. It became the norm for jewellery designers to incorporate jewelled animal characters in their collections. This theme was led by American designers such as Donald Clafin who was working for Tiffany in the late 1960’s. The inspiration came from the animated films produced by Disney. Van Cleef & Arpels created their ‘La Boutique Collection’ of cartoonish animal brooches. Jackie Kennedy was amongst those who collected them. A fun piece of animal jewellery with a very characterful face is lot 535, the novelty lion brooch. Made of gold with ruby eyes and an emerald for the nose. The gold is cleverly textured and modelled and is a great example of whimsical jewellery and showing how fine jewellery can be less formal.

Not only does jewellery express love it can also express your character too. We may not want to wear an abundance of animal and insect jewels all at the same time, as the Victorian fashion dictated, but having these quirky pieces in a collection is great fun and for me the jewels of the 1960’s are a great addition and certainly bring a smile to ones face.

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Stray Jewels: How to start a jewellery collection

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

 

A New Year is always a good time to start a new pastime. So why not start to collect jewellery? From high quality costume jewellery to fabulous gems set jewellery, there is something in the jewellery world for all tastes and budgets. With an array of auction houses, antiques centres and jewellery shops around the region we really do have a wealth of choice and knowledge to help the collector.

Victorian Enamel and Gold Forget-Me-Not brooch (circa 1870)

How do you begin to collect jewellery?

There are many ways to approach collecting jewellery. Perhaps collect a particular gemstone. Gemstones have so many origins and each origin can determine the colour and quality of the stones. It is great fun to see the array of tones of reds for rubies for example or seeing how aquamarines can range from pale blue – almost clear stones to a very intense blue. The colour can also help to determine the age of a piece of jewellery as only certain countries would have been mining stones at certain times in history.

Alternatively, your collection could be themed, by age, type of jewel or subject matter. You maybe particularly interested in the Georgian, Victorian or Art Deco periods for example, for which there are many beautiful jewels appearing at auctions and fairs to tempt you.

Art Deco Aquamarine Ring (circa 1930)

Another approach is to pick a certain designer of jewellery. As signed jewellery is becoming highly collectable, this can be a costly exercise! There is a certain excitement to be had hunting out these pieces. Prior to the 1970’s, jewellery made in Britain didn’t have to be signed or hallmarked. Identifying makers is quite often through knowing the style of a designer and spotting any characteristics in their work. Once you become familiar with a certain jewellery maker you may spot a piece of jewellery by them that has been overlooked by others – that can be quite a thrill.

Quality

Onyx and silver bracelet (circa 1960)

Whatever your budget, always buy the best quality items that you can. This avoids having to spend money on restoration which can be a costly exercise. Knowing the piece is in good condition could help the piece to maintain value in the future.

Always ask for advice when viewing jewellery. Buying gemstones can be daunting. Colour, clarity, cut and carat weight (known as the Four Cs’) all add to the value of a stone. Invest in a jewellery loupe which will magnify the jewellery by at least 10 times, exposing flaws in the gemstones and any damage to the mounts.

Buying for Investment

Victorian diamond bangle

No one can see into the future and the antiques market is as changeable as any. Clothing and interior decorating fashions come and go and this also applies to the jewellery market too. The best advice is to buy what you love and wear it, that way you have invested in an item of jewellery that makes you smile… and who knows, its value may soar in the future – an added bonus.

By collecting jewellery you are not only treating yourself but creating heirlooms for future generations.

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: The magic of silver

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

In my new column ‘Stray Jewels’ I will be bringing you the hidden gems of Yorkshire. From auction house highlights and Yorkshire museum treasures to the fabulous pieces I have access to at my gallery and through travels. You will have a first-hand insight into the fantastic world of jewels through The Stray Ferret.

The world of gems and jewels brings with it passion, scandal, history and power, often in equal measures – in fact even if someone doesn’t like wearing jewellery they are often interested in the design, the maker and the story the jewels may have.

As a jewellery specialist on the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, I’m often asked ‘how did you get into jewellery?’ The answer to that would be, that it was quite simply by chance and after 25 years, I have never looked back.

A multi-gem set locket.

So how did my career begin?

Summer 1991: work experience at Sotheby’s Harrogate. This was when I knew I wanted to be in the auction world; fuelled by many years watching Love Joy and the Antique’s Roadshow on a Sunday night. There was a buzz in the air – Castle Howard were having an ‘Attic Sale’. I was enthralled by it all. The auction world was for me.

I was just about to start at Reading University to study History of Art and Architecture and as far as I was concerned a career as an Art Specialist was what I was going to pursue. When I graduated, I went on to do a Post Grad degree in Decorative Arts at Glasgow University in association with Christie’s Auctioneers. I found out I still loved art but I was now drawn to the magic of silver. At the end of the course I became a trainee in the Silver Department at Christie’s in Glasgow and was in an office which was shared with the Jewellery Specialist – I became hooked and a career in jewels began.

Would you like Susan to review one of your antique pieces?

Whether its a family heirloom or a piece you bought at an auction, Susan would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to review your jewellery, send her an email to: contact@susanrumfitt.com.

After Christie’s, I went on to work at Phillips Auctioneers. It was intense but utterly exciting. Travelling around the world as well as running my own jewellery department in London. More importantly every day was full of learning about gems and jewels. Despite the excitement I always knew Harrogate was meant to be home. In 2002 I came back to Yorkshire and had three very happy years as the Jewellery Consultant for Tennant’s Auctioneers.

In 2006 I was asked to join the ‘BBC’s Antiques Roadshow’. I had always wondered, could it happen, could I ever be on that programme as a ‘Specialist’? Yes it could happen and it did happen, dreams can come true!

In 2007 I set up ‘The Gallery’ not only as a place from which clients could buy jewellery but as a place in which to hold presentations and share my passion and interest in the history of jewellery. The Gallery has become a place for all to share a love of jewellery. Many people have said The Gallery is itself a gem within the heart of Harrogate. That gem is now brought to you all through The Stray Ferret.

Join me next month when I look at saleroom highlights in the region and consider the world of Emeralds, the stone of love and hope.

A Columbian Emerald ring never fails to please.

Do you have a piece of jewellery you would like to know more about? If so, feel free to contact Susan at contact@susanrumfitt.com. Susan will answer all your enquiries regarding jewellery. Please do not send any information regarding your jewellery by any social media platform.

Find out more about Susan’s career by clicking here.

“Newby Hall will be superb” says Harrogate Antiques Roadshow expert

Independent jewellery specialist Susan Rumfitt told The Stray Ferret that she is delighted BBC One’s Antiques Road Show is coming to Newby Hall this summer.

Susan joined the team of specialists on the Roadshow in 2006. As well as being on the show, she is also a Freeman of the Goldsmiths’ Company and has her own gallery in Harrogate.

In an interview with The Stray Ferret, Susan reflected on some of her favourite pieces she has seen as well as voicing her excitement for the upcoming show at Newby Hall.

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When asked what it is like to work for the Antiques Roadshow, Susan told The Stray Ferret:

“Working for the show is just great fun and although we are all individual specialists with our own areas of expertise, we work really closely as a team, from production, through to camera men, through to specialists. It’s about everyone putting in 100% to get the effects that everybody sees on the television.”

Susan with a client

Susan Rumfitt pictured with a client at Buckfast Abbey.

Despite the current climate, Susan said that the show may look a bit different but will still have the superb Antiques Roadshow charm. She told The Stray Ferret:

“From a clients perspective coming to the show, they will still get the same attention as they normally would do. We are all looking forward to doing it in whatever format we are able to. The fact that it is coming back to Yorkshire at such a beautiful spot will showcase our area so well…I am delighted it is coming to Newby Hall.”

Susan was approached by the team at the Roadshow two years before joining, due to her extensive background in antique jewellery. Since then she has seen a number of fascinating pieces, with one of her favourite’s being a gold bracelet originally belonging to Queen Victoria.