Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, she sampled the aged beef at West Park, but was disappointed.
I have long since admired the position of West Park, overlooking the Stray but never eaten there, so this was a treat to cheer up a good friend.
On a sunny day this is a busy, vibrant area with pavement tables reminiscent of Parisienne café culture. With much investment, what was a downtrodden pub has now produced a sophisticated hotel, with a good vibe in-keeping with the local area.
The planning and operation of this establishment is exemplary considering the difficulties the industry has with the lack of staff. The Front of House service was faultless as we sat outside on a pavement table, albeit rather noisy.
This was lunchtime and one would assume that coffees and pastries had been enjoyed prior to lunch.
The menu
Light bites, sandwiches and salads start from £9.00 for a fish butty consisting of a Black Sheep beer battered haddock, tartare sauce in a white or brown bloomer… not for the faint hearted! Or you could have an Indian spiced pulled chicken wrap with baby gem, mango chutney, cucumber and mint yoghurt, also for £9.00.
All sandwiches come with a dressed salad and chunky or skinny fries, or as an alternative there is a feta salad with roasted peppers and croutons, also for £9.00.
The light bites include haddock and leek gratin for £10.00, benedict ham, smoked salmon or spinach also £10.00, and other similar dishes.
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Grandly displayed in front of a very slick floral entrance is a more sophisticated menu with a choice of seven starters, including prawns, scallops, and confit of duck varying from £8.00 to £10.00 each.
As a main, there are variations of aged British beef ranging from £24 to £70. The £70 option is sirloin on the bone for two to share. Also available for a main course is a wagu burger, fish & chips, cod fillet, chicken & ham pie, sticky belly pork or a plum tomato & burrata tart, all priced between £15.00 and £20.00.
It was surprising to me that on this extensive menu, all the vegetarian dishes contained cheese.
Frances was disappointed with the aged beef
The verdict
We ordered a Mount St John courgette and Yorkshire fettle tart with ratatouille and parsley crisps. Sadly, the pastry on this dish was the best thing about it. All there seemed to be on the base was some tomato puree. The courgette was shrivelled and in desperate need of lubrication. Ratatouille contains courgette but it didn’t make another appearance, which was surprising as usually anything from Mount St John’s garden is of the highest quality.
If one boasts the quality of the ingredient on the menu, especially when it comes to rare breed aged beef, it needs to be amazing. However, the beef took 50 minutes to arrive after ordering, and we had declined a choice of sauces on the pretext that it would be well charred and full of its own natural juices. Sadly this was not to be.
Menus need to be written taking into consideration ingredient and staffing availability. In an establishment of this quality in these changing times, a humble plate of fresh, well executed food is much preferable to an overly ambitious menu that needs a lot of advanced preparation.
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise Food at Daleside Nurseries, alongside fellow Michelin-starred chef Roger Olive and front of house manager John Tullett.
This article is sponsored by The West Park
Visitors to Harrogate’s West Park can soon enjoy alfresco dining in a whole new style, in The Courtyard. The restaurant’s brand-new offering is open from Saturday 26 June.
Famed for its delicious seasonal menus and warm Yorkshire welcome, West Park already has a stellar reputation as one of Harrogate’s finest drinking and dining spots – but The Courtyard is set to take that status even further.
The contemporary and understated space sits under a retractable roof, allowing guests to soak up the sunshine or be protected from the unpredictable British elements. Along with bespoke heated seating and beautiful tiled flooring, The Courtyard features a living wall – perfect for visitors to capture their favourite moments on camera.
Food lovers can continue to enjoy West Park’s delectable cuisine. With a strong focus on championing local produce, the seasonal menus feature a delightful array of classic British and international dishes.
Guests at West Park are spoilt for choice, with flavoursome new dishes such as the Rump of Yorkshire Warrendale Wagyu Beef and the new Peppered Tuna Sashimi. Those looking for a lighter lunch may look towards light bites such as the Indian Spiced Pulled Chicken Wrap or Warm Goats Cheese & Roast Mediterranean Vegetables.
The Courtyard will also be home to a new bar, stocked with local and international ales, spirits and wines. West Park’s expertly crafted cocktails are available too – and they do not disappoint! The Rhubarb and Wild Berry Sour made with Slingsbury Rhubarb Gin and crème de mure, and the West Park Retreat made with Mount Gay Rum topped with caramel syrup are sure to crave those with a sweet tooth after a magnificent meal.
For those looking to enjoy an extended stay in Harrogate, West Park offers deluxe accommodation, with rooms boasting super king Hypnos beds and Nespresso coffee machines.
Speaking of the refurbishment, Anthony Blundell, West Park Hotel Commercial Manager said:
“The West Park Courtyard is going to be the most amazing alfresco space for our guests to drink fine wines, champagne, enjoy our fabulous cocktails and indulge in our delicious seasonal menu. We’re all so proud of our new space, nowhere else we know of has heated seats in the North of England, let alone Harrogate!”
You can now book your table at the West Park Courtyard.
Confederate flag taken down in Harrogate antiques store after complaintA flag has been removed from sale in a West Park antiques shop in Harrogate after a woman complained.
The flag was hanging near the back of 27 West Park Antiques. It has now been taken down and the owner has apologised for causing offence.
Tim Ward, Owner of 27 West Park Antiques said:
“The flag was bought along with a job lot of American state flags which came from a country and western club that closed down. It was bought from a car boot sale so no offence was intended and the flag has been taken down.”
The complaint was made by Kira Dyer who lives in York and was in Harrogate on a shopping trip with friends. Ms Dyer approached staff at 27 West Park Antiques to complain, before tweeting about it yesterday evening.
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Ms Dyer said:
“I have no problem with them selling the flag, I just feel that to display it in such a way is inconsiderate of its racist heritage and highly offensive. I understand a store of its nature will have items of controversy but there is a big difference between its display on a shelf along with other items and it being flown mid store.”
The confederate flag is seen as a hate symbol. In the early 1860s, 11 southern states withdrew themselves from the US to continue being part of the slave trade. The withdrawal formed the Confederate States of America and the American Civil War followed soon after.
Mr Ward said his antiques shop generally researches the historical context of what is being brought in and rarely receives complaints. However, he apologised for displaying the Confederate flag.