Yemi’s Food Stories: Brunch at The Hideaway in Boroughbridge
by
Last updated Mar 8, 2024
Head chef Ben Keightley.

Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in the 2022 series of BBC TV’s Masterchef competition.

Every Saturday Yemi writes on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food and shares cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.

 


The Hideaway is one of those places that locals would like to keep quiet to ensure they can always get a table – but a good secret is worth sharing. At least that’s what I told some Boroughbridge residents I ran into at the restaurant, after they said I am going to be calling Yorkshire’s attention to their ‘hideaway’.

Head chef Ben Keightley invited me to try the brunch-style menu, which takes inspiration from world cuisines. With options ranging from American-style fried chicken and rarebit, to Asian salads and a Moroccan lamb dish, this was an offer I could not refuse.

There was a definite buzz about the restaurant, and I could tell they have made quite an impression since they opened. The décor is calm, inviting and welcoming and the relaxed atmosphere and layout accommodates everyone.

There is a little corner of the restaurant in which you can buy gifts including handmade soaps, candles, books and scarves. I thought this was a lovely way to end the meal.

Moroccan-inspired lamb

I opted for the Moroccan-style braised lamb, served with garlic flatbread, tzatziki, rocket and pomegranate.

I can’t resist fresh bread, so this was at the top of my list and I wasn’t disappointed! The bread was fluffy and slightly crunchy on the outside. The lamb was tender with the fat well rendered down, flavoursome and fragrant from the spices without having any heat.

Yoghurt-based sauces are sometimes bland, but this was well seasoned and provided the creaminess to the dish that married well with the braised lamb. I also loved the simple yet stylish plating.

The red onion and lamb delivered umami and the rocket brought a touch of bitterness. The sauce provided a necessary creaminess and the pomegranate seeds gave pops of sweet juiciness.

The magic happened when you get a bit of every element on your fork.

This was a dish I couldn’t stop eating and one that I would definitely recommend. It is substantial, filling and reasonably priced at £15.95.

Buttermilk chicken

The second dish I tried was the buttermilk chicken with coleslaw and charred sweetcorn.

There is something about charred sweetcorn that immediately takes me back to my childhood in Nigeria. The smell of corns roasting over hot coals would always draw you in.

I am partial to flavour, temperature, and texture combinations, so the play on sweet, savoury, crunch, creaminess, bitterness and acidity was lovely.

I am not a fan of raw onions, but I loved the touch of acidity that the onion brought to the red coleslaw – which was also delicious. Creamy dressings can often feel and taste heavy, but this one was delicate.

The charred corn was sweet and juicy with pops of crunchiness, and the rocket salad complemented the creamy slaw well.

This dish reminded me of my American holidays; crunchy yet juicy fried chicken, drizzled in sweet maple and mustard dressing.

Next time, I think I’ll try the halloumi or truffle fries on the side of this dish.

I thoroughly enjoyed it. For me, a touch more mustard would help to cut through and restrain the sweetness of the maple syrup.

But, this brunch dish is only £14 and is a great value for money.

With plans to start a Friday and Saturday tasting menu on April 4, this is set to be an exciting hangout for all and certainly worth a trip to Boroughbridge.


Read more:



Download the FREE Stray Ferret app here to access the latest news, competitions and offers.