Stray Jewels: Christmas Stocking Fillers

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

I was talking about the jewellery of Elizabeth Taylor recently. Her whole collection made over $100 million when it came up for auction ten years ago. From pearls to diamonds, sapphires to emeralds, she knew how to collect jewellery. Married eight times to seven different men, Taylor was never going to be short of jewellery, be it engagement rings or for Christmas presents.

Rubies featured heavily in her collection and in her 1968 Christmas stocking was a gorgeous ruby and diamond ring. Richard Burton had always said to her, “One day I’m going to find you the most perfect ruby in the world”. The ring in question featured an 8.24 carat ruby and was known as the ‘Puertas ruby, diamond and gold ring‘. It sold for over $4 million at the sale. Ruby is the stone of passion and perfect as a Christmas gift.

If you have a passion for rubies you certainly don’t need to pay over $4 million for one. Whether your budget is a couple of hundred or a few thousand, always look for a bright and lively stone that doesn’t have surface scratches. As with the late Victorian ring illustrated, a few coloured stones give a real impact to the design.

A Late Victorian Ruby and Diamond Ring

On one occasion Taylor received a pair of Georgian earrings as a Christmas stocking gift. She had spotted them on a shopping trip months before with Mike Todd, but had decided against them because they were set with paste and not diamonds. Todd secretly bought the earrings and had all the paste stones replaced with diamonds – now that is a thoughtful gesture.

Diamond earrings are a perfect gift at Christmas and even more gorgeous when paired with pearls. At Elstob & Elstob auctioneers early this year, there were a pair of beautiful pearl and diamond ear pendants in the form of acorns, pictured top. The acorn is a symbol of life, fertility, and immortality. As the seed of the great Oak tree, the acorn symbolizes potential and strength. What a perfect gift to receive at Christmas as we head into the New Year.

Mistletoe Costume Jewellery Brooch

For those true romantics, jewellery themed around mistletoe is a must. Mistletoe has a great history. It is associated with ancient Rome which had many different festivals to celebrate the gods. One of them was the Saturnalia held from 17-23 December. This festival was in honour of Saturn, the god of agriculture, seedtime and harvest. The mistletoe was hung up during the Saturnalia festival and it was traditional to kiss under the mistletoe as it was seen as a symbol of fertility. Each fruit on the mistletoe branch has a cross symbol and this has become associated with a kiss. Gifts would be given on 23 December, unlike our traditional 25th.

Jewellery doesn’t always have to be made of precious gems and metals. The image above is of a pretty costume piece of mistletoe jewellery set with faux pearls. Lovely condition and many costume pieces can be a little as £10-20.

If Christmas jumpers aren’t your thing then maybe a Christmas jewel is!

Merry Christmas.

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Stray Jewels: The art of archeological inspired jewellery

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan examines the work of 19th century Italian jeweller, Fortunato Pio Castellani

Whilst browsing through the catalogue for the forthcoming jewellery sale at Tennants on November 13, I was drawn to the most fabulous bangle that is on offer. Lot 2396, an ‘Archaeological Etruscan Revival Style Bangle’. It is made of gold and is set with cornelian scarabs within swivel mounts. The bangle has a pre-sale estimate of £4,000-6,000. Although not dated in the catalogue, the jeweller who made it must have been a great fan of one of the most important archaeological revival jewellers of all time, Fortunato Pio Castellani.

Many Victorian and even contemporary jewellery designers have been drawn to his work due to the boldness in design. Castellani jewellery is highly sought after by collectors. In 2006 Sotheby’s Auctioneers in New York sold the ‘Judith H Siegal Collection of Castellani & Giuliano Jewellery’. Siegal’s collection was put together over 20 years and brought together some of the finest works of art that were produced by these jewellers. In the collection was a beautiful gold bangle also set with scarabs, by Castellani.

Who was Castellani?

A gold bracelet by Castellani, circa 1860, sold for £20,000

The firm was founded by Fortunato Pio Castellani and the style of jewellery that was produced was known as Italian Archaeological Jewellery. Fortunato opened his shop in Rome in 1814. In 1826 he met Michaelango Caetani who became his life long friend and collaborator. It was Michaelango who inspired Fortunato to imitate the gold work of the ancient world and get inspiration for his jewellery from ancient jewels. His work was an instant hit.

The thriving business was continued by two of Fortunato’s sons, Alessandro (1823-1883) and Augusto (1829-1914). The jewellery was extraordinary. Works of art in gold and set with micro mosaics, enamel, scarabs and decorative techniques of granulation and filigree work. This was the destination shop for the Grand Tourist of the 19th century. The pieces are identified by a very distinctive mark of interlaced C’s.

In the November 2020 jewellery sale, Tennants offered a gold bracelet by Castellani which sold for £20,000. Despite being dated circa 1860, the curved batons give an almost contemporary feel to the bracelet. The lion heads terminals on the bracelets draw us back to the revival style.

The Popularity of Victorian Revival Jewellery

A Victorian Millefiori ‘froggy brooch’ sold for £3,800

Victorian jewellery certainly doesn’t appeal to everyone and comes in and out of favour within the auction world. What has never changed is the fascination with the Archaeological, Egyptian or Renaissance Revival jewels of the mid Victorian period. The Castellani family exhibited their jewellery at the 1862 International Exhibition in London and as a result their popularity grew in Britain. Jewellers were copying their style well into the 1890’s. Even pieces which are not attributed to a specific designer do well at auction, particularly when they are well executed. In their Spring Sale earlier this year, Tennants had a delightful Archaeological Revival Millefiori Brooch, dated circa 1880, within a fitted case – always a bonus. This was a particularly quirky brooch as there was a frog motif to the pendant and was referred to as “froggy brooch”, by the original owners.

Victorian jewellery may appear quite serious but it as we can see it can be great fun too! Happy jewellery hunting.

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Stray Jewels: Jewels with the James Bond seal of approval

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan takes a closer look at the jewels with a link to various Bond films. 

The jewellery scene is really great at the moment. Jewellery specialists in shops, auction houses and antiques fairs across our county are getting into pre-Christmas swing and of course, the new series of the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow is now being aired, which helps to fuel excitement.

There are lots of lovely jewels to share with you on a monthly basis and inspire you to browse our local shops, fairs and auction houses for inspiration.

What we all need when buying jewellery is a bit of luck. I adored the clover brooch, lot 1444, that sold for £400 (plus buyers premium), on the 17th September at Elstob & Elstob Auctioneers. It wasn’t the most expensive item in the sale, but it was absolutely my favourite.

By the time this article is published many of you will have seen the new Bond Film ‘No Time To Die’ and witnessed the magnificent jewels that are featured in the film. Having viewed the Elstob & Elstob Jewellery sale there are a number of jewels that can find an association (and I know, a rather tenuous association), with previous Bond Films! Never the less they are, for me, the other picks of the sale.

Make sure you read to the end of the article as you could seriously have a piece of jewellery, by a brand that did supply to a number of Bond films. The firm David Morris, adorned a number of leading ladies in various Bond Movies…but I think you might need to be quick to snap up this particular lot – so read on!

Lots 1521 and 1524 were two moonstone and diamond rings

I love moonstones and you guessed it, the tenuous link is “Moonraker” (1979). Lots 1521 and 1524 in the sale were two gorgeous moonstone and diamond rings both sold for £1,000. Moonstones are magical and romantic and are the gemstone representing the 3rd wedding anniversary. The ancient Romans and Greeks associated moonstones with their lunar deities and the Romans believed that moonstone were solidified rays of the moon. Moonstones have a beautiful luminescence and it isn’t surprising that they are associated with inspiring passion, creativity and most importantly bringing good fortune.

Passion and creativity are definitely seen in the works of Fabergé the Russian master of jewellery. There is an exhibition of Fabergé opening at the Victorian & Albert Museum, London, in November this year.

In the Bond film ‘Octopussy’ (1983), a ‘ Fabergé egg’ (obviously not an original), was featured, (“lot 48”, in the film’s auction – “an enamelled egg with blue sapphires”).

In Elstob’s sale a Russian enamelled egg, lot 1107, sold for £110, against an estimate of £100-150. It was a miniature egg and it was Russian…how lovely!

A Russian enamelled egg

But obviously it is not just auctions and our fabulous Yorkshire regional antique shops, galleries and markets that get us excited about jewels… films do too.

When it comes to jewels and fashion, James Bond and his leading ladies really epitomise glamour and ultimate style. At the Premiere, The Duchess of Cambridge shone in a stunning dress by Jenny Packham and a pair of earrings by O’nitaa. Other brands were showcased, fabulous jewels by Chopard, Tiffany, Ana Khouri, Sean Leane, Ara Vartanian and Jessica McCormack – what a sparkling display.

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At Elstob & Elstob’s on line sale (ends 3rd October at 6pm), you still have the chance to have a taste of that James Bond glamour style. Lot 1559, estimated at £1,000-1500, is a diamond ring by David Morris, an exceptional contemporary jeweller. David Morris supplied jewels for numerous Bond films, including ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, ‘The Man with the Golden Gun’, ‘The World is Not Enough’ and ‘Tomorrow Never Dies’.

Still unsure what jewels to buy? Slight hint…’Diamonds are Forever’ (1971). Happy jewellery hunting.

Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Gold Rush

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This month, Susan explores the importance of gold jewellery. 

As we celebrate all the gold medals achieved by our talented sports men and women at the Olympic and Paralympic Games, I thought it would be appropriate to look at the importance of gold jewellery in the 19th century.

We are used to both white and yellow gold being used in jewellery today, but for the majority of the 19th century it was yellow gold that was popular in jewellery manufacture. Although you will find hallmarks on Victorian jewellery, many pieces are not hallmarked from this period, as the British hallmarking act didn’t come into law until 1973. During the Victorian period 18 carat gold was used for the finest pieces of gold, but by 1854, 9, 12 and 15 carat gold were introduced, making jewellery more accessible and affordable.

An early 19th century Cannetille work and Amethyst Pendant

Very early in the 19th century gold had often just been used as a backing for precious gemstones and to add strength to a setting. By the second decade we see the introduction of cannetille work. This decoration was made up of tiny gold granules and very fine curled wires, inspired by ancient Greece. For many this style was too intricate and easily damaged so by the 1840’s we see the introduction of more solid jewellery that is decorated with repousse work – designs were raised in relief by hammering the gold from the back of the piece, often further embellished with textured detail.

Further embellishment of gold pieces was introduced during the reign of Queen Victoria. To reflect an early period of peace and prosperity in her reign, jewellery became an important way of showing off wealth. As both Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert were keen on fashion and jewellery, the industry boomed and designers were free to express their artistic talent.

Early 19th century fine gold and gem set necklace, circa 1840 (left); Victorian gold snake and heart brooch, circa 1880 (right)

By the 1850’s there was a huge interest in revival styles. One designer that was particularly important was the Italian Fortunato Pio Castellani. He brought the old Greek process of granulation back into fashion again and reproduced ancient pieces of jewellery. As a result gold jewellery in the Etruscan style was in abundance.

Victorian Gold, Peridot and Garnet Bracelet, circa 1880

Women’s roles and attitudes developed throughout the Victorian period and we see their position in society become more important by the 1860’s. This was reflected in very bold gold jewellery. Lockets, earrings and brooches took on a very large and angular look, reflecting power. Bangles often came in pairs – one worn on each wrist and other bracelets piled on the arm. Victorian magazine, The World of Fashion, stated that ‘Bracelets are now considered indispensable’ and went onto describe that it was fashionable to wear at least five bracelets all at once including ‘a bracelet of gold network fastened with a simple narrow ribbon’.

Today, Victorian jewellery is often seen as over the top in design and too fussy. As a result, with the ever fluctuating price of gold, it is often tempting for people to ‘scrap’ their Victorian jewellery, particularly when the gold price is high. However, the demand for good quality, unusual Victorian jewellery is high amongst collectors. So, if you are thinking of selling, make sure you have a jewellery specialist value your jewellery for its true worth… and not just its weight in gold!

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Stray Jewels: a heads up on tiaras

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This month, Susan looks at the history of tiaras – and where they are worn today. 

The word tiara is now used to describe a number of types of hair ornaments, however the origins of the tiara go back to the worlds of ancient empires, where they expressed status and supremacy. The popularity of tiaras throughout history is extraordinary, a chance for ladies to impress and dazzle at society events and an opportunity for a bride to really shine as she walks down the aisle.

Today, anyone can wear a tiara and the etiquette about when a tiara is worn is far more relaxed than it was during the 19th and early 20th century, when they were only worn at weddings or white tie events. In 1909 Tatler reported that, “the tiara was now worn on all sorts of unsuitable occasions. Nowadays one sees them at the play, at small parties, and at dinner in restaurants. Then the modern bride expects at least a couple of tiaras amongst her wedding presents and four or five are sometimes seen at smart marriages. There is the story of the woman who returned to London after some time away and found that even those marrying on an income of £500 a year expected a tiara”.

The traditional rules of tiara wearing

This diamond set tiara (c1900) from Tennants can also be worn as a necklace

Ancient etiquette said that a tiara should only be worn for the first time on the occasion of marriage –  symbolic of the loss of innocence and the crowning of love. Tradition also demanded that the bride wore a tiara from her own family’s collection on her wedding day, but thereafter wore only those from her husband’s family.

After Queen Victoria’s wedding, which was held at 3.30pm with celebrations going on well into the night, it became acceptable to wear tiaras from the middle of the afternoon as well as at a morning wedding. However, a tiara was never worn in an hotel.

Famously Princess Margaret broke with tradition by wearing the Poltimore Tiara, on the day of her wedding to Antony Armstrong-Jones which had been purchased from Lord Poltimore in 1959, for £5,500. It was sold again at auction in 2006 for a whopping £926,400.

Tiaras are rising in popularity at auction. A beautiful example appeared in the jewellery sale at Tennants auctioneers in May this year. Dating from 1900 it was composed of diamond set floral scroll drops, set on a band of diamonds. The piece could also be worn as a necklace. It sold for £10,000 against an estimate of £3,000-5,000.

How to wear a tiara

18 carat gold and diamond tiara with satin finish – available to hire from Ogdens

Tiaras must fit properly. They may be sewn into a section of braided hair, or extra pins are used for security. Hair that has not been washed on the day the tiara is worn is better than hair that is washed as it can tend to be too smooth. This also makes it easier to hide the band on which the decoration sits.

Tiara Wearing Today

A Victorian gold and silver tiara set with stars – available to hire from Ogdens

There are increasingly rare occasions these days when tiaras are absolutely essential. However, one must be worn to the Lord Mayor’s Banquet, the State Opening of Parliament and state receptions for foreign dignitaries. Sir Elton John holds an annual “White Tie and Tiara Party” to raise funds for Aids charities and it is obligatory to wear one to this prestigious event.

Tiaras can of course be worn at private parties as well as weddings and today one can hire a tiara for that special occasion. Ogdens of Harrogate has two tiaras to hire out, both are gorgeous. A delightful 18 carat white gold and diamond tiara which has lovely satin finished flowers, which set off the diamonds beautifully. Or the Victorian 18 carat gold and silver tiara which is made up of diamond set stars, set with 126 diamonds. In Victorian symbolism, star motifs were representative of guidance through stages of life – what a perfect choice for a wedding day.

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Celebrating the Brands

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan takes a closer look at some of the biggest brand names in jewellery, ahead of a special jewellery sale at Ripon based auctioneers Elstob & Elstob. 

 

Brand culture has dominated jewellery sales for decades, just as it has with handbags. Vintage pieces from top designers such as Chanel, Bulgari, Chopard, Theo Fennell and Baccarat are becoming highly sought after – the trend for old style glamour from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s is on the rise. People are prepared to forego the boutique experience to obtain a luxury brand at a more affordable price, by buying second hand.

The Elstob & Elstob jewellery sale on the 24 July includes some great pieces of designer jewellery. Two names that are well known in the contemporary designer jewellery world are Chopard and Bulgari. Both feature in the sale and believe it or not, both brands have their roots in the 19th century.

Lot 1731: Chopard Happy Diamonds Necklace

Lot 1731, the Chopard Happy Diamond Pendant, estimated at £600-800, is full of fun and playfulness. The brand name is etched on the crystal – fabulously subtle. Chopard introduced this range of jewellery in the 1970s and is still one of their great sellers today. The diamonds float or ‘dance’ inside the mounts. Ingenuity in design was key for the Swiss founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard (1836-1915), who trained as a watchmaker. By establishing links with clients such as Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, he gained a superb international reputation. By the late 1950’s Chopard had been taken over by a German, Karl Scheufele III, who was to take the company to the next level. He retained the exceptional quality and design upon which brand had built their reputation. Karl’s wife Karin developed the lady’s jewellery collection and today it is a favourite brand seen worn at many award ceremonies, particular Cannes, where they have had a link since 1998. If you want a taste of the jewellery worn on the red carpet – this pendant is definitely for you.

Lot 1733: Bulgari Pair of 18ct Gold Reva Collection Diamond Pendant Earrings

A bit of a punchier branded look is seen in two of the lots which are by Bulgari. Lot 1733, A Pair of Gold Earrings set with diamonds, estimated at £500-800 and lot 1732, A Diamond Ring, estimated at £1,000-1,500. Both are from the Reva Collection.

The history of Bulgari also goes back to the 19th century, when Sotirios Bulgari founded the firm. By the middle of the 20th century they were attracting big names, such as Sophia Loren, Merle Oberon and Audrey Hepburn as clients. Elizabeth Taylor famously said the only Italian word she needed to know was ‘Bulgari’!

By the 1980s Bulgari had introduced jewellery that expressed the success of the women wearing it. Remember Dynasty? Power dressing was everything. Andy Warhol said, “I think your jewellery is the 1980’s. Everybody’s trying to copy this look.” Bulgari were the influencers then and their pieces are highly collectable today.

Lot 1737: Three Baccarat Coloured Glass Rings

If the bold branded pieces don’t quite appeal, perhaps the Baccarat rings Lot 1737 will be of interest. The rings may be contemporary but the firm was established in 1765. Over the centuries Baccarat adapted and refined the crystal that they were using to make it world class, receiving many design awards along the way. The business concentrated on chandeliers, bottles, paperweights and decanters amongst other things and didn’t start to design jewellery until the 1990s. The rings in the sale are great fun – perfect for brightening up your day. Baccarat chandeliers sell for tens of thousands of pounds, but estimated at £100-150, these rings seem a very reasonable way to acquire a piece of history.

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Sapphires Aren’t All Blue

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan looks at one of her favourite gemstones: sapphires. 

 

I recently looked at an amazing multi-coloured sapphire bracelet by the Swiss gem suppliers, designers and gemstone laboratory experts Gubelin on the Antiques Roadshow and many clients have been amazed at the variety of different coloured sapphires that were in the bracelet.

A multi coloured sapphire bracelet by Gubelin, circa 1970

Myths, Legends and Famous Stones

Sapphire is from the Greek word Sappheiros meaning blue and was associated with the God Apollo and with celestial power. It is the birthstone for September and is the stone that represents the 45th wedding anniversary. It also symbolises sincerity, truth, faithfulness and nobility. The Greeks and Romans believed that it would protect them from harm and the envy of others.

In our Crown Jewels there is a sapphire set in the Imperial State Crown which weighs 104 carats and is called the Stuart Sapphire. Wallace Simpson, Duchess of Windsor owned an adorable panther brooch made by Cartier in 1949. The leopard is leaning over a 157.35 carat cabochon polished sapphire. It is stunning. In 2011 Christie’s sold the jewellery collection of Elizabeth Taylor and within the collection was a sapphire and diamond necklace by Bulgari which sold for over $5 million.

A blue, yellow and pink sapphire bracelet with aquamarines and diamonds, circa 1950

Colour

The traditional colour of sapphire is of course blue, with a variety of different shades depending upon where the sapphire has originated from. The finest stones are said to originate in Kashmir, Sri Lanka (Ceylon) or Myanmar (Burma) and untreated gems from these regions can command very high prices. Kashmir sapphires are no longer mined as supplies ran out by 1920, so they are particularly sought after. Sapphires from Kashmir and Myanmar tend to be a mid blue with a beautiful velvety appeal. Those from Sri Lanka tend have a cornflower blue colour. Another popular source for sapphires, particularly in the 1970’s and 80’s was South Africa. These tend to be a much darker blue.

A Pink Sapphire and Diamond Ring

The chemical name for sapphire is corundum and the chemical composition is Aluminium Oxide. Each colour is caused by differing chemicals. Blue – iron and titanium; green – iron or iron with titanium; yellow – iron; purple – iron, titanium and chromium; pink – chromium; colour change sapphire which changes from blue to purple – chromium, vanadium, iron and titanium; orange colour is caused by the presence of iron. One of the rarest colours is a peachy colour which is caused by iron and chromium and known as padparadscha.

Detail of peach padparadscha sapphire

What to look for when buying a sapphire

Whatever your preferred colour there are some key factors to take into consideration when buying a stone. Make sure that the colour is uniform throughout the stone. The colour should be bright and lively and have an intensity but not to the point that it looks dark and lifeless. Sapphires are quite hard stones, just below diamond on the official hardness scale, but are prone to chipping and wear. Check that the surface of the stone isn’t badly scratched. Scratches can be polished out, but this does mean the size/carat weight of the stone will be reduced. The internal quality/clarity of the stone is also extremely important. Crystal inclusions are common in gemstones and do add character but the clearer the stone the more valuable it will be. Inclusions can be mesmerising and are particularly fascinating when they form a star effect in the sapphire. This is a result of the light reflecting on inclusions called rutile needles which have formed in a particular way within the sapphire.

A Pair of Victorian Sapphire and diamond Earrings, circa 1880

Next time you notice how blue the sky is, think of the ancient Persians. They believed that the Earth rested on a giant sapphire that turned the sky blue -how fantastic that would be!

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Art Deco Delights

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. This week Susan takes a closer look at Art Deco jewellery, including how it developed and the key influencers.

 

I have been really looking forward to getting back on the road and viewing auctions and visiting antique shops. I didn’t have to venture too far from The Gallery for my first trip out, just around the corner to Morphets Auctioneers, whose Fine Art Sale included just over 150 lots of jewellery and didn’t fail to disappoint.

The jewellery was from two private estates and featured a whole range of jewellery including Georgian, Edwardian contemporary Scandinavian and 1970’s jewellery. One of the private collections was full of Art Deco pieces and the proceeds of the collection were going to St Gemma’s Hospice in Leeds.

Art Deco continues to be one of the most collected styles in Jewellery. It is bold in design, exquisite in execution and although only spanning the 1920’s and 30’s it is timeless. The visual appeal of the period was seen in the Great Gatsby film and of course Downton Abbey, both productions raising the popularity of the style.

Lot 329- A Sapphire and Diamond Ring

How did the style develop?

The style came after the more delicate Edwardian period. Following the first world war fashion became bolder and jewellery needed to follow suit. Lot 329- A Sapphire and Diamond Ring, shows the transition from delicate to a more geometric design. This ring sold for £950. A more bold and solid approach to design, was reflected in lot 343- An Art Deco Diamond Plaque Ring. Many people re designed their jewels in the Art Deco period and this ring is a typical example, set with old European cut diamonds, dating from the 1890s but within a 1920’s mount. This beautiful ring sold for £1,000. 

Lot 343- An Art Deco Plaque ring

Characteristics of the Art Deco Style

Colour contrasts, geometric shapes, asymmetrical designs and big compositions. This was represented in a number of lots in the sale. In particular lot 299, A Pair of Diamond Dress Clips c1935 which sold for £2,400. The double clips which can be worn as one brooch or separated and worn on jacket lapels incorporated brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, round and oblong respectively.

Lot 329- An Art Deco Double Clip Brooch Circa 1935

The idea of incorporating such different cuts was to bring variety and movement to the solid composition. The modern brilliant-cut diamond developed in the 1920’s brings more brilliance to the diamond with more facets than had ever been seen before. Lot 315- An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring which sold for £3,000, and Lot 365- An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring which sold for £1,500 both emphasise the passion for big statement rings during this period.

Lot 315- An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Ring

Lot 365- An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring

Jewellery Designers and Influences

Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels are amongst the most well known fine jewellers of the period. The sale featured a couple of pieces by the less well known firm Alabaster and Wilson, a family run firm founded in 1887 and based in Birmingham. They were asked by the Racing Post to make a diamond and enamel racing horse brooch for Her Majesty the Queen’s 90th Birthday – a great honour. Lot 302 in the sale, The Jardiniere (basket of flowers) Brooch, was made by them and sold for £550.

Lot 302- The Jardiniere Brooch

Jardiniere brooches had been made popular by Cartier and as a result jewellers were quick to produce their own interpretations of the theme. This brooch was dated circa 1935 and shows how by this time more semi-precious stones such amethysts, garnets, citrines and peridots were being used in jewellery. These stones continued to be incorporated into jewellery throughout the 1940’s and 50’s and jewellery design also continued to feature some of the characteristics of Art Deco Jewellery.

I absolutely loved this piece, an abundance of colour in a basket! Summer really is just around the corner.

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: the timeless allure of pearls

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

 

Many feel that pearls are old fashioned, but they have been worn by many style icons, including Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor and Michelle Obama and sale results continue to show pearls are very much in vogue.

De Vrooman; A Cultured Pearl Sapphire and Diamond Necklace. Sold for £2,200.

In 2011 Elizabeth Taylor’s Collection of jewellery came up for auction. The price of one necklace shocked the world. It contained a pearl that had once belonged to Mary I of England, known as ‘La Peregrina’. Richard Burton had bought the pearl at auction in 1969 for $37,000 as a Valentine Day’s gift for Elizabeth. She had it remounted by Cartier. In 2011 against a pre-sale estimate of $2,000,000 – $3,000,000 , it sold for just over $11 million. This sent the pearl world into a frenzy! From auction houses to the high street, pearls became highly prized and highly priced. The market has settled down over the last few years but premium prices can still be achieved for the finest examples, especially when they are accompanied by certificates to state that they are natural pearls or if made by important designers. In their sale Elstob & Elstob had a pearl, sapphire and diamond necklace by the award winning jewellery designers De Vrooman which sold for £2,200. A sophisticated look with exceptional cultured pearls.

What are pearls?

A natural pearl forms when a parasite or some other foreign matter enters the oyster or mussel shell. The mollusc then deposits layers of nacre around the intruder to soothe the irritation. Nacre is made up of a combination of calcium carbonate, conchiolin and water. Cultured pearls are farmed and the irritation is started by introducing a piece of shell (or mantle) into the pearl – hence the name ‘cultured’. Natural can pearls still command an exceptionally high price but I’ve not heard of anyone exchanging pearls for property recently, as the jewellers Cartier did in 1916, in New York. The necklace in question was valued at over $1 million. Masie and Morton Plant saw the necklace in the window and agreed to swap their mansion on Fifth Avenue for the necklace. The introduction of cultured pearls by Kokichi Mikimoto made pearls available to the masses and as a result natural pearl market suffered and in 1956 when Maisey’s necklace came up for auction it made $150,000!

An Edwardian Natural Pearl, Diamond and Enamel Pendant. Sold for £3,200.

Cultured pearls today

There are an abundance of cultured pearls available today. Saltwater Akoya pearls remain popular, mainly from Japan and China. South Sea and Tahitian pearls are all popular but can be quite expensive. Cultured pearls from Japan have made larger pearls more accessible and more affordable than the warm water varieties.

A Pair of Edwardian Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Earrings. Sold for £1,200.

What to look for when buying pearls

When buying natural pearls it is very important that they are accompanied by a laboratory certificate Elstob & Elstob sold two lovely pairs of natural saltwater pearl earrings. Both had good a lustre (shine) and surface condition. The Pearls also matched well in each pair. Whether natural or cultured uniformity in size and shape is key. This will help to maintain value. Smaller pearls are also popular especially when set in pretty pendants such as the enamel and diamond example illustrated. This dates from the Edwardian period and the central pearl was also accompanied by a certificate. This helped it reach its sale value of £3,200.

A Pair of Natural Saltwater Pearl and Diamond Pendant Earrings. Sold for £2,800.

Looking after pearls

The oils in our skin help the pearls to look shiny and enhance the lustre when we wear them, but at the same time the oils are destructive to the pearls. Once you have worn pearls its is really important to wipe them before you put them back in the box. Pearls don’t have the hardness or durability of many gemstones, so we really do need to treat them gently.

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Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Amethyst and Aquamarine

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

 

Big and bold gemstones are a big hit at the moment. The television drama “The Serpent’ has helped to re-ignite the passion for 70’s fashion and jewellery. Two fabulous gemstones that were particularly popular at the time are amethyst and aquamarine. Both stones have been a favourite in jewellery since the 18th century, particularly after extensive sources were found in Brazil. Fine examples of amethysts have also been found in Siberia and featured in many important royal jewels, including those from Russia. They also just happen to be the gemstones that represent February and March in the language of gems.

An Amethyst and Diamond Ring, circa 1930

Fashionable Cuts

Both gemstones suit the emerald-cut (oblong) alongside an older cushion-cut (from the 18th & 19th centuries), as each cut brings out the depth and intensity of colour.

The February birth stone is amethyst bringing warmth to the cold days. The ancient Greeks believed amethyst gems prevented intoxication, as they were associated with Dionysus, the god of wine and revelry! The stones can be light purple or violet in colour through to an a very intense purple. They were often incorporated into Victorian jewels and were very important to the Suffragette movement of the early 20th century. The Suffragettes were fighting for women to be able to vote in public elections. Last month I wrote about acrostic jewellery – where a message of love or a person’s name could be spelled out by using gemstones, taking the first letter of each gemstone to spell out the name or message. The same principle was used by the Suffragette movement to express the purpose of their movement, to “Give Women the Vote”. Give was represented by a green stone such as peridot or tourmaline. Women was represented by white pearls or sometimes diamonds. Vote was represented by amethysts due to the violet colour. Sometimes the colours were reflected in enamelling on pieces of jewellery too. These colours were also particularly fashionable during the 1870-1900 period and consequently many pieces of late Victorian jewellery were worn in the early part of the 20th century to show a woman’s allegiance to the movement.

An Amethyst, Peridot and Pearl pendant, circa 1890

As designs became bolder in jewellery from the 20’s, amethysts would be incorporated with other strong colours to really make a statement – something that was replicated in the 1950’s with fantastic cocktail jewellery and again the 70’s. Being known as semi-precious stones, many amethysts remain affordable when bought both in an auction environment as well as retail, although the Siberian amethysts can fetch thousands of pounds at auction due to their intense and velvety colour.

Aquamarines, the birthstone for March are associated with courage, tranquillity and calmness. The name derives from the Latin words aqua, meaning water and mare, meaning sea, an obvious reference to its water-like colouring. As with amethysts, the depth of colour can vary, from a pale greenish blue to an intense vibrant blue. The stone was particularly fashionable in the Edwardian and Art Deco period as it provided a lovely contrast to diamonds and pearls in jewellery at the time. As a wedding gift from Prince Harry, The Duchess of Sussex received the emerald-cut aquamarine cocktail ring that had belonged to his mother, Diana, Princess of Wales.

A late Victorian aquamarine and seed pearl necklace, circa 1890 and contemporary pear-cut aquamarine earrings

As we emerge from the cold February days and see the purple of the crocus popping up over the Stray, below the lovely bright blue sky on a fresh spring sunny day, why not consider treating yourself to one (or both) of these beautiful stones, bringing a bit of brightness into your jewellery collection.

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