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Mar

Last Updated: 01/03/2024

From ballgowns to Fresh Prince streetwear, the vintage clothing on offer in Harrogate

by John Plummer

| 03 Mar, 2024

Steve Elvidge at Space.

There’s lots to love about vintage clothing. Where retro clothing imitates fashion from past eras, vintage is the real deal. Its authentic, original nature is part of the appeal, with fans often referring to the quality and sometimes even craftsmanship that is without comparison in similar modern pieces.

Vintage clothing — items more than 20 years old — is popular for other reasons, too. Each piece is a rare find and has its own distinctive style. It offers the chance to buy designer brands at a more affordable price. Fans love the cultural eras that vintage clothing represents and the stories it can tell. Compared to mass-produced clothing, it feels personal and unique.

Vintage clothing, along with pre-loved and charity shop pieces, is also part of a wider retail trend in secondhand clothing, driven in part by a more eco-conscious, sustainable approach to fashion that recycles and reuses pieces. It’s in direct contrast to the ‘fast fashion’, disposable ethos of cheap, high-street clothing.

Data analytics and consulting company GlobalData predicts that the UK’s clothes resale market will be worth £7.2bn by 2026, a rise of 39 per cent from 2023.

'An interesting place to shop'

In Harrogate, fans of vintage clothing are in for a treat. With three well-established shops and a recently-opened fourth, there are vintage pieces that appeal to all tastes and styles.

You’ll find high-end clothing harking back to the days of the Swinging 60s and the Roaring 20s. Quirky pieces that were probably even niche for their time. Beautiful hand-embroidered dresses and ballgowns. And streetwear from the 90s and 00s - decades that, to many Harrogate residents, seem like only yesterday.

“For the size of Harrogate, we do very well for vintage,” says Steve Elvidge, owner of Space, which this year celebrates its 15th anniversary in the centre of Harrogate.

When Space launched in 2009, the shopping opportunities for fans of vintage clothing were limited, if non-existent. Steve said:

“When we came to Harrogate, there wasn’t anything like us. There wasn’t much alternative culture of the kind that you find in university places such as Leeds. We offered an interesting place to shop where people could find cool, unique clothing.”

From the start, Steve wanted to appeal to as many people as possible, setting up Space as a collection of 12 units run by independent sellers with their own individual focus, as it remains today. Between them, they offer a wide range of vintage and retro clothing, furniture and homeware. He said:

“We’ve now got designer vintage clothing for the more traditional end of the market but we also have American sportswear and original 60s and 70s items. We get a lot of regulars who live here, as well as visitors and tourists.

"The appeal of vintage has definitely grown over the last decade. People want to buy one-off pieces that you are not going to see on anybody else. And I think there’s a greater awareness of sustainability and a move away from cheap, disposable clothing.”

'Unique, original pieces'

Cathy Smith had a unit in Space during its early days, before opening her own premises on Cold Bath Road in 2010. Since then, she has seen a growing interest in vintage and pre-loved clothing, and agrees that Harrogate has a nice mix of shops catering for all styles and tastes.

Her boutique, Catherine Smith Vintage, has gained a strong reputation mainly through word of mouth, and welcomes regular customers both from the local area and from London. Cathy said:

“I’m one of the few people who sells high-end genuine, rare vintage as well as high-end, pre-loved modern pieces. I have clothing, jewellery and accessories from designers such as Chanel, Hermes and Dior. The chances are that I'll have the rare pieces you’d normally only get in London or specialist shops.”

Among Cathy’s personal vintage favourites are 1920s flapper dresses, Chanel jewellery, and the Art Deco period and its later influence on 1970s designer brands such as Biba and Ossie Clark. But the range in her boutique can go back as far as the Victorian period, and she also tries to curate a vintage collection that reflects current catwalk trends.

She has recently been looking at pieces by Jean Paul Gaultier and Tom Ford for Gucci and YSL, because “the 1990s has been having a real revival.” She said:

“My range appeals most to people who want to put unique, original pieces into a modern wardrobe. I have customers who are looking for something specific and are real vintage connoisseurs, while others just pop in for a browse.”

Clothes with a tale to tell

It’s the story behind vintage clothing that appeals to Maggie Ballinger, of Circa on Westmoreland Street. A former history teacher with an interest in fashion, Maggie loves finding pieces with a tale to tell - like the fabulous, vividly-coloured ballgown worn in 1964 by a contestant on the original Come Dancing television show.

Maggie remembers watching the programme as a teenager and being captivated by the dresses, so when one was offered to her, she couldn’t resist and gave it pride of place in the shop. She said:

"It had three petticoats underneath so it stuck out. It was painted in beautiful colours, which surprised me as the show at that time was televised in black and white and I always think of the dresses as light blues and greys. And it was absolutely tiny! The lady that bought it was going to put it on a mannequin in her bedroom so she could look at it, like a piece of art.”

Circa launched in May 2012 and sells vintage clothing as well as modern, more unusual pieces. Maggie expanded the range after lockdown to include homeware and small items of furniture. As with the ballgown, Maggie tends to stock clothing that appeals to her or that she thinks her regular customers will like. Despite finding the stories behind vintage pieces fascinating, she thinks most of her customers are attracted by their distinctive quality. She said:

“It’s very rare that something doesn’t sell. Some of my customers are into a certain era and really know their stuff. The 1980s seems like yesterday to me, but it’s now vintage and really appeals to my younger customers.”

The new vintage

It’s the 80s - as well as the 90s and 00s - that are the focus for Anton and Victoria Webster, the new kids on Harrogate’s vintage block. Their colourful, vibrant shop, Karma Co, on Cold Bath Road, is bursting with streetwear that, as their website says, reflects ‘Fresh Prince flair to grunge goddess vibes’.

The business launched just four months ago and Anton said feedback had been “amazing”. He’s been pleasantly surprised at the mixed demographic of his customers, and has even welcomed a few ‘proper’ celebrities, although he won’t say who. He said:

“People love what we are doing, and that means a lot to me. I love to see people’s reactions when they find something they remember from years ago or have not seen before. We get some customers who are really clued up on vintage streetwear, but others who just like it because it’s casual but it’s got the style.”

A former student of Harrogate Art College, Anton has worked in vintage fashion for 20 years and thinks it appeals to people looking for something that no one else has. Younger customers are also keen on re-using and recycling clothes, and one of Karma’s aims is sustainable fashion that eliminates waste, such as their range of remade items.

Quality is also a big factor, with heavier threads than you’d find today and types of wool that are no longer available. He said:

“The classic sportswear brands like Adidas and Nike are really popular. We love getting rare and limited editions in. We currently have an original 80s Adidas sweatshirt which was only released in Asia and is in perfect condition. I’ve never seen another one like it. People would love to wear it, but I’m tempted to frame it!”

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