Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in the 2022 series of BBC TV’s Masterchef competition.

Every Saturday, Yemi writes on the Stray Ferret about her love of the area’s food and shares cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.

The idea of a tasting menu that transports you to another place has always appealed to me and I had been meaning to go check the Six by Nico experience out but my diary just never worked out. When I heard about the New Orleans theme I knew it was time to finally make it happen; the alluring call of soul food could not be ignored. I was intrigued.

This was my first visit to Six by Nico in Leeds, and I arrived hopeful, drawn by the reputation for inventive concepts at an accessible price point. The atmosphere didn’t disappoint. The room was warm, lively and almost conspiratorial as diners swapped stories of their favourite courses across tables. By the end of the night, I’d made friends with the diners to my left and right, united by our shared experience.

The menu featured a flight of wines and cocktails, which added a celebratory air. A notable omission was a mocktail flight for those choosing to skip alcohol. It felt like an oversight in an otherwise inclusive experience.

Snacks kicked things off, with a chicken and jalapeño dip that was rich and creamy, with a hint of curry that winked at its New Orleans roots. The fresh jalapeño slices brought a lively kick if you were brave enough to try them but I would have preferred my heat to come through in the dip.

The accompanying salt-and-vinegar crisp offered a sharp contrast – crisp and sharp with just enough vinegar to highlight the chicken. I’m not a fan of salt and vinegar crisps and that’s me being polite; I don’t ever eat them but I had to try it and I was delightfully and pleasantly surprised at how delicious it was.

My only criticism is that if you don’t eat it quickly, the creamy chicken softened the crisp; it was still delicious but the high notes were hit when the crunch of the crisp is enjoyed with the soft creaminess of the chicken.

The sourdough bread came with a side of pork fat dripping, which I’ll admit made me hesitant, but one bite put me at ease. The best bit was the crunchy pork crackling, but there wasn’t enough of it and I felt the crackling had more flavour than the dripping.

This was my first experience of pork fat dripping on bread but now that I have had the experience, I will happily pass in the future preferring instead flavoured butter. Other diners loved it and I can see why, because there is something decadent about pork fat – it sounds like something you shouldn’t be eating, but you want to anyway, so you do.

I normally slather my bread with copious amounts of butter but my brain refused to treat pork fat dripping the same way, so I found myself being rather Scrooge-like in my application.

I know sourdough bread is popular but too often I find the crusts too dry, which makes it hard to enjoy. The dripping was best enjoyed with the soft, chewy part of the bread.

The barbecued shrimp and grits arrived next and it was a delicate, harmonious plate. The shrimp were a bit crispy, soft with a bite and smoky, resting on creamy grits topped with a whisper-light foam. The micro herbs offered a hint of freshness, making this a beautifully balanced dish. The texture of the shrimp was needed to balance the creamy grit.

Then came the boudin ball: smoked tasso [south Louisiana smoked ham] and andouille sausage deep-fried to crisp perfection, complemented by burnt apple purée and mustard apple mostarda. The purée’s sweetness tempered the mustard’s sharpness and rounded out the saltiness of the sausage. It felt like a lesson in balance.

There was a tomato dish called the Central Grocery Muffuletta, which was a unique take on a sandwich, and all I can say is you’ve got to try it.

My standout dish was the gumbo. The pollock was so beautifully cooked that the fish glistened as you cut into it with the juice catching your eyes and breath. Cajun-spiced and smoky, it offered the best of both worlds of comfort and sophistication. The Cajun kick could have been more assertive, but the accompanying squash and brown crab sauce gave the plate richness, and the pickled carrot added a welcome burst of acidity. The popcorn rice cake, however, felt a bit too dense, dry and salty for its role.

The crispy prawn po’ boy was another almost-there moment. The prawns were delicious, with a creamy, delicate sauce that sang of the sea, but the sourdough bread was too dry perhaps because it was a thinner slice so the soft bits you could enjoy were limited. A softer, lighter roll would have elevated the experience.

The Louisiana fried chicken came beautifully cooked, yielding tender, juicy meat again showcasing another masterclass in how to cook chicken. Its accompanying black garlic emulsion was bold and punchy and the generous amount on the plate was artfully placed but it was too much for the rest of the plate.

The sweetcorn cream was deliciously rich and tasted beautiful. I missed the smoky charred notes that should have been delivered by the grilled sweetcorn garnish as it looked and tasted boiled rather than grilled. Grilling it would have deepened its flavour.

The chicken jus, however, was an unmitigated success; it was deep, savoury, and delicious. It was light and packed full of flavour.

We finished with the banana Fosters dessert, which surprised me. I’ve never been a huge fan of banana sweets, but the crème fraîche sorbet was light and crisp, and the vanilla beignet was a welcome sight.

The cocoa nib added a welcome crunch and it was so good that I would happily have a bag as a snack any day; the rum dulce de leche was sheer indulgence and would elevate anything it’s added to.

One of the diners talked about once queueing for two hours in New Orleans for some beignets and this raised my hopes, which I must say weren’t fully met because of inconsistencies in the frying. The beignets felt a touch too oily, but flavour-wise, it was a strong, memorable end to the night.

Six by Nico delivers an experience that’s both inventive and approachable, making fine dining feel inclusive. The New Orleans menu captured the vibrancy and richness of its theme, and despite a few textural missteps, it felt like a journey worth taking. 

Will I be back? Absolutely! I’m already looking forward to exploring their next theme.

If you’re craving a dining experience that sparks conversation, connections, and memorable bites, make a reservation at Six by Nico. It’s worth the adventure. As a wise chef once said, “A recipe has no soul. You, as the cook, must bring soul to the recipe.” Let Six by Nico bring its soul and adventurous spirit to your plate – and you won’t be disappointed.

I’m off to Canada and the USA now, and will be on the lookout for exciting dishes and food finds to share with you.