Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in last year’s BBC TV’s Masterchef  competition. Every Saturday, Yemi will be writing on the Stray Ferret about her love of the district’s food  and sharing cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe. 

 

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I was excited to try out head chef Samira Effa’s new menu at Bar & Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall near Ripon.

I first knew of Samira from the Great British Menu competition where she was my choice to win. She suggested the eight-course tasting menu.

The first course of fragrant Tom Kha Gai with rice crisp topped with chilli miso ketchup and sorrel was a silky-smooth and well-balanced soup with high notes of lemongrass, citrus, subtle heat level, the right amount of sweetness and great depth of flavour.

With a great mouth-feel, flavours that thankfully lingered on, I couldn’t help licking my lips to capture every last sensation. The rice wafer dissolved on the tongue and the heat from the addictive ketchup started as a slow burn that crept up on you. This course was a ‘smack you in the face’ kind of flavour and a wonderful start to the dinner.

The second course of Warrendale Wagyu beef tataki with sesame ponzu, daikon, onions and shiso had a calming effect on the tastebuds, almost as though it was gently courting you. The toasty and spiced notes from the sesame seeds and oil were beautiful.

The slightly pickled daikon, light and fresh with the right amount of crunch, was served with lightly seared and dressed tender beef. The emulsion was like a great mayonnaise on steroids and the magic happened when you put everything together, as it resulted in a taste sensation that was light, elegant and delicious. This course took your tastebuds in a completely different direction, which made it impossible to compare with the earlier course.

The fourth course of roast cauliflower satay, coconut, kafir lime, and coriander made me see the vegetable in a whole new light. Who knew cauliflower could be sexy?

Cauliflower delight

Cauliflower roasted in masala spice nestling on a bed of silky-smooth purée that was as light as air, topped with a drizzle of light satay sauce. The stunning lime gel brought everything together with a burst of sweetness and sharpness that awakened your taste buds. I had a 'happy laugh’ in my belly as this course made me smile with joy. I scraped my plate clean which is really something for someone who doesn’t usually like cauliflower. Like Oliver Twist, I wanted more.

The fish course of robata grilled halibut, fragrant shell bisque, Whitby crab gyoza, pak choi and sea herbs had perfectly charred yet juicy fish. The bisque had a great lobster-shell flavour with notes of lemongrass and coconut cream, and the micro herbs lent an aniseed flavour to complete the balance of sweet, salty, sour and umami. The accompanying dumpling had a skin that melted away leaving one to enjoy the delicate crab filling with the pak choi bringing in a juiciness that cleansed your palate, allowing you to experience the flavours all over again.

I was in love with the five-spiced Thirkleby duck breast, crispy confit leg, celeriac and umeboshi plum before I'd even tasted it. The accompanying sounds from my friend and me were all that was needed to confirm the yummy-ness of the dish. Juicy five-spiced duck meat in a crunchy coating, tender and pink duck breast, rich and delicious yet light plum jus and celeriac was a well-executed dish and a perfect way to end the savoury courses.

I couldn’t decide on out my favourite course; I had been taken on a culinary roller coaster journey with each stage as exciting as the previous one. I was eager for the dessert courses.

The glazed Yorkshire strawberry, mint and jasmine dessert was a visual and flavourful triumph. The strawberry sphere with the thinnest shell housed a sublimely light mousse with a mint centre. The meringue shell dissolved as soon it landed on your tongue and before you could say ‘Jack Robinson’, the strawberry shone through this dessert.

I didn’t think the strawberry dessert could be topped until the caramelised white chocolate and cherry, white sesame and tonka came out looking even more visually striking. The mousse, sat on crunchy bits, was like eating an elegant cheesecake, cherry ice cream brought a slight bitterness and the cherry compote was sharp enough to reengage your brain after you went to dessert heaven. The delicious sesame crisp was a sensational nod to an ingredient that popped up in different guises.

We ended the meal with salted caramel dark chocolates with a hint of liqueur. The mocktails were excellent, staff were so attentive they spotted a napkin that had slipped to the floor and brought a clean one.

Overall it was a belter of a meal and we left floating on a gastronomic cloud. Samira has created an eight-course meal that is a delight to eat and easy to fall in love with. Shout out to the incredible head pastry chef (@stefthepastrychef) for doing things with pastry that many of us can only dream of.

I highly recommend you go check out Bar & Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall, where your mind-blowing experience starts as you drive onto their glorious grounds before eating in a fairytale-like dining space.

Next week, I will be writing about my visit to Dutch Barn Orchard Vodka.

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Read more:

• Yemi's Food Stories: A 'sweet day’ at Bettys Cookery School


• Yemi's Food Stories: A visit to Rudding Park's kitchen garden


• Yemi's Food Stories: Memorable weddings with Blossom Tree Cake Company

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