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25
Jan
Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in the 2022 series of BBC TV’s Masterchef competition.
Every Saturday Yemi writes on the Stray Ferret about her love of the area’s food and shares cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.
Every time I cook Nigerian stews, soups, or sauces, I struggle to find the right words to describe them as they are lost in translation.
Some soups are thick like spinach and melon seeds soup and Nigerian 'pepper soup' is actually a broth. We use the words soups, sauce and stews interchangeably which is confusing for non-natives.
Different countries and regions have their versions of slow cooked stews, sauces, and hearty casserole. I still remember when slow cookers had the cult status that air fryers currently enjoy.
A stew typically involves chunks of meat or vegetables simmered in a liquid until everything is tender and the flavours have melded together.
A sauce, on the other hand, is thinner and used to bring dishes together harmoniously often being the star of a dish without overshadowing it.
Casseroles are cooked slowly in the oven, with the ingredients layered to take on a comforting, hearty quality.
Chef Manu Feildel of the Australian TV series My Kitchen Rules always says: 'I need more sauce' and I completely agree that there can’t be too much sauce when it’s delicious.
Many cultures interpret stews, sauces and casseroles differently from okra being added to gumbo to nuts and dried fruits in stews in other parts of the world.
Here are some secrets to bringing them to life in your own kitchen.
Oeuf Aux Meurettes
In Nigeria, beef stew is not chunks of tender meat swimming in a broth; it is a rich, fiery and aromatic sauce.
The process starts with the beef, chicken or goat meat which is boiled with aromats and spices – thyme, rosemary, curry powder ginger, onions and garlic until tender. The meat is fried or grilled to lock in its flavour before being finished in the stew.
The magic lies in the pepper blend - tomatoes, peppers, Scotch Bonnet, ginger, garlic, and onions - fried in oil until deeply caramelised.
Seasoned with thyme, curry powder, and seasoning cubes, the stew is finished with the stock, creating a thick, velvety sauce that clings to every grain of rice or morsel of plantain that it’s served with. When cooked over wood fire, the smokiness takes this stew to unmatched heights in flavour.
Cross over to Morocco, and you’ll find the tagine - a slow-cooked stew named after the earthenware pot it’s cooked in. Tagines celebrate spices like Ras el Hanout, a blend that often includes cinnamon, cumin, coriander, and even rose petals.
Lamb, chicken, or beef is cooked with dried fruits, nuts, and honey, resulting in a dish that’s both savoury and sweet with a hint of sourness.
Tangines are a labour of love and creates a glorious food experience when paired with properly made couscous which is nothing like the 'pour boiling water over couscous grains' travesty.
The French have perfected stews with classics like boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin. The depth of flavour in these dishes results from the slow braising process.
The meat, often from tougher cuts like chuck or shin, is seared to develop a rich crust before the pot is deglazed with wine and added stock.
Aromatics like onions, garlic, and bouquets of fresh herbs are added before simmering until the meat is tender. The result is indulgent and heart-warming dishes with rustic elegance. And the credit for mother sauces and their many 'baby sauces' goes to French gastronomy.
Venison
Closer to home, a British casserole is the epitome of comfort. Think of Lancashire lamb hotpot, where thinly sliced potatoes layer tender meat and vegetables, or a sausage casserole, packed with hearty root veg and a tomato-based sauce.
These dishes are baked in the oven, allowing the top to develop a golden crust with the contents tender and flavourful.
Top tip one: Berbere, an Ethiopian mix of chilli, ginger, fenugreek, and other spices, can transform a simple tomato stew into something extraordinary. It pairs beautifully with lentils or slow-cooked lamb.
Top tip two: Ras el Hanout lends warmth and complexity to roast chicken or vegetables.
Top tip three: Harissa spice or paste will add a depth of flavour to your roasts and casseroles.
Top tip four: use beef rib trims and tougher but cheaper cuts like beef shin, lamb shoulder, or pork belly for slow cooking, as they break down beautifully, creating delicious dishes.
Top tip five: for quicker stews, opt for chicken thighs which are juicy and flavourful.
I hope you will embrace the art of comfort cooking and be bolder with your spices. This week, create a spice blend you’ve never used before and let it guide your dish.
This is the best way to learn about global cuisine. As the Nigerian proverb goes: 'fine words do not produce food'. The real joy is in giving it a go.
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