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06
Nov 2021
Stray Kitchen: Who cares about kippers?
Stray Kitchen is our column all about food written by renowned local produce expert, food writer and chef, Stephanie Moon. Stephanie is a champion of food produced in the UK and particularly in Yorkshire and the Harrogate district.
Who cares about kippers? Well I do, for one! In fact I would say they are a highly underrated. They are not only tasty but healthy to boot. A great food that we do brilliantly here in Yorkshire, and have done for years.
Recently I was watching the Hairy Bikers on TV doing their tour of Yorkshire and it brought back memories of my trip to Fortunes Kippers in Whitby. That trek up Henrietta Street is a climb! The steps up to Fortunes may take your breath away, but it's worth the effort. Fortunes has been owned by the Brown family for 150 years, having opened in 1872. That really is dedication. Now Barry Brown has been joined by his daughter Beth, times are changing with an online shop.
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I recently helped the team at The Yorkshire Event Centre at the Harrogate showground create a canape menu for the Golden Fork Great Taste awards. The supreme product this year, “the best of the best,” was a kipper from Jaffys. The young man who collected his award is now stocked in Fortnum and Masons and Harrods to name a few.
The smoke house is the heart of kipper making. Kippers are smoked in rows upon rows of herring, lined up as if on guard. The herrings are gutted after they have been split by hand, then soaked in a secret brine for a short while. Various wood chip fires are it to create the special blend of smokes that infuse into the herrings, creating the wonder that is kippers.
For me, I like my kippers simply served. However, a kipper pate is super tasty and easy to make. To cook your kippers, simply remove the bones, blend with some melted butter, then add some cream cheese and a splash of double cream. Slowly add some lemon zest and juice before seasoning with a little salt. Delicious!
So who cares for kippers? It appears quite a few of us!
Steph x
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