Stray Kitchen is our monthly column all about food written by renowned local produce expert, food writer and chef, Stephanie Moon. Stephanie studied at Craven College, Skipton. She then did a work placement at London’s five-star hotel/restaurant, The Dorchester. Stephanie was offered a full-time job, where she worked for world-famous chef, Anton Mosimann. 

In the spirit of Autumn and Halloween, Stephanie’s first column will be talking about the delicious ways of using apples in various dishes.

I love this time of year. Our region has a real history with the Great British Apple. Did you know the Ribston Pippin was grown back in 1708 from apple pips which were sent to Henry Goodricke of Ribston Hall? This was the runner up of the Cox’s Orange Pippin.

In Little Ribston, there is still a Ribston Pippin tree growing in the grounds. Nick Smith, the Director of the Harrogate Flower Show, took me along to cook the apples under the tree years ago. This was filmed for Look North. I created my version of an 18th Century recipe ‘A Fraze of Pippins’ (basically a batter-like pancake, heavy on the spices with lots of apples). It was great fun.

Do you have an Apple glut?

My advice is to invest in an ‘apfelschaler’; a plastic contraption (you can get metal ones too) that peels an apple in seconds whilst you wind the handle. When you literally have kilos to peel it really helps.

The apfelschaler peeling an apple.

My Dad gets given boxes of apples and I help him to cook through an apple mountain (not even an exaggeration). We peel, cook the apples and place them in take away pots, lots of apple sauce, and freeze them. I now have a whole shelf of apple sauce in my freezer that is not mine.

Chutney made with apples is mind-blowingly good and great for Christmas gifts. If you make batches it becomes easy (just watch out for apple volcanos), then you cook the chutney as a hit with some boiling hot apple chutney will smart.

But perhaps you have no apples?

If you are lucky enough to look around villages surrounding Harrogate, they give them away for free by the side of the road. Local farm shops and fruit and vegetable shops have fruit racks that are groaning under the strain with every variety – much better than the supermarket fruits that can sometimes be months old.

Stephanie cooking.

There is always the plan to let someone else do the work. Nothing beats an Elite Meat pork and apple burger, a Taylor’s apple cinnamon tea or a Rosebud Preserves wild crab apple jelly.

Can you Adam and Eve it?

Till next time!

For more information on Stephanie Moon’s career in food click here.

Read More:

• Stray Foodie: Frances Atkins reviews the Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge
• Harrogate man cooks incredible 6,000 charity meals

We want to hear your opinions on all things Harrogate. From public transport to shopping, parking to nightlife.

The town is known for its independent shops and wide range of bars and restaurants, ass well as its beautiful scenery across the Stray and beyond.

But, even without covid, times are changing, and some businesses have struggled. The Stray Ferret has reported on several well-known shops having to close down in recent months, with existing struggles compounded by lockdown.

Our big Harrogate survey is still open to everyone over 18 from across the district who uses the town centre for work or leisure.

By clicking here to complete this survey you have the opportunity to give your views on what the town needs, what it can change and what you love about it.

The survey takes about 10 minutes and everyone who takes part will be entered into a prize draw with free gifts – a Stray Ferret umbrella or a 12 pack of special Stray Ferret beer brewed by Harrogate-based Roosters.

The results will be published on The Stray Ferret website to continue the debate about the future of our town.

The Stray Ferret is delighted to announce that legendary Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins, will become… the Stray Foodie!

Frances owned the renowned Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge for 20 years, where she held a Michelin star for 16 of them.

Now Frances is now turning her talent and experience to food reviewing.

From fine-dining restaurants to pop ups, Frances will be visiting all types of catering establishments and writing a review for the Stray Ferret.

Her first review will be published on The Stray Ferret next week on Saturday, September 26.

Frances told The Stray Ferret:

“I would see it as my job to encourage people to stay safe, take care, but at the same time enjoy what is on offer at the moment.

“I’m hoping that [my reviews] will encourage people to visit our industry more and not to be so worried about these times because most people in the hospitality industry are over-cautious now and they care about their customers.

“A friend of mine said to me the other day that he loves reading food reviews because they paint a picture for him, and he feels as if he is there and enjoying it. It also stimulates him to try new dishes at home himself and broadens his horizons, so he absolutely loves them.

“As for business owners, every business wants to be busy; it’s a form of advertising that people will read and see, rather than the establishment just saying they’re the greatest – there’s nothing like word of mouth.

“Also, if somebody builds up a following, a trust, that’s something I have to achieve. I think it’s important that the owners have a confidence in us to want to advertise with us.”

Frances Atkins pictured outside her airstream bus business Paradise Foods.

Frances discusses the possible challenges she may face when writing her reviews.

She said:

“It’s particularly important to give a clear picture of the feeling of the place in the first instance and first impressions. I think it’s important to take a positive view rather than a negative view because everybody’s opinions are always different, and I think during these times it’s very important to produce positive and honest feedback.

“It could be a challenge for me to make sure I don’t let my professionalism interfere with a review on a place that may be structured slightly differently to the way I would run it. Also, not to enjoy myself too much because I’m very good at forgetting when I’m enjoying it – on the other hand, if I am enjoying myself to that degree then that must be a good thing.”

“For me this is an exciting new world, away from the stove – and that’s how I see it. The benefit I see is having a great experience seeing other people’s style and the way people do things.”

“I wouldn’t be criticising; I will be writing about an experience. It’s something that I find exciting because I want to put my experience onto paper.”

After leaving the Yorke Arms, Frances converted an airstream bus into a mobile kitchen business, Paradise Foods, and stationed it at Daleside Nurseries in Killinghall. She was joined by her previous colleagues, John Tulett and Roger Olive.

Are you a restaurant in the Harrogate district – from pop-up to fine dining? Would you like Frances to review your establishment? If so, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.