Stray Foodie: Sugar and spice and all things nice

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

 

Sugared Almonds, Crystalised Fruits, Dates, Figs and Spices are the delicious foods that we associate with the end of year culinary preparations for our respected festivities.

Historically these ingredients were considered treats as they weren’t so readily available as they are today. Aroma is the powerful sense that stimulates the memory in our brain instantly bringing back recollections that in most cases are good at creating the desire for certain foods! The smell of sugar and spice is very evocative and is one such example.

This week’s recipe is a gluten free almond cake.

The recipe I have this week is one I promised a reader; Paradise’s very versatile recipe for Almond Cake. At Paradise we love versatility with food because we are on a constant voyage of discovery so far as flavours are concerned. This recipe has a large proportion of sugar in it and gluten free flour making it a good cake for keeping and for anyone eating a Gluten Free diet.

Frances’ gluten free almond cake

It is delicious served with crystalised fruits, sugared almonds, dates and figs and spices of your choice. I prefer a little grated nutmeg, complimenting the fruits. A glass of Harrogate Tipple Christmas Gin with a little tonic is a good accompaniment!

For the recipe you need:

The almond cake ingredients

Method:

Line a loose bottomed cake tin with silicone paper.

Pre heat the oven to 180c or Gas 4.

Put all the ingredients together in to a food processor and give a good whizz round and pour it into the cake tin.

Place in the centre of the oven for 40 minutes until it is firm.

Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

When cooled remove from the cake tin and cover with a flavoured frosting of your choice, sugared almonds and crystalised fruits.

Frosting Recipe:

This is a great alternative celebration cake which is light and easy.

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Stray Foodie: Lockdown recipes to cheer us up

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Usually my role at the Stray Ferret is to bring you a monthly review of a local restaurant or café. With the news that restaurants have once again been forced to close, these usual monthly reviews have been put on the back burner.

That doesn’t mean we can’t still support local restaurants. Like so many others in the area, my own business, Paradise Foods, is continuing to provide takeaway food – just come along, see what you would like to eat, and take home that special dish. We also have bespoke hampers for your dinner parties at home.

Hampers by Paradise Foods

Whilst we are all spending more time at home, I will be bringing you a new feel-good recipe each week to hopefully inspire you to try something new.

All of the recipes will be versatile for you to tailor it to your own personal taste. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This week’s recipe is Broccoli, Cashew, Parsnip, Maple, Mixed Kales and Crouton.

This dish works well on its own or as a great accompaniment to smoked haddock in a pesto cream, hot smoked salmon or parma ham – or even a lime-based cocktail!

For 1 generous portion you will need:

I also used the last of the season’s Nasturtium seeds, flowers and leaf. These can be substituted with coriander, basil or mint flowers for flavour.

Method:

Place the olive oil in a pan with the parsnips and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the Cashews for 1 ½ minutes.

Add the Broccoli and Kale, Herb Pesto and stir well.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the Maple Syrup.

Garnish with the Mixed Herbs, Spring Onion and Croutons.

If you would like to be a little adventurous with the croutons, you can always add Marmite, cream cheese and a squeeze of Lime for that umami taste!

Paradise Foods is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am until 2pm, at Daleside Nurseries, Killinghall HG3 2AY. 

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Stray Foodie: The Wild Plum, Harrogate

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

The Wild Plum, Hookstone Road, Harrogate, HG2 8BW

 

Frances’ Lunch: Crazy A-Bao You for £13.50 and a cup of coffee for £3.25

Looking up at the pink neon ‘Wild’ sign I thought to myself, am I in the Hardrock Café or is this a dream?

I was in fact in a restaurant located above a very popular ladies’ couture venue, The Snooty Frox, in Harrogate.

The Wild Plum Café is busy, modern, clean and bright and I’ve been told customers queue to enter such a hallowed space. It certainly is the place to be; it’s a vibrant and trendy space. A great contrast to the entrance, where I was met by the Lady of the House who was most charming. I was shown upstairs and found Girl Power at its best.

Head Chef, Bethany, daughter of the Snooty Frox owners, rules with her two female colleagues dressed in great ‘modern Chef’ gear.

The three chefs, including the head chef, Bethany (middle).

They were dishing out bags of style from an open kitchen with fabulous bottles of fermented fruit and vegetables. This immediately says, ‘serious kitchen’.

This is clever food; artistic, creative and hot (in every sense of the word). The Menu included the sort of food you can eat at any time of the day, assuming the seasoning is taken care of.

I was spoilt for choice but had the home-made Crazy A-Bao You with Carrot Kimchi, Sesame Soy Crispy Egg and Sriracha Mayo with the Crispy Cornflake Chicken. It arrived as Bao Buns – which were as pink as the Neon sign – in a bamboo steamer.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or café?

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Carrot Kimchi was on its base with Cornflake Chicken-style burgers and Crispy Eggs topped with a wonderful array of culinary flora. It had a syringe of Mayo at its side and some sweet jam. This was a very generous portion.

There were plenty of other choices and I was very tempted to have the Butternut Squash Fritter (GF) which was Mexican-style with smashed avocado, poached egg, rocket, sweet chilli jam, roasted garlic yoghurt and homemade salsa.

The indoor seating area of The Wild Plum. Above (and featured) image credit: Ben Bentley.

The Wild Plum Buddha Bowl sounded so exciting but with so much going on. Maybe – for a slightly reserved palate – a little confusing?

This food was exciting, tasty and young and I was told everything is made fresh on the premises. Looking around the Café, the other dishes were colourful and lovely.

Knowledge of flavour and ingredients comes with experience and perhaps not always so exciting but leaves a longer lasting impression.

These are exciting times in the culinary world, as it is all changing. It is young dedicated female chefs, like Bethany, who will shortly be leading the way in our industry, certainly in Harrogate.

To find out more about The Wild Plum click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

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Stray Foodie: Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge

Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Grantham Arms, Milby, Boroughbridge YO51 9BW

 

Frances’ Meal: Starter: Garlic Prawns with Samphire £9.95 Main Course: Steak Pie £14.95  Glass of Picpoul: £4.30

The Grantham Arms is a grey painted building that stands on a roundabout as you enter Boroughbridge. I suspect it was once a charming coaching inn but now at the side of a very busy road – not the most salubrious positions. Its fake grass and fairy lights make a statement.

The welcome I received from the young man behind the bar, Sam, was exemplary. It was a busy bar with guests of all ages.

I was with a friend who is the head of a hospitality department at a university. A young lady called Jess showed us to our table and looked after our experience for the duration of the evening. There were brown leather chairs, square tables, candles and bric-a-brac throughout. I imagine in the evening it would be very atmospheric.

The front room of Grantham Arms.

Jess was warm, friendly, with an extensive knowledge of the menu, which catered for all tastes.

To start with we shared Garlic Prawns with Samphire. The Samphire would have welcomed a little less heat.

She advised us that the Pies were a speciality and the thing to have. So, I had the steak pie which was well-made with good pastry and generously presented. I am not sure if the blue cheese in the gravy worked with such good ingredients; it might suit someone with a more robust palate. The cooking of the vegetables was excellent which is a rare achievement.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or cafe? 

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Chicken Supreme, which my friend ordered, was of grand proportions with a well-made sauce. I was assured it tasted good. However, I would have liked to have seen it looking more comfortable in the sauce with thinly sliced mushrooms, chopped chives and sliced to add a little elegance.

The choice of wines were very limited and they would have benefited from a wider selection of grape variety to balance with the dishes on offer.

The Dessert Menu looked tempting but unfortunately, we were too full. It looked interesting and was the sort of menu that meant no waste for the kitchen. Perhaps a seasonal weekly dessert might be a thought. A Syrup & Apple Sponge or similar nursery pudding for the winter the months might be a popular idea for their regulars.

The atmosphere was young and vibrant and made by the service staff. Such courtesy is always a pleasure to receive.

The outside seating area.

The kitchen, given suitable direction, has the makings of a successful brigade, although, I was disappointed to find the Head Chef was not on duty at the time of my visit, nor was any form of senior management.

If you are hungry the pricing is of very good value and you won’t be disappointed. I am sure it will increase in popularity as a neighbourhood restaurant. In these difficult times, it is a place to be valued.

To find out more about Grantham Arms click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

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Stray Foodie: Yorkshire Michelin-starred chef becomes food reviewer

The Stray Ferret is delighted to announce that legendary Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins, will become… the Stray Foodie!

Frances owned the renowned Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge for 20 years, where she held a Michelin star for 16 of them.

Now Frances is now turning her talent and experience to food reviewing.

From fine-dining restaurants to pop ups, Frances will be visiting all types of catering establishments and writing a review for the Stray Ferret.

Her first review will be published on The Stray Ferret next week on Saturday, September 26.

Frances told The Stray Ferret:

“I would see it as my job to encourage people to stay safe, take care, but at the same time enjoy what is on offer at the moment.

“I’m hoping that [my reviews] will encourage people to visit our industry more and not to be so worried about these times because most people in the hospitality industry are over-cautious now and they care about their customers.

“A friend of mine said to me the other day that he loves reading food reviews because they paint a picture for him, and he feels as if he is there and enjoying it. It also stimulates him to try new dishes at home himself and broadens his horizons, so he absolutely loves them.

“As for business owners, every business wants to be busy; it’s a form of advertising that people will read and see, rather than the establishment just saying they’re the greatest – there’s nothing like word of mouth.

“Also, if somebody builds up a following, a trust, that’s something I have to achieve. I think it’s important that the owners have a confidence in us to want to advertise with us.”

Frances Atkins pictured outside her airstream bus business Paradise Foods.

Frances discusses the possible challenges she may face when writing her reviews.

She said:

“It’s particularly important to give a clear picture of the feeling of the place in the first instance and first impressions. I think it’s important to take a positive view rather than a negative view because everybody’s opinions are always different, and I think during these times it’s very important to produce positive and honest feedback.

“It could be a challenge for me to make sure I don’t let my professionalism interfere with a review on a place that may be structured slightly differently to the way I would run it. Also, not to enjoy myself too much because I’m very good at forgetting when I’m enjoying it – on the other hand, if I am enjoying myself to that degree then that must be a good thing.”

“For me this is an exciting new world, away from the stove – and that’s how I see it. The benefit I see is having a great experience seeing other people’s style and the way people do things.”

“I wouldn’t be criticising; I will be writing about an experience. It’s something that I find exciting because I want to put my experience onto paper.”

After leaving the Yorke Arms, Frances converted an airstream bus into a mobile kitchen business, Paradise Foods, and stationed it at Daleside Nurseries in Killinghall. She was joined by her previous colleagues, John Tulett and Roger Olive.

Are you a restaurant in the Harrogate district – from pop-up to fine dining? Would you like Frances to review your establishment? If so, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.