Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

“I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.”

The Seville orange is prized for making British marmalade as it is higher in pectin than the usual sweet orange.

Introduced to Spain and many other parts of the world, but native to South East Asia, there are many varieties of this beautiful bitter sweet orange. For example some are used in essential oils and herbal medicines.  The peel can be used for the production of bitters and also dried, ground and candied.

There is just so much you can do with this wonderful orange as well as the much publicised British Seville orange marmalade that we make at this time of year. Some recipes seem to me to be very complicated with others being relatively simple. The red orange is far more beautiful to look at but in my opinion does not have the versatility of the Seville. The Seville’s depth of flavour it is a wonderful accompaniment to fish, meat and vegetable dishes.

For a classic Seville Orange Marmalade:

Ingredients

• 1 kg of Seville oranges
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2kg of granulated sugar

Method

Wash the oranges well and place in a pan with approx. two litres of cold water. Cook slowly whole.

When cool, remove the oranges from the liquid, reserving the liquid. Cut the oranges in half, spoon out the inside of the orange and place in a piece of muslin. Tie with string forming a bag.

Shred the orange and place back in to the reserved liquid. Add the sugar and the muslin bag and the lemon juice. Bring to the boil for approx 10-20 minutes until it sets.

To check is has set, drop a little of the marmalade on to a saucer with a drop of water and it should wrinkle. Remove the muslin bag and discard.

Place your marmalade in sterilised warm jars.

For a Red Orange Gel

Ingredients

• 4 red oranges
• 100g water
• 130g sugar
• Approx 1 teaspoon of agar according to packet instructions, optional.

Method

Zest one of the oranges and juice all. Add all the ingredients together. Reduce by half, making a syrup, and pour through a sieve. Add the teaspoon of agar for a gel, or just use the syrup.

Cheese Fritters with a Red Orange Dressing

Ingredients

• 150g of chickpea flour
• ½ tsp baking powder
• 3 tbsp of finely grated manchego or a similar cheese
• Chopped parsley
• Chopped thyme
• 2 spring onions, chopped
• 1 tbsp of olive oil

Method

Place the flour in a bowl with the spring onions and baking powder. Season.

Add 2ml of cold water and mix together to form a batter. Stir in the grated cheese and chopped thyme and parsley.

Heat the oil in a sauté pan and drop the fritters in as if you were making scotch pancakes.

To make the dressing:

• 1 tsp of mustard
• 2 tsp of sherry vinegar
• 4 tsp of olive oil
• Red orange syrup

Beat all ingredients together.

Serve the fritters with a salad of your choice – avocado, crunchy leaves, red chicory and finely diced fennel is delicious. Lastly, your red orange gel and dressing.

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

“I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.”

January is rhubarb time in Yorkshire. The Tomlinson family have been growing forced rhubarb in Pudsey, West Yorkshire for four generations. It is known as the Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle with excellent growing conditions. The plant is initially grown outside and subject to a specified number of frosts. Each winter acres of Rhubarb plants are transferred into long nursery sheds to be forced. Harvested in the dark by candle light according to an age-long tradition. The stalks are almost fibreless and bright pink in colour and has the most amazing flavour, unlike the rhubarb we get later in the year which can often be green and tough – this is not! It is one of the colourful joys of January.

Fresh local rhubarb is one of the joys of January

My Grandmother had a larder and as a child it sticks in my memory and was a source of inspiration. It was full of colour with bottled fruits of every variety, preserved in the summer to be enjoyed in the winter.

Japanese cuisine that is so fashionable contains a lot of preservation of varying sorts. Pickling, fermenting, smoking and drying, all to achieve the wonderful fifth taste, as has other culinary cultures, which brings to mind the preservation of this great January ingredient Yorkshire Rhubarb.

Here is a recipe for a rhubarb dessert and a pickled rhubarb. Sweet and Sour, you have your choice.

For the pickling liquor:

Ingredients

100g Sugar

100g White wine Vinegar

The zest of 1 Orange, 1 Lemon and 1 Grapefruit

10g Ginger Root

Method

Place all ingredients into a pan and bring to the boil to make a pickling liquor.

Bring to the boil and add a couple of sticks of chopped Rhubarb, take off the heat and cover with cling film until cool.  When cool, remove the rhubarb from the pickling liquor and serve with cold meats, pates, cheese etc.

For the Rhubarb Semi Fredo:

A semi iced mousse, which is extremely useful as you can use it to embellish other puddings.

Ingredients

175g Rhubarb Puree – for this you will need 7 sticks of rhubarb and 250g sugar.  Add the sugar and the rhubarb to a pan, cover with cling film and cook slowly until it falls and drain of the liquid and reduce to thick consistency. Put through a food processor until smooth.

20g White Wine

40g Sugar

2 Egg Yolks

170g Whipped Cream

Method

In a bowl over a pan of hot water, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and wine to a thick mousse like consistency over a gentle heat. Fold in the rhubarb puree and whipped cream. Pipe or spoon into finger moulds and place in the freezer.

As you will see from the image, decorate your Rhubarb Semi Fredo fingers with whipped cream, poached rhubarb, donuts, jam, tuille biscuits, and a little chilli should you feel adventurous!

Rhubarb semi fredo by Frances Atkins

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

Sugared Almonds, Crystalised Fruits, Dates, Figs and Spices are the delicious foods that we associate with the end of year culinary preparations for our respected festivities.

Historically these ingredients were considered treats as they weren’t so readily available as they are today. Aroma is the powerful sense that stimulates the memory in our brain instantly bringing back recollections that in most cases are good at creating the desire for certain foods! The smell of sugar and spice is very evocative and is one such example.

This week’s recipe is a gluten free almond cake.

The recipe I have this week is one I promised a reader; Paradise’s very versatile recipe for Almond Cake. At Paradise we love versatility with food because we are on a constant voyage of discovery so far as flavours are concerned. This recipe has a large proportion of sugar in it and gluten free flour making it a good cake for keeping and for anyone eating a Gluten Free diet.

Frances’ gluten free almond cake

It is delicious served with crystalised fruits, sugared almonds, dates and figs and spices of your choice. I prefer a little grated nutmeg, complimenting the fruits. A glass of Harrogate Tipple Christmas Gin with a little tonic is a good accompaniment!

For the recipe you need:

• 125g Ground Almonds
• 225g Castor Sugar
• 150g Butter
• 4 Whole Eggs
• 1 Tsp Almond Extract or Essence
• 75g Gluten Free Flour
• 1 Tsp Baking powder

The almond cake ingredients

Method:

Line a loose bottomed cake tin with silicone paper.

Pre heat the oven to 180c or Gas 4.

Put all the ingredients together in to a food processor and give a good whizz round and pour it into the cake tin.

Place in the centre of the oven for 40 minutes until it is firm.

Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

When cooled remove from the cake tin and cover with a flavoured frosting of your choice, sugared almonds and crystalised fruits.

Frosting Recipe:

• Mix together equal quantities of butter and icing sugar and the grated zest and juice of 1 lime.
• Grated Nutmeg
• A Splash of Gin if desired!

This is a great alternative celebration cake which is light and easy.

Read More: 

• Stray Foodie: a hint of Festive flavours
• Stray Foodie: an autumn surprise for the taste buds

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Usually my role at the Stray Ferret is to bring you a monthly review of a local restaurant or café. With the news that restaurants have once again been forced to close, these usual monthly reviews have been put on the back burner.

That doesn’t mean we can’t still support local restaurants. Like so many others in the area, my own business, Paradise Foods, is continuing to provide takeaway food – just come along, see what you would like to eat, and take home that special dish. We also have bespoke hampers for your dinner parties at home.

Hampers by Paradise Foods

Whilst we are all spending more time at home, I will be bringing you a new feel-good recipe each week to hopefully inspire you to try something new.

All of the recipes will be versatile for you to tailor it to your own personal taste. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This week’s recipe is Broccoli, Cashew, Parsnip, Maple, Mixed Kales and Crouton.

This dish works well on its own or as a great accompaniment to smoked haddock in a pesto cream, hot smoked salmon or parma ham – or even a lime-based cocktail!

For 1 generous portion you will need:

• 20g Piccolo Parsnips, washed, peeled and steamed until they have a bite (approx. 6 mins).
• 1 x Tablespoon of Olive Oil
• 20g Unsalted Cashew Nuts (not roasted)
• 60g Broccoli Tenderstem, steamed for 1 minute
• 20g Mixed Kale, steamed very lightly
• 12g Julienne (fine strips) of Spring Onion
• 30g Herb Pesto (oil and a bunch of fresh herbs whizzed up in a blender)
• 15g Maple Syrup
• 15g Mixed Herbs
• Handful of Croutons

I also used the last of the season’s Nasturtium seeds, flowers and leaf. These can be substituted with coriander, basil or mint flowers for flavour.

Method:

Place the olive oil in a pan with the parsnips and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the Cashews for 1 ½ minutes.

Add the Broccoli and Kale, Herb Pesto and stir well.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the Maple Syrup.

Garnish with the Mixed Herbs, Spring Onion and Croutons.

If you would like to be a little adventurous with the croutons, you can always add Marmite, cream cheese and a squeeze of Lime for that umami taste!

Paradise Foods is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am until 2pm, at Daleside Nurseries, Killinghall HG3 2AY. 

Read More

• Stray Foodie Review: The Wild Plum, Harrogate
• Stray Foodie Review: Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

The Wild Plum, Hookstone Road, Harrogate, HG2 8BW

Frances’ Lunch: Crazy A-Bao You for £13.50 and a cup of coffee for £3.25

Looking up at the pink neon ‘Wild’ sign I thought to myself, am I in the Hardrock Café or is this a dream?

I was in fact in a restaurant located above a very popular ladies’ couture venue, The Snooty Frox, in Harrogate.

The Wild Plum Café is busy, modern, clean and bright and I’ve been told customers queue to enter such a hallowed space. It certainly is the place to be; it’s a vibrant and trendy space. A great contrast to the entrance, where I was met by the Lady of the House who was most charming. I was shown upstairs and found Girl Power at its best.

Head Chef, Bethany, daughter of the Snooty Frox owners, rules with her two female colleagues dressed in great ‘modern Chef’ gear.

The three chefs, including the head chef, Bethany (middle).

They were dishing out bags of style from an open kitchen with fabulous bottles of fermented fruit and vegetables. This immediately says, ‘serious kitchen’.

This is clever food; artistic, creative and hot (in every sense of the word). The Menu included the sort of food you can eat at any time of the day, assuming the seasoning is taken care of.

I was spoilt for choice but had the home-made Crazy A-Bao You with Carrot Kimchi, Sesame Soy Crispy Egg and Sriracha Mayo with the Crispy Cornflake Chicken. It arrived as Bao Buns – which were as pink as the Neon sign – in a bamboo steamer.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or café?

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Carrot Kimchi was on its base with Cornflake Chicken-style burgers and Crispy Eggs topped with a wonderful array of culinary flora. It had a syringe of Mayo at its side and some sweet jam. This was a very generous portion.

There were plenty of other choices and I was very tempted to have the Butternut Squash Fritter (GF) which was Mexican-style with smashed avocado, poached egg, rocket, sweet chilli jam, roasted garlic yoghurt and homemade salsa.

The indoor seating area of The Wild Plum. Above (and featured) image credit: Ben Bentley.

The Wild Plum Buddha Bowl sounded so exciting but with so much going on. Maybe – for a slightly reserved palate – a little confusing?

This food was exciting, tasty and young and I was told everything is made fresh on the premises. Looking around the Café, the other dishes were colourful and lovely.

Knowledge of flavour and ingredients comes with experience and perhaps not always so exciting but leaves a longer lasting impression.

These are exciting times in the culinary world, as it is all changing. It is young dedicated female chefs, like Bethany, who will shortly be leading the way in our industry, certainly in Harrogate.

To find out more about The Wild Plum click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

Read More:

• Stray Foodie: Frances visits the Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge
• Stray Foodie:  Frances visits the Bistro at How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale

Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Grantham Arms, Milby, Boroughbridge YO51 9BW

Frances’ Meal: Starter: Garlic Prawns with Samphire £9.95 Main Course: Steak Pie £14.95  Glass of Picpoul: £4.30

The Grantham Arms is a grey painted building that stands on a roundabout as you enter Boroughbridge. I suspect it was once a charming coaching inn but now at the side of a very busy road – not the most salubrious positions. Its fake grass and fairy lights make a statement.

The welcome I received from the young man behind the bar, Sam, was exemplary. It was a busy bar with guests of all ages.

I was with a friend who is the head of a hospitality department at a university. A young lady called Jess showed us to our table and looked after our experience for the duration of the evening. There were brown leather chairs, square tables, candles and bric-a-brac throughout. I imagine in the evening it would be very atmospheric.

The front room of Grantham Arms.

Jess was warm, friendly, with an extensive knowledge of the menu, which catered for all tastes.

To start with we shared Garlic Prawns with Samphire. The Samphire would have welcomed a little less heat.

She advised us that the Pies were a speciality and the thing to have. So, I had the steak pie which was well-made with good pastry and generously presented. I am not sure if the blue cheese in the gravy worked with such good ingredients; it might suit someone with a more robust palate. The cooking of the vegetables was excellent which is a rare achievement.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or cafe? 

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Chicken Supreme, which my friend ordered, was of grand proportions with a well-made sauce. I was assured it tasted good. However, I would have liked to have seen it looking more comfortable in the sauce with thinly sliced mushrooms, chopped chives and sliced to add a little elegance.

The choice of wines were very limited and they would have benefited from a wider selection of grape variety to balance with the dishes on offer.

The Dessert Menu looked tempting but unfortunately, we were too full. It looked interesting and was the sort of menu that meant no waste for the kitchen. Perhaps a seasonal weekly dessert might be a thought. A Syrup & Apple Sponge or similar nursery pudding for the winter the months might be a popular idea for their regulars.

The atmosphere was young and vibrant and made by the service staff. Such courtesy is always a pleasure to receive.

The outside seating area.

The kitchen, given suitable direction, has the makings of a successful brigade, although, I was disappointed to find the Head Chef was not on duty at the time of my visit, nor was any form of senior management.

If you are hungry the pricing is of very good value and you won’t be disappointed. I am sure it will increase in popularity as a neighbourhood restaurant. In these difficult times, it is a place to be valued.

To find out more about Grantham Arms click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

Read More: 

• Stray Foodie:  Frances visits the Bistro at How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
• Italian bar and restaurant closes in Harrogate

The Stray Ferret is delighted to announce that legendary Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins, will become… the Stray Foodie!

Frances owned the renowned Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge for 20 years, where she held a Michelin star for 16 of them.

Now Frances is now turning her talent and experience to food reviewing.

From fine-dining restaurants to pop ups, Frances will be visiting all types of catering establishments and writing a review for the Stray Ferret.

Her first review will be published on The Stray Ferret next week on Saturday, September 26.

Frances told The Stray Ferret:

“I would see it as my job to encourage people to stay safe, take care, but at the same time enjoy what is on offer at the moment.

“I’m hoping that [my reviews] will encourage people to visit our industry more and not to be so worried about these times because most people in the hospitality industry are over-cautious now and they care about their customers.

“A friend of mine said to me the other day that he loves reading food reviews because they paint a picture for him, and he feels as if he is there and enjoying it. It also stimulates him to try new dishes at home himself and broadens his horizons, so he absolutely loves them.

“As for business owners, every business wants to be busy; it’s a form of advertising that people will read and see, rather than the establishment just saying they’re the greatest – there’s nothing like word of mouth.

“Also, if somebody builds up a following, a trust, that’s something I have to achieve. I think it’s important that the owners have a confidence in us to want to advertise with us.”

Frances Atkins pictured outside her airstream bus business Paradise Foods.

Frances discusses the possible challenges she may face when writing her reviews.

She said:

“It’s particularly important to give a clear picture of the feeling of the place in the first instance and first impressions. I think it’s important to take a positive view rather than a negative view because everybody’s opinions are always different, and I think during these times it’s very important to produce positive and honest feedback.

“It could be a challenge for me to make sure I don’t let my professionalism interfere with a review on a place that may be structured slightly differently to the way I would run it. Also, not to enjoy myself too much because I’m very good at forgetting when I’m enjoying it – on the other hand, if I am enjoying myself to that degree then that must be a good thing.”

“For me this is an exciting new world, away from the stove – and that’s how I see it. The benefit I see is having a great experience seeing other people’s style and the way people do things.”

“I wouldn’t be criticising; I will be writing about an experience. It’s something that I find exciting because I want to put my experience onto paper.”

After leaving the Yorke Arms, Frances converted an airstream bus into a mobile kitchen business, Paradise Foods, and stationed it at Daleside Nurseries in Killinghall. She was joined by her previous colleagues, John Tulett and Roger Olive.

Are you a restaurant in the Harrogate district – from pop-up to fine dining? Would you like Frances to review your establishment? If so, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.