Legendary chef Marco Pierre White on why Harrogate is one of his ‘spiritual homes’

Legendary chef Marco Pierre White started his culinary career in Harrogate four decades ago.

Since then, Marco has gone on to lead the country’s restaurant scene and helped kick-start the careers of chefs including Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal.

Later this month he is returning to the town he calls one of his “spiritual homes” to host a three-day food festival.

He spoke to the Stray Ferret about learning the trade in Harrogate, favourite Yorkshire restaurants and… tripe.

‘First break in life’

Forty five years ago a young Marco Pierre White was instructed by his dad to go and search for work in Harrogate. This was because it was less than 10 miles away from his Leeds home and crammed with hotels.

So one morning in March 1978, sandwiches in hand, he caught the bus to the town, went to the St George Hotel, on Ripon Road, and knocked on the kitchen door.

He said:

“I was there for about a year. I didn’t learn much about cooking. That’s the truth. But what I did learn was how to use a knife well. I learned how to absorb pressure, I learned to be organised. I learned to work hard. Very hard.

“I also used to stand and watch the chef, Stefan Wilkinson, do the pass. He was the greatest at doing the pass that I ever saw. He gave me my first break in life for which I’m very grateful for.

“I learned a lot there, but not about food.”

Marco said his time at the Harrogate hotel was very important as it prepared him for his role at The Box Tree in Ilkley.

The famous Yorkshire restaurant opened in 1963 and was one of the first four restaurants in the UK to hold two Michelin stars.

Marco began working in the kitchen at the age of 17 in 1979, where he remained for two years.

He said:

“In those days it was one of only four restaurants in Britain to have two Michelin stars. A lot of people regarded it as the best restaurant in Britain at the time.”

‘Spiritual home’

While he hasn’t visited Yorkshire since 2019 as a result of the pandemic, he is looking forward to returning to Harrogate on October 28 for his three-day food festival.

He said:

“I always say Harrogate is one of my spiritual homes.”

And while he hasn’t dined out in the region for almost four years, he credits his favourite Yorkshire restaurant as the Cleveland Tontine, Northallerton.

He said:

“I’ve been there many, many times. My friend Eugene has left there and now he has got the Crathorne Arms, just outside Northallerton. He’s a very good chef and cooks food you want to eat.

“But when I was a boy, Harrogate had restaurants like the Drum and Monkey (which is still open today) and we had Oliver’s and Number Six. The first ever posh restaurant I took a girl to was Oliver’s in Harrogate. We both had beef wellington and a langoustine cocktail.”

Marco also recommends Simon Shaw’s tapas restaurant, El Gato Negro, in Leeds, where he plans to dine ahead of the food festival.

The Great White Food Festival

The Great White Food Festival will be held at the Harrogate Convention Centre and Royal Hall from October 28-30 and is expected to attract around 15,000 visitors.

Marco said:

“It’s basically a celebration of food and there will be lots of artisan producers who make things like salami, pork pies and black pudding.

“There will be produce like smoked salmon and haddock. In my opinion Alfred Enderby, from Grimsby, smokes the best smoked haddock in the world and they are coming.

“Redefine Meat are coming who make vegetarian steaks.

“Pierre Koffmann, Simon Shaw, Jean-Christophe Novelli and I will be doing masterclasses. There are a lot of chefs doing them.

“But it’s a celebration of Yorkshire really and all those individuals who contribute to it being wonderful.”

And his favourite Yorkshire dish?

“Tripe. Tripe is one of the most delicious things on earth. There used to be a tripe shop in Leeds Market. They used to hang it in all the butchers’ shops. People used to eat it cold with malt vinegar, black pepper and salt.”

Successful first month at The Hearing Suite’s new Ilkley practice

This story is sponsored by The Hearing Suite.

The Hearing Suite’s new clinic in Ilkley is proving to be a major success following its launch last month.

Located at No 6 The Grove, the state-of-the-art practice has a dedicated wax removal room on the ground floor, along with a full testing suite on the first floor.

Founder Emily Woodmansey set up the Ilkley site following rapid growth at the Harrogate branch on East Parade.

The business has continued to expand and now offers a team of three audiologists and an ENT consultant.

Emily Woodmansey, managing director of The Hearing Suite.

Having grown up in Ilkley, Ms Woodmansey recognised that many of the town’s residents were making the journey to Harrogate and a closer practice would be more convenient.

She said:

“Our Harrogate practice is thriving. Our ethos is firmly grounded in having a small group of very happy people, and I thought it was about time Ilkley had its own full-time, dedicated audiology practice.

“The pandemic has reminded people how precious communication is and it has been exciting to share our brand of audiology with the people of my home town.

“Since opening a few weeks ago, we have been quite overwhelmed with the number of people wanting help with their hearing. The local business community has been really welcoming too. We are just so grateful for everyone’s support.”

The Hearing Suite’s employee Olivia, a former NHS senior audiologist, has been appointed as the practice’s head of audiology.

The new branch offers the same services as Harrogate, including wax removal, hearing consultations, tinnitus management and hearing aids.

Business Breakfast: Harrogate hearing company expands to second practice

Business Breakfast is sponsored by Harrogate law firm Truth Legal. 

A Harrogate health business is set to expand to a second branch after four years of success in the town.

The Hearing Suite will open a new practice at No 6 The Grove in Ilkley following growth at its premises on East Parade.

Founder Emily Woodmansey, pictured, set up the practice alone but has expanded to offer a team of three audiologists and an ENT consultant.

Having grown up in Ilkley, she recognised that many of her current patients are making the journey to Harrogate and a closer practice would be more convenient for them.

She said:

“Our Harrogate practice is thriving, our ethos is firmly grounded in having a small group of very happy people, and right now Ilkley doesn’t have a full time, dedicated audiology practice.

“The pandemic has reminded people how precious communication is and I’m excited to share our brand of audiology with the people of my home town.”

The practice will have a dedicated wax removal room on the ground floor, along with a full testing suite on the first floor.

The Hearing Suite’s employee Olivia, a former NHS senior audiologist will be the practice’s head of service and it will offer the same services as the Harrogate branch including wax removal, hearing consultations, tinnitus management and hearing aids.

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Ripon BID considers joint trade waste provision

Businesses in central Ripon could benefit from a collective trade waste contract if plans by the city’s Business Improvement District are supported.

The BID is currently asking businesses for their views on the plans, which could also be opened to businesses which don’t pay the levy in exchange for a fee.

In a message sent out with the survey, BID manager Lilla Bathurst said:

“Ripon BID is seeking to save money for levy payers, improve the waste services they receive and enhance the appearance of local streets by procuring a waste collector to offer a high quality, low cost waste and recycling service.”

The organisation said a central contractor could improve reliability and frequency of collections, as well as reduce the costs to BID levy payers. It could also increase the amount of waste sent for recycling instead of going to landfill.

There is also the potential to improve the city centre environment by making more frequent collections and reducing the number of vehicles being used to complete them, said the BID.

Harrogate returns to list of UK’s best places to live

The Sunday Times has identified Harrogate as one of the best places to live in the UK.

The newspaper’s annual Best Places to Live list, published today, names the town as one of nine places in the north and north-east of England, and 70 nationally, which are among the most desirable.

Judges cited the town’s schools, parks, shops, cafes and restaurants as among its attractions, describing it as “all the fun and fresh air of Yorkshire without any of the gritty bits”.

They listed an average house price of £390,000, which they said had risen by 20% in the last two years.

The Times and Sunday Times property editor Helen Davies, one of the list’s judges, said:

“The Sunday Times Best Places to Live list is necessarily subjective. Leave it just to statistics and you will never capture the spirit of a place.

“For that, you need to visit to take into account that ‘you have to be here’ feeling. Is the pub dog-friendly, for example? Can you live car-free? What are the schools and houses like? Is it multicultural and multigenerational, and can it offer a good way of life to lots of different sorts of people? 

“Ten years ago, when we launched the inaugural list, London’s gravitational pull was strong, the WFH [working-from-home] revolution had not yet reached our doorstep and high streets were stacked with chains. How times have changed — and how welcome that change is.”

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Ilkley has topped the Sunday Times Best Places to Live list for 2022, though Slaithwaite in West Yorkshire was named as the best place to live in the north and north-east of England.

Also on the list for the region were Leeds City Centre, Cawthorne in South Yorkshire, Hovingham and Great Ayton in North Yorkshire, Tynemouth in Tyne and Wear, and Morpeth in Northumberland.

Harrogate last appeared on the list in 2016. In 2020, Ripon was featured, while last year Masham was singled out as one of the top places to live.

Property website Rightmove has frequently listed Harrogate as one of the happiest places to live in the UK.

More dubiously, a BBC Two programme named it as the country’s “porn capital” in 2010, with more people browsing for explicit content than anywhere else. Three years earlier, it was identified as the second-worst place for problematic drinking in a study conducted by the North West Health Observatory at the Centre for Public Health.

Popular Harlow Hill fruit and veg shop to reopen in February

Wharfedale Fruiterers on Otley Road in Harrogate will reopen with a new name and new owners in February.

The owners of the Shepherd’s Dog pub, Mike and Donna Schofield, opened the greengrocers during the first covid lockdown in a former barbershop close to the pub.

It also sold dairy, bread and meats and quickly became popular with Harlow Hill residents.

However, Mr Schofield closed the shop this year to concentrate on the pub and his wife’s illness.

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From February, the shop will be owned by a couple who currently run a fruit and veg stall on Ilkley market. It will be renamed Wharfedale Fruit and Veg but Mr Schofield promised not much about it will change.

He said:

“The great thing is they’ll purchase everything from the same market as me. They’ll keep Longley Farm dairy and eggs. It will be the same quality but they’ll put their stamp on it.

“They are well established and they know what they’re doing.”

Masham named in Sunday Times Best Places to Live

With its Georgian market place, two breweries and idyllic setting beside the River Ure, locals have known for years that Masham is a wonderful place to live.

But now the secret is out. The Sunday Times has included the market town in its annual Best Places to Live guide.

Masham is one of nine runners-up behind Ilkley in the north-east of England category. No other town or city in the Harrogate district was selected.

The Sunday Times judges based their decision on factors such as schools, air quality, transport and health of the high street.

They described Masham as:

“A picturesque market town in its own right that offers the best of both worlds.

“The extraordinary landscape of the Yorkshire Dales is on the doorstep and Ripon, with its top selective school and Curzon cinema, is just a short drive away.”

The judges listed their favourite things as the market, the Black Sheep Brewery and Johnny Baghdad’s ‘funky bright-yellow café on the square’.  

Colin Blair, aka Johnny Baghdad

Colin Blair, aka Johnny Baghdad

Independent businesses

Colin Blair, who owns Johnny Baghdad’s, said Masham had got busier in the 20 years since he arrived and now had a good blend of independent businesses. He said:

“It’s a great place and a great place to run a business from.”

Mr Blair, who runs Johnny Baghdad’s with his partner Saeeda Zaman, was delighted to be recognised.

He said the cafe’s eclectic food, which includes everything from falafel and chicken shawarma to bacon rolls, went down well with locals, as well as the numerous cyclists and day trippers that flock to the town at weekends. He added:

“It’s the kind of thing you don’t see often when travelling around the Yorkshire Dales.”

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The cafe is currently open only for takeaways but is due to open with tables and seating on April 12.

The other regional runners up are:

·       Alnmouth, Northumberland 

·       Barnard Castle, Co Durham 

·       Easingwold, North Yorkshire 

·       Leeds 

·       Masham, North Yorkshire 

·       Slaithwaite, West Yorkshire 

·       Todmorden, West Yorkshire 

·       Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear 

·       York