Legendary chef Marco Pierre White on why Harrogate is one of his ‘spiritual homes’

Legendary chef Marco Pierre White started his culinary career in Harrogate four decades ago.

Since then, Marco has gone on to lead the country’s restaurant scene and helped kick-start the careers of chefs including Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal.

Later this month he is returning to the town he calls one of his “spiritual homes” to host a three-day food festival.

He spoke to the Stray Ferret about learning the trade in Harrogate, favourite Yorkshire restaurants and… tripe.

‘First break in life’

Forty five years ago a young Marco Pierre White was instructed by his dad to go and search for work in Harrogate. This was because it was less than 10 miles away from his Leeds home and crammed with hotels.

So one morning in March 1978, sandwiches in hand, he caught the bus to the town, went to the St George Hotel, on Ripon Road, and knocked on the kitchen door.

He said:

“I was there for about a year. I didn’t learn much about cooking. That’s the truth. But what I did learn was how to use a knife well. I learned how to absorb pressure, I learned to be organised. I learned to work hard. Very hard.

“I also used to stand and watch the chef, Stefan Wilkinson, do the pass. He was the greatest at doing the pass that I ever saw. He gave me my first break in life for which I’m very grateful for.

“I learned a lot there, but not about food.”

Marco said his time at the Harrogate hotel was very important as it prepared him for his role at The Box Tree in Ilkley.

The famous Yorkshire restaurant opened in 1963 and was one of the first four restaurants in the UK to hold two Michelin stars.

Marco began working in the kitchen at the age of 17 in 1979, where he remained for two years.

He said:

“In those days it was one of only four restaurants in Britain to have two Michelin stars. A lot of people regarded it as the best restaurant in Britain at the time.”

‘Spiritual home’

While he hasn’t visited Yorkshire since 2019 as a result of the pandemic, he is looking forward to returning to Harrogate on October 28 for his three-day food festival.

He said:

“I always say Harrogate is one of my spiritual homes.”

And while he hasn’t dined out in the region for almost four years, he credits his favourite Yorkshire restaurant as the Cleveland Tontine, Northallerton.

He said:

“I’ve been there many, many times. My friend Eugene has left there and now he has got the Crathorne Arms, just outside Northallerton. He’s a very good chef and cooks food you want to eat.

“But when I was a boy, Harrogate had restaurants like the Drum and Monkey (which is still open today) and we had Oliver’s and Number Six. The first ever posh restaurant I took a girl to was Oliver’s in Harrogate. We both had beef wellington and a langoustine cocktail.”

Marco also recommends Simon Shaw’s tapas restaurant, El Gato Negro, in Leeds, where he plans to dine ahead of the food festival.

The Great White Food Festival

The Great White Food Festival will be held at the Harrogate Convention Centre and Royal Hall from October 28-30 and is expected to attract around 15,000 visitors.

Marco said:

“It’s basically a celebration of food and there will be lots of artisan producers who make things like salami, pork pies and black pudding.

“There will be produce like smoked salmon and haddock. In my opinion Alfred Enderby, from Grimsby, smokes the best smoked haddock in the world and they are coming.

“Redefine Meat are coming who make vegetarian steaks.

“Pierre Koffmann, Simon Shaw, Jean-Christophe Novelli and I will be doing masterclasses. There are a lot of chefs doing them.

“But it’s a celebration of Yorkshire really and all those individuals who contribute to it being wonderful.”

And his favourite Yorkshire dish?

“Tripe. Tripe is one of the most delicious things on earth. There used to be a tripe shop in Leeds Market. They used to hang it in all the butchers’ shops. People used to eat it cold with malt vinegar, black pepper and salt.”

Harrogate’s St George Hotel sold again

The 90-room St George Hotel in Harrogate has been sold for the second time in just over a year.

Northern pub company The Inn Collection Group has bought the Edwardian hotel, which is opposite Harrogate Convention Centre, for an undisclosed value.

The hotel re-opened less than a year ago under new owner Bespoke Hotels after previous owner Specialist Leisure Group went into administration with the loss of 2,500 jobs

The hotel, which includes The Swaledale restaurant and six function rooms, will continue trading before undergoing refurbishment this year.

The Inn Collection Group portfolio also includes Dower House Hotel in Knaresborough, Ripon Spa Hotel in Ripon and Dean Court in York.

Sean Donkin, managing director of The Inn Collection Group said:

“The Hotel St George is an exciting acquisition for us as we continue to expand our customer base and imprint in Yorkshire while continuing to roll out our buy and build strategy as an operator.

“We have had Harrogate in our sights for a considerable time while identifying a site that is a fit with our ‘Eat, Drink, Sleep and Explore’ brand.

“We are delighted to have completed on this superb site which will be a tremendous asset for our customers and our portfolio of inns in the best UK locations.”

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Mr Donkin added the hotel was “perfect site for exploring Harrogate and the surrounding Yorkshire Dales”.

Elsewhere in Yorkshire, The Inn Collection Group is redeveloping Northallerton’s former police station into a 32-bedroom pub with rooms called The Northallerton Inn.

The group also owns The Stables at Whitby, The King’s Head Inn at Newton under Roseberry and in October reopened The Black Swan in Helmsley.

Outside Yorkshire, it has sites in Northumberland, the Lake District, County Durham, Tyne & Wear and Lancashire.

New gin bar to open at historic Harrogate hotel tomorrow

The St George Hotel in Harrogate is set to launch a new bar, which will exclusively stock gin.

Paul Donkin, the hotel’s new general manager, first floated the idea of a gin bar in a story on the Stray Ferret. It received lots of interest so he has decided to follow through with it.

The Duck in Gin Lounge, which opens tomorrow, will have about 40 different brands of gins on offer.

Besides gin, the bar will also have a series of quirky bar snacks called ‘duck feed’ created by the head chef.

The snacks include salt and vinegar scraps, maple bacon popcorn, raspberry and white chocolate and more. That menu will change over time as well.

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Mr Donkin told the Stray Ferret:

“When I first got here that bar was a nice space but it was under utilised. Surprisingly, considering the popularity of gin, there are no dedicated gin bars in Harrogate.

“We are lucky to have this space. Like I said I spoke to your colleague and made an off-hand comment about a gin bar.

“But the amount of interest we got made us realise that actually we needed to go for it.”

Becky Edmundson, sales manager, also told the Stray Ferret:

“We are definitely looking forward to opening. I think we thought as well that following coronavirus people are feeling quite anxious about going to bars.

“Whereas in here you can come and sit down and be a bit more distanced from people. Now that things are opening up we are getting lots of enquiries now.”

The man hired to revive one of Harrogate’s most historic hotels

Fifteen years ago Paul Donkin applied for a job as a waiter at the St George Hotel in Harrogate.

Now he is the hotel’s general manager and recruiting his own team of staff ahead of re-opening on May 17.

At 35, Mr Donkin may seem relatively young to hold such a senior position at one of Harrogate’s premier hotels.

But he has worked in hospitality since he was 15, lived in Harrogate for the last decade and a half and is brimming with ideas to revive the 90-bed St George.

The hotel, opposite the Royal Hall, is steeped in history but has had a troubled recent past.

After a multi-million pound refurbishment in late 2018, it closed during the first lockdown 13 months ago and then its owner, Shearings Hotels, went into administration in May.

The St George was one of 39 hotels in the group bought by Coast and Country Hotel Collection under an agreement with management company Bespoke Hotels.

Few people, besides a caretaker, have been inside the building for the past year, so it remains in superb post-refurbishment condition.

Gin bar

Mr Donkin’s plans include changing the menu, re-starting weddings and creating a gin bar.

He also wants to create an afternoon tea room, which seems a brave thing to do in a town not exactly under-served by tea rooms. But he sees an opportunity to entice locals to enjoy a brew beneath the magnificent stained glass domed ceiling in one function room.

He also has plans to improve the Dog and Duck bar, which has lacked the appeal of some other Harrogate hotel bars despite its central location. As part of this, he has been talking to Cold Bath Brewing Company about introducing new beers.

What about reviving the hotel leisure club and swimming pool? The pool has been drained. Mr Donkin says:

“It’s on the radar of the owners. The Majestic and Rudding Park are the only hotel leisure centres so it would be nice to have one.”

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Mr Donkin is currently recruiting about a dozen staff for what he calls a ‘soft launch’ in May. He says:

“Once we pick up speed we will be recruiting more.”

What does he think will be the biggest challenge in the new covid world? He replies immediately:

“Customer confidence. Everyone is still a bit nervous about sitting in a restaurant with up to 100 other people.”

‘Harrogate remains a great destination’

At York Pavilion Hotel, where Mr Donkin was previously general manager, he says  more people booked directly with the hotel rather than through websites when it briefly re-opened after the first lockdown in September so they could ask questions about the covid protocol.

He predicts this will continue and there will be more last minute bookings until people feel confident again about going away. He says:

“It’s not going to be easy. But hospitality in Harrogate has always been strong. It’s always been a great destination to come to. We live in one of the most beautiful parts of the country.”

Although he welcomes the impending reopening of Harrogate Convention Centre, he says the town’s hospitality sector needs to be less dependent on it and “explore other avenues, such as leisure and corporate travellers”. He adds:

“I don’t think we will ever be back to where we were, with 200 or 300 people regularly attending conferences. People do that on Zoom now.”

Mr Donkin, who is married with two children and plans to run his first marathon in October as part of an ambition to complete a triathlon, clearly has a task on his hand. But he knows what he is letting himself in for.

He has worked at many of the town’s major hotels, including the Cedar Court, Old Swan and Crown, and knows the other hoteliers.

“In York, we knew each other but there wasn’t the same community feel as there is in Harrogate.

“I’ve been very excited since I got the role and can’t wait to re-open.”

 

St George Hotel in Harrogate set to re-open

One of Harrogate’s oldest and most famous hotels is set to re-open.

St George Hotel, opposite Harrogate Convention Centre in the town centre, has been closed for more than a year since the first lockdown began.

Previous owner Specialist Leisure Group went into administration in May with the loss of 2,500 jobs throughout the company.

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It is now owned by Bespoke Hotels, which was founded in 2000 by Haydn Fentum and Robin Sheppard and describes itself as ‘the UK’s largest independent hotel group’, with 120 properties.

Paul Donkin, general manager of York Pavilion Hotel, revealed on social media he was leaving his position to take on the challenge of re-opening the hotel and building a new team to bring the hotel back to its glory.

Mr Donkin, who lives in Harrogate and has extensive experience of the town’s hospitality sector having worked previously at the Cedar Court Hotel, the Old Swan Hotel and the Crown Hotel, told the Stray Ferret he would be happy to discuss the matter in more detail when he took up the role on April 7.

The hotel grew out of the Chequers Inn and was renamed after George III’s gift of the Stray to the people of Harrogate in 1778.

It was enlarged several times during the nineteenth century and renamed the St George shortly before the First World War.

It was badly damaged by fire in 1927 and requisitioned by the Post Office and Air Ministry during the Second World War before re-opening as a hotel in 1952. It acquired a spa facility in 1985.

It has 90 bedrooms, a restaurant, bar, library and terrace and its close proximity to the town centre makes it a popular spot for visitors.

Harrogate couple to marry after twice cancelled wedding

A Harrogate couple has received some good news from The Majestic Hotel in Harrogate who has offered to host their wedding after their original plans were ruined.

Ali Farr and Ben Cross ,who both work for the NHS, had their wedding plans cancelled twice. Firstly due to lockdown and secondly because their chosen venue, St George Hotel on Ripon Road, went into administration.

The couple had their wedding invitations re-printed for free and then heard the venue had gone bust.

However, thanks to the help of Ali’s grandma and bridesmaids, The Majestic Hotel in Harrogate has offered their venue for the couples wedding on December 31- the day they’d been due to marry at the St George.

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Bride- to- be, Ali Farr told The Stray Ferret that she is still apprehensive and hopes there isn’t a second wave. She said:

“It has all been quite overwhelming, if it happens on New Year’s Eve it will be amazing, but I am trying not to get too excited just in case, but who knows what’s going to happen.”

The Majestic Hotel in Harrogate will host Ali and Ben’s wedding at the end of the year.

The Cedar Court Hotel in Harrogate also offered their venue up for the couples wedding. Guests travelling from as far as Australia and Singapore have been told about the new date.

The couple, who have been working throughout the crisis, have still had no correspondence with St George Hotel except for the information given on their website.

Harrogate hotel group leader warns of ‘carnage’ ahead

The closure of the St George Hotel is symptomatic of the huge challenges facing the hospitality industry, according to the leader of the group representing the largest hotels in the Harrogate district.

Peter Banks, chairman of Harrogate Hospitality and Tourism Association, told The Stray Ferret: “They will be the first of many in the country. It’s going to be carnage. The high street will be changed for good.”

With Harrogate Convention Centre still set up as a Nightingale hospital and remaining on stand-by for an indefinite period, Mr Banks, who is general manager at Rudding Park, said there is a large question mark hanging over the viability of the industry in the district.

“What about all the bedrooms that go hand-in-hand with the convention centre? If it’s a hospital for a year, all of those big shows won’t be going on and all their attendees and delegates will not be staying in the hotel bedrooms.

“Only about three per cent of the bedrooms I sell are related to the convention centre, but there are other hotels that are much more like 30, 40, 50 per cent. Where’s that business going to come from?”

Sitting opposite the convention centre, the St George was likely to have been more affected than most by it being out of use for events. But Mr Banks said being part of a business which also operated coach tours put it at greater risk than many of the district’s other hotels.

Peter Banks

Peter Banks, chairman of Harorgate Hospitality and Tourism Association

While quarantine restrictions are in place for overseas travel, Harrogate is likely to get a boost from UK tourists. However, Mr Banks said HHTA’s thoughts haven’t yet turned to how the district can capitalise on this and market itself effectively:

“Right now, everybody is just trying to work out how the hell we’re going to operate. We’re that far away from creating any marketing plans. If you can’t work out how people are going to go to the loo safely, it might be putting the cart before the horse.”

Weight of responsibility

He criticised the guidance from the government as “about as clear as mud”, saying they had left businesses to try to work out how to operate safely without straightforward rules. Hotel owners, he said, felt an enormous weight of responsibility to protect staff and visitors from the risk of catching Covid-19 and were constantly re-writing their plans as government guidance changed.

For example, he said reducing the number of staff in hotel kitchens means overhauling menus – and putting those menus onto apps instead of passing them between staff and customers. Even simple things like passing in corridors and using toilets will have to be considered and controlled. He added:

“My hotel manager said it’s going to be like re-opening a new hotel. It’s going to be like opening a new hotel on Mars. The rules are going to be entirely different and we’re going to have to change things day by day while we work out how it works.”

Rudding Park hotel

Peter Banks says re-opening Rudding Park will be ‘like opening a new hotel on Mars’

Mr Banks said he expects most of the hotels in Harrogate to be large enough to sustain themselves through the current turmoil. For restaurants, however, he said even if they are able to reopen in the coming weeks, social distancing may make it impossible for them to break even, let alone make a profit.

“The furlough scheme has been a life-saver, but frankly all it’s doing is kicking the can down the road. We’re all going to have to cope without the support of the government at some point. It’s delaying the inevitable when a lot of smaller businesses will not be able to make a profit.

“If they have to get 70 per cent occupancy to break even in restaurants, what’s the point? They just won’t open.

The hospitality industry is extremely worried. Everyone is getting ready to open in July at some point but everyone is worried about what it’s going to look like.”

Short-term ‘bounce’

As well as the hotel receptionists, cleaners, kitchen porters, accountants and others who lose their jobs when a hotel closes, Mr Banks said there is a ripple effect to others such as food suppliers. Even the move to cashless systems to reduce the risk of infection will result in job losses, as cashing up is no longer needed and couriers won’t be required to take money to the bank.

The result could be further redundancies being made across all industries, leaving people with less cash in their pockets. While Mr Banks said he expects a short-term “bounce” for many hotels and restaurants soon after reopening, he said the winter could be very quiet as people run out of money they have saved during lockdown, or more job losses hit across the UK.

However, he sounded a note of optimism for the Harrogate district.

“Harrogate is an awful lot more fortunate than a lot of other places. We have a great natural resource, a really beautiful built environment, unlike so many other places. We will be less affected than others.”

Wedding in ruins for Harrogate nurse and paramedic after hotel firm collapses

“I’ve had enough” Ali Farr told the Stray Ferret after her wedding plans have been left in ruins.

Ali, a community nurse in Knaresborough and Boroughbridge, and her partner, Ben Cross, a paramedic, had planned to hold their wedding reception at the St George Hotel on May 1st.  More than a hundred guests were due to arrive from as far away as Singapore and Australia. Then lockdown struck and the date was cancelled.

So Ali and Ben re-arranged the whole thing -on the anniversary of day they got together 12 years ago, New Years Eve.  It meant moving everything, it was more expensive and they had to sacrifice the wedding ceremony at St John’s Church. Then a few days ago, Ali  heard the St George had gone into administration:

“I’ve had no correspondence from anybody. We’ve already paid £5,000 – most on credit cards but I think the £800 deposit will be lost because we booked it on a debit card two years ago.

“My dress is at the seamstress, I’ve got the bridesmaid’s dresses, the boy’s suits, I’ve paid a lot of money for the entertainment, the photographer, the videographer and a car.

“I’ve had enough. You don’t know what’s going to happen do you? It’s just tough.”

Throughout the crisis Ali and Ben have been working on the front line of healthcare.

“I am a nurse, Ben’s a paramedic, we’ve got a little girl. We’ve worked throughout the crisis as key workers.

My would-be guests have been lovely – on May 1st they made a video for us. On the day we had a cake to cut, we gave each other a present on the morning and my little girl threw some petals around – she was supposed to be our flower girl. “

Ali and Ben’s guests held a zoom celebration for them to cheer them up

 

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