Stray Foodie Christmas Recipe: Cheese Stollen

Stray Foodie Christmas Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Over the festive period, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

 

This recipe is designed to use all your odds and ends up from the fridge during this period.  Making a tasty base to load on preserves, meats, salad, grains or anything you wish!  We are calling this a Cheese Stollen, a savoury effort modelled on Bettys‘ simply delicious sweet marzipan stollen which is a treat for me every year. We have made a Stollen from a brioche dough and a basic bun dough. It sounds complicated, but it certainly isn’t as you will see as you read through the recipe.

Stollen is traditionally a fruit bread made from spices and candied fruits and by heritage it is Germany’s answer to Italy’s panettoni. At this time of year there seems to be a muddled variety as far as quality and authenticity is concerned.

Our cheese stollen is a brioche wrapped in a bun dough with a small amount of mixed peel, raisins and cheese.

For the Brioche Dough

The ingredients can be halved, but I like to keep a little in the fridge for general use. It is so handy to bring out of the fridge, knead it, shape it and pop it in the oven for that fabulous warm brioche at breakfast.

Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the water and let it work for a couple of minutes.

Add the beaten eggs and pour into a mixing bowl.

Add the flour and salt and mix to a stiff dough either by hand or using the dough hook of an electric mixer.

When the mixture is smooth, beat in the butter in small pieces. The finished dough should have a silky appearance.

Place it in an oiled bowl, loosely cover and rest overnight in the fridge.

For the basic bun 

This bun dough is great for donuts and other buns too.

Dissolve the yeast in the water at blood temperature.

Sieve the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl.

Rub in the butter and then add the eggs.

Add the yeast and enough water to obtain a soft dough.

Cover and rest the dough for 10 mins.

Knead well until the dough becomes firm and springy.

Place in a bowl dusted with flour and allow to rise until double in size –  this should take approximately 30 mins.

Take the rested brioche out of the fridge and knead with flour, then rest again for 30 mins.

Knead the cheese into the brioche and roll into a sausage.

Roll out the dough into a rectangle and egg wash.

Sprinkle over the mixed peel and raisins.

Roll it around your brioche sausage.

With the remaining beaten egg, wash the bun dough.

Place on a baking tray and let it double in size.

Place in a heated oven at 210c and cook for approximately 30 minutes.

When cool, slice and the light cheese brioche with the slight hint of sweetness from the peel and raisins and the crisp bread is simply scrummy!

If you would rather not have the raisins and peel keeping it completely savoury you could use mixed, chopped fresh herbs or a pesto.

If all this is just too much, have a good walk and reward yourself with a lunch or take away at our Paradise Food Wagon, where we will be happy to serve you from Tuesday 29th December.

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Stray Foodie Christmas Recipe: Chocolate Ganache Terrine

Stray Foodie Christmas Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

In the run-up to Christmas, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This Chocolate Ganache Terrine is the most delicious, rich chocolate cake that is highly suitable for chocoholics and perhaps a big treat to have at Christmas. It should be noted that a little goes a long way!

Many chocoholics would consider this as being called divine.

Originally in chocolate history the Mayans believed the pods of the cocao tree were an offering from the Gods to man.  When a Swedish botanist gave if a formal classification in the 18th Century he called it the Theobroma Cacao meaning the “drink of the Gods” from the Greek Theos (God) and Broma (beverage).

Up until the 19th Century chocolate existed in a liquid form when it became solid the early British producers were Quakers. They recognised their product might help their crusade against the evils of alcohol! Ironically my recipe has a lot of alcohol in it and together they form a powerful product.

For the Ganache

For the Topping

Line a heavy based terrine mould, approx. 10 inches with a double layer of cling film.

Separate the Eggs and whisk the egg white and sugar together.

When stiff, add the egg yolks.

Melt the chocolate carefully over a pan of boiling water or in the microwave.

Add to the egg mixture.

Mix the instant coffee granules in to the rum, whip the cream, add the instant coffee in to the whipped cream.

Fold in the gluten free flour and then the whipped cream in to the chocolate. (Make sure this is done in this order.)

Place the chocolate mixture in the terrine and place in a roasting tin of water, a bain marie. Cook at 150c – 180c, dependant on oven variation for 35 mins or until the chocolate has set.  Cool in the terrine mould overnight in the fridge.

For the topping the next day melt the chocolate, mix in the cream and pour over the ganache. Let it set up. This is now ready to thinly slice and serve with whipped cream or an accompaniment of your choice.

The divine smoothness of the chocolate lends itself to the aroma of a “cheffie” pine bud garnish or orange for the more conservative. The Rum from Harrogate Tipple in it makes the perfect taste sensation.

We have already talked in our previous recipes about Harrogate Tipple Christmas Gin and their Rum is equally superb. Taylors of Harrogate have a selection of marvellous blended coffee which I would recommend. Perhaps I would suggest Mundo Maya Arabica Coffee for its intensity and complexity, but you could great fun here sampling the different blends.

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Stray Foodie: Festive Vegetable and Leek Strudel

Stray Foodie Christmas Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

In the run-up to Christmas, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

 

This is a versatile dish that can be enjoyed as an alternative to overly rich traditional Christmas food. It can also be made to be great fun incorporating all those leftover nibbles in the fridge. Either way this is healthy, glamorous and cost effective food.

From your local supermarket you should be able to buy a fresh spice set including ginger, coriander, basil, chilli, lime leaf, lemon grass and garlic.

I personally love kaffir lime leaves; I have them all over the house as they give such a lovely citrus aroma! They can be ordered especially for you at Daleside Nurseries.

The spice set needs to be blended raw with a little sesame oil to make a paste. Please note the chilli can be quite hot so do make sure the seeds are removed using disposable gloves.

Having prepared the spices we can now get on with the recipe.

Ingredients:

1 x packet Filo Pastry (I always keep a packet in my fridge or freezer at this time of year, which comes in handy for those unexpected meals)

100g Melted Butter

250g Root and Mediterranean prepared and diced vegetables of your choice (medium sized chunks)

60g Cooked Chickpeas

200g Whipping Cream

1 x Leek

1 x tsp Cumin Seed

1 x Pomegranate

2 x Medjool Dates

Pomegranate Molasses

A bunch of peppery Watercress

The ingredients for the vegetable and leek strudel

Method:

Fry the diced vegetables with the blended spices and cook until tender.

Remove from the pan and cool.

Add the chickpeas.

Wash and chop the leek and cook in the whipping cream with a little seasoning until soft, then allow to cool.

Take 3 sheets of filo pastry and place on your work surface.

Brush with melted butter.

Down the middle, place a line of the spiced vegetables. Roll it and brush with butter.

Place in the middle of two more sheets of filo, brushing all over with melted butter. Add the leek on top of the roll and again wrap the pastry over it.

Roll again in two more buttered sheets.

Brush with melted butter all over and sprinkle with cumin seeds.

Place on a greased pan and cook at 180c – 200c for 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and slice.

Serve with Pomegranate, medjool dates and a drizzle of Pomegranate Molasses and Watercress.

An alternative to Pomegranate could be a spoonful of that delicious Cranberry Relish that you have in your fridge purchased from Paradise Food!

You could even try some of your leftover turkey in this dish – it is delicious. For a special treat, pair with a glass of Taittinger Rose Champagne!

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Stray Foodie: Christmas Mince Pies

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This week’s recipe is for Christmas Mince Pies

This time of year many households are either purchasing or making their own Mince Pies with their own personal slant. Some people will put orange in their pastry, other people use flaky pastry rather than sweet pastry, and the creative making their own mince meat may leave out beef suet and replace with vegetable suet or even leave out altogether.

It is the suet that actually determines what this traditional dish was once meant to be. It was a small spiced meat pie with dried fruit with brandy added.  The brandy acted as a preservative. These were made slightly in advance for Christmas. As time has gone on there was a shortage of meat, so the suet replaced the meat. Now in these current times why do we need the suet? The fat from the suet will combine the juices, sugar and alcohol, but of course, there are other ways to do this. Why not experiment by using a little flavoured oil or coconut oil rather than suet.

Good cooking is all about creativity and organisation; it is not difficult but can be time consuming. Maybe that is why most people prefer to buy a jar of ready prepared mincemeat. I personally find it much more exciting to think about my own flavours to celebrate Christmas.

Here is a recipe that I hope you will enjoy! For a beautiful festive pairing, try with Bettys Christmas Coffee blend. 

For the mincemeat, you will need:

Method:

Mix all the ingredients together! You could also add a touch of chilli, extra apple or grated ginger. Let this stand overnight.

For the pastry, you will need:

Method:

Rub the fat into the flour and combine the egg and chill. Add splash of water if needed, but handle the pastry as little as possible. I like the lard as it adds a shortness to the pastry, but you could easily substitute that for butter if preferred.

Line your chosen tins with the pastry and add the filling. You can either cover the top for a closed pie or leave open and cover with glazed apple, cinnamon and sugar. For something a little different, you could roll out some marzipan and add some grated orange on top!

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Stray Foodie: Sugar and spice and all things nice

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

 

Sugared Almonds, Crystalised Fruits, Dates, Figs and Spices are the delicious foods that we associate with the end of year culinary preparations for our respected festivities.

Historically these ingredients were considered treats as they weren’t so readily available as they are today. Aroma is the powerful sense that stimulates the memory in our brain instantly bringing back recollections that in most cases are good at creating the desire for certain foods! The smell of sugar and spice is very evocative and is one such example.

This week’s recipe is a gluten free almond cake.

The recipe I have this week is one I promised a reader; Paradise’s very versatile recipe for Almond Cake. At Paradise we love versatility with food because we are on a constant voyage of discovery so far as flavours are concerned. This recipe has a large proportion of sugar in it and gluten free flour making it a good cake for keeping and for anyone eating a Gluten Free diet.

Frances’ gluten free almond cake

It is delicious served with crystalised fruits, sugared almonds, dates and figs and spices of your choice. I prefer a little grated nutmeg, complimenting the fruits. A glass of Harrogate Tipple Christmas Gin with a little tonic is a good accompaniment!

For the recipe you need:

The almond cake ingredients

Method:

Line a loose bottomed cake tin with silicone paper.

Pre heat the oven to 180c or Gas 4.

Put all the ingredients together in to a food processor and give a good whizz round and pour it into the cake tin.

Place in the centre of the oven for 40 minutes until it is firm.

Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

When cooled remove from the cake tin and cover with a flavoured frosting of your choice, sugared almonds and crystalised fruits.

Frosting Recipe:

This is a great alternative celebration cake which is light and easy.

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Stray Foodie: a hint of Festive flavours

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

As we are beginning to get a little Christmasey here at Paradise takeaway (for the moment!) to cheer ourselves up during these quiet November days, the seasonal and warming flavours of this dish produce an excitement on the palate and makes us think of all the good things to come!

This week’s recipe is Chestnut, Yellow Beetroot, Clementine and Sticky Ham.

A large glass of Ginger Wine enhances the earthy, healthy flavours making once more a very versatile dish that can be extended or made more delicate, as required.

For the ingredients, per portion, you will require:

Chestnut, Yellow Beetroot, Watercress, Clementine and Sticky Ham

Method:

Roast the Beetroot at 200c for 30 mins with a little oil, garlic and mixed herbs.

After 15 mins add nipped Chestnuts (with the skins cut to stop them exploding!)

Cook for a further 15 mins and remove the beetroot and chestnuts from the oven.

Peel the clementine and remove pith and segment.

Cut the fresh ginger into thin strips.

Slice the bacon into 1cm thick strips.

Put the orange juice, maple and shallot in a pan and bring to the boil.

Add bacon and ginger.

Cook until nicely caramelised, approx. 15 mins.

Add the beetroot and chestnuts.

Arrange on a plate with lots of dressed watercress and the Tapenade.

A dollop of Sour Cream or Yoghurt adds a touch of luxury.

A Recipe for the dressing:

Mix together.  This will make a great dressing for the watercress and will stand you in good stead kept in the fridge for future use.

Once again, adding fresh herb such as rosemary, coriander and basil will always enhance further.

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Stray Foodie: an autumn surprise for the taste buds

Stray Foodie Lockdown Recipes are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Throughout lockdown, I’ll be bringing you some of my favourite seasonal recipes each week. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This week’s recipe is Wild Mushroom, Coconut Rice, Celeriac, Kale, Turmeric & Humous.

Designed to be a starter, vegetarian main course or a side dish, the quantities are for 1.

For a special occasion I recommend it being partnered with a fabulous quality sparking wine, such as Brut Dunesford Pinot Gris 2018; made just outside of York, it has a refined dryness, is slightly sweet on the palate and well balanced. With the turmeric in this dish, it makes a huge sensation in the mouth. How exciting it is to be able to produce local food partnered with local wine? It is rare and quite special.

The ingredients for this dish

For the recipe I have taken:

The finished dish

Method:

Peel the Celeriac and with a medium size cutter cut out 4 discs.

Poach in a little water (or stock or your choice), butter, salt and pepper until cooked.

Sauté off the mixed mushrooms in a little oil, salt and pepper.

Finely chop the green chilli, taking care to remove the seeds.

Stir the chilli in to the rice with the coconut milk, grated ginger and a sprinkling of chopped herbs.

Mix the grated turmeric in the white balsamic.

Pour the lime juice over the kale.

Build the celeriac, rice and mushrooms on a plate, finishing with the humous and placing the turmeric on top.

Garnish with the remaining ingredients.

This is delicious and can also be prepared in advance which always helps a busy cook!

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Stray Foodie: Lockdown recipes to cheer us up

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Usually my role at the Stray Ferret is to bring you a monthly review of a local restaurant or café. With the news that restaurants have once again been forced to close, these usual monthly reviews have been put on the back burner.

That doesn’t mean we can’t still support local restaurants. Like so many others in the area, my own business, Paradise Foods, is continuing to provide takeaway food – just come along, see what you would like to eat, and take home that special dish. We also have bespoke hampers for your dinner parties at home.

Hampers by Paradise Foods

Whilst we are all spending more time at home, I will be bringing you a new feel-good recipe each week to hopefully inspire you to try something new.

All of the recipes will be versatile for you to tailor it to your own personal taste. I’d love to see how you make the recipes your own – let me know by using #StrayFoodie or tagging @thestrayferret in your social media posts.

This week’s recipe is Broccoli, Cashew, Parsnip, Maple, Mixed Kales and Crouton.

This dish works well on its own or as a great accompaniment to smoked haddock in a pesto cream, hot smoked salmon or parma ham – or even a lime-based cocktail!

For 1 generous portion you will need:

I also used the last of the season’s Nasturtium seeds, flowers and leaf. These can be substituted with coriander, basil or mint flowers for flavour.

Method:

Place the olive oil in a pan with the parsnips and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the Cashews for 1 ½ minutes.

Add the Broccoli and Kale, Herb Pesto and stir well.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the Maple Syrup.

Garnish with the Mixed Herbs, Spring Onion and Croutons.

If you would like to be a little adventurous with the croutons, you can always add Marmite, cream cheese and a squeeze of Lime for that umami taste!

Paradise Foods is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am until 2pm, at Daleside Nurseries, Killinghall HG3 2AY. 

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Stray Foodie: The Wild Plum, Harrogate

Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

The Wild Plum, Hookstone Road, Harrogate, HG2 8BW

 

Frances’ Lunch: Crazy A-Bao You for £13.50 and a cup of coffee for £3.25

Looking up at the pink neon ‘Wild’ sign I thought to myself, am I in the Hardrock Café or is this a dream?

I was in fact in a restaurant located above a very popular ladies’ couture venue, The Snooty Frox, in Harrogate.

The Wild Plum Café is busy, modern, clean and bright and I’ve been told customers queue to enter such a hallowed space. It certainly is the place to be; it’s a vibrant and trendy space. A great contrast to the entrance, where I was met by the Lady of the House who was most charming. I was shown upstairs and found Girl Power at its best.

Head Chef, Bethany, daughter of the Snooty Frox owners, rules with her two female colleagues dressed in great ‘modern Chef’ gear.

The three chefs, including the head chef, Bethany (middle).

They were dishing out bags of style from an open kitchen with fabulous bottles of fermented fruit and vegetables. This immediately says, ‘serious kitchen’.

This is clever food; artistic, creative and hot (in every sense of the word). The Menu included the sort of food you can eat at any time of the day, assuming the seasoning is taken care of.

I was spoilt for choice but had the home-made Crazy A-Bao You with Carrot Kimchi, Sesame Soy Crispy Egg and Sriracha Mayo with the Crispy Cornflake Chicken. It arrived as Bao Buns – which were as pink as the Neon sign – in a bamboo steamer.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or café?

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Carrot Kimchi was on its base with Cornflake Chicken-style burgers and Crispy Eggs topped with a wonderful array of culinary flora. It had a syringe of Mayo at its side and some sweet jam. This was a very generous portion.

There were plenty of other choices and I was very tempted to have the Butternut Squash Fritter (GF) which was Mexican-style with smashed avocado, poached egg, rocket, sweet chilli jam, roasted garlic yoghurt and homemade salsa.

The indoor seating area of The Wild Plum. Above (and featured) image credit: Ben Bentley.

The Wild Plum Buddha Bowl sounded so exciting but with so much going on. Maybe – for a slightly reserved palate – a little confusing?

This food was exciting, tasty and young and I was told everything is made fresh on the premises. Looking around the Café, the other dishes were colourful and lovely.

Knowledge of flavour and ingredients comes with experience and perhaps not always so exciting but leaves a longer lasting impression.

These are exciting times in the culinary world, as it is all changing. It is young dedicated female chefs, like Bethany, who will shortly be leading the way in our industry, certainly in Harrogate.

To find out more about The Wild Plum click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

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Stray Foodie: Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge

Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.

Grantham Arms, Milby, Boroughbridge YO51 9BW

 

Frances’ Meal: Starter: Garlic Prawns with Samphire £9.95 Main Course: Steak Pie £14.95  Glass of Picpoul: £4.30

The Grantham Arms is a grey painted building that stands on a roundabout as you enter Boroughbridge. I suspect it was once a charming coaching inn but now at the side of a very busy road – not the most salubrious positions. Its fake grass and fairy lights make a statement.

The welcome I received from the young man behind the bar, Sam, was exemplary. It was a busy bar with guests of all ages.

I was with a friend who is the head of a hospitality department at a university. A young lady called Jess showed us to our table and looked after our experience for the duration of the evening. There were brown leather chairs, square tables, candles and bric-a-brac throughout. I imagine in the evening it would be very atmospheric.

The front room of Grantham Arms.

Jess was warm, friendly, with an extensive knowledge of the menu, which catered for all tastes.

To start with we shared Garlic Prawns with Samphire. The Samphire would have welcomed a little less heat.

She advised us that the Pies were a speciality and the thing to have. So, I had the steak pie which was well-made with good pastry and generously presented. I am not sure if the blue cheese in the gravy worked with such good ingredients; it might suit someone with a more robust palate. The cooking of the vegetables was excellent which is a rare achievement.

Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or cafe? 

From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.

The Chicken Supreme, which my friend ordered, was of grand proportions with a well-made sauce. I was assured it tasted good. However, I would have liked to have seen it looking more comfortable in the sauce with thinly sliced mushrooms, chopped chives and sliced to add a little elegance.

The choice of wines were very limited and they would have benefited from a wider selection of grape variety to balance with the dishes on offer.

The Dessert Menu looked tempting but unfortunately, we were too full. It looked interesting and was the sort of menu that meant no waste for the kitchen. Perhaps a seasonal weekly dessert might be a thought. A Syrup & Apple Sponge or similar nursery pudding for the winter the months might be a popular idea for their regulars.

The atmosphere was young and vibrant and made by the service staff. Such courtesy is always a pleasure to receive.

The outside seating area.

The kitchen, given suitable direction, has the makings of a successful brigade, although, I was disappointed to find the Head Chef was not on duty at the time of my visit, nor was any form of senior management.

If you are hungry the pricing is of very good value and you won’t be disappointed. I am sure it will increase in popularity as a neighbourhood restaurant. In these difficult times, it is a place to be valued.

To find out more about Grantham Arms click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.

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