Stray Gardener: Top tips for successful propagation

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona gives you her top tips for propagating a new plant. 

 

Softwood cuttings are a great way to get started with propagation and as long as you follow a few simple rules you are guaranteed success.  A wide variety of perennials, deciduous shrubs and some trees can be rooted this way.

Plants such as Osteospermum, Penstemon, Pelargonium, Verbena, Salvia, Fuchsia, Sambucus (Elder), Hydrangea, deciduous Magnolia and more can all be rooted very successfully this way.

Pelargonium

Softwood cuttings are generally taken from spring to early summer, although I have had some success with soft woodcuttings of Penstemon and Pelargonium taken in August or September. They still have time to root before winter and can then be potted on in the spring quite happily.

Try and get your cutting material from young plants, the cuttings will root more easily as they have more natural rooting hormones, however, you can heavily prune older plants, feed and water well, and these can then produce new softer growth that will root more quickly.

When it comes to taking the cuttings, you need to work quickly, soft plant material loses moisture quickly once detached from the plant, so it is important to either get the material into a jar of water or a plastic bag immediately after cutting.  Try and get out of the sun as quickly as possible too, with the early morning or evening the best time to crop from the plants.

It is also important you inspect the plant and chose healthy strong shoots with no evident pests and diseases and preferably no flowers or buds. You need to take off around 10cm of the chosen shoot, although this does depend on the type and size of plant you are working with. Once collected, if you can’t take the cuttings straight away, put them in a fridge to keep them cool.

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When preparing the cuttings, use a sharp knife or pair of snippers, most do best if you cut to the node (found at a leaf joint), as this is where roots will grow from, although some plants such as Clematis do better as internodal cuttings (cut in between two leaf joints), the roots will grow from the internode.

Once you have trimmed to the node, remove the lower leaves and in most cases the tip can then be removed too.  I have found some plants do best if the tip is left in and removed once it has rooted, so it may be worth trying to see if it works for you too! The cutting can then be dipped in rooting hormone powder if you prefer, although a few plants will root perfectly well without it such as Pelargonium.

The cuttings then need to be inserted into a good well-drained propagation compost, make sure the leaves sit just above the compost and do not get buried at all, as this can be a source of rot in the cutting.  Water the cuttings from above as this will settle them in well.

Cuttings in propagator

If you are lucky enough to have a propagator, then place the cuttings into the propagator and keep them semi shaded.  If not, they will root perfectly well placed in a plastic bag that is tied at the top and put on a windowsill out of direct sunlight.  Keep checking the cuttings to ensure they are moist enough, generally three to four weeks is enough to get good roots on a soft woodcutting.  Then it’s just a case of taking them out of the propagator and once you see the roots coming out of the bottom of the pot, get them potted on.

Voila! You have the start of some new plants, have a go, it really is worthwhile.

Five top tips for July:

Stray Gardener: Why not try a new type of propagation this spring?

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona takes you step-by-step through air layering.

 

 

If you’d like to try a different type of propagation this spring, it might be worth having a go at air layering.  Especially effective for plants that don’t root well from other forms of propagation, or don’t have low growing shoots that can be used for conventional layering on the ground, it is quite a slow process and patience is required, but it is well worth it.

Quite a few different plants can be used for air layering, including Acer, Camellia, Chaenomeles, Daphne, Ficus, Hamamelis, Jasmine, Rhododendrons, Lilac and Viburnums.  The best time of year to carry out air layering, especially with evergreen plants, is the spring, but it can also be done in autumn too, where deciduous plants can do equally as well.

A Rhododendron

It is a very simple process.  Choose a one to two year old stem that is straight and healthy and at least pencil thick in diameter.  It is important to get a young stem, as it will be more vigorous and healthy to produce new roots more easily.  Trim off any side shoots and leaves from a 30cm section and make sure not to leave any snags (these can be a source of disease or decay).

Wounding the stem

The stem then needs to be wounded, with a cut at least 2.5cm long and cut through a leaf bud that is angled towards the shoot tip. The best concentrations of natural rooting hormone can be found nearest to buds.  A small matchstick can be used to open up the cut to help add rooting hormone powder to the surface of the wound and a small amount of damp moss (which can be purchased from florists or some garden centres) can be put in to the wound and then wrapped around loosely with black plastic. Black plastic is preferable to use rather than clear or white, as green algae can form and can be another source of disease.

Damp moss is then placed into the wound

The black plastic can then be sealed at one end either with string or with weather proof adhesive tape. Once that is done it is a simple method just to pack in more moss around the wound to ensure it is protected and has enough moisture around it, a thickness of around 7.5 to 10cm should be adequate. The other end can then be sealed up.

After that, it’s just a waiting game, the wrapping needs to stay in place for at least a year, but can be opened and checked occasionally for signs of rooting, making sure it is sealed well again to avoid it drying out.  Once strong new roots appear through the moss, the plastic sleeve can be removed and the stem can be cut through just below the rooted section.

The finished product

The rooted stem can then be potted up in compost suitable for the plant that has rooted.  Don’t try to take the moss off the roots as it could damage them, just add it into the pot too.  Then, water, label and grow on until large enough to plant out in your chosen position.

Air layering does take a little more time and effort, but if you have a plant in your garden you value, and have had trouble propagating from in the past (or a replacement would be very expensive), then this could be a good thing to try.

Happy propagating!

Fiona’s Five Top Tips for May:

  1. Bedding plants can start going out at the end of the month, but keep an eye out for late frosts and cover with fleece if any are forecast
  2. Try to water either first thing in the morning or in the evening, for the plants to make the most of the water which could evaporate in the middle of the day
  3. Divide Primulas once they have finished flowering
  4. Put in place supports for herbaceous plants before they start getting leggy
  5. This is a good time to coppice Eucalyptus for fresh young foliage and to keep them in good condition
Stray Gardener: The golden rules to growing tomatoes

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona gives her golden rules for growing tomatoes.

 

I was 13 years old when I grew my first tomato plants, after inheriting a glasshouse when we moved into a new house. I was coached in what I thought was the secret art of tomato growing, by a lovely old man who lived around the corner. In fact, if you just stick to a few simple rules, tomatoes are really easy to grow, and the rewards when the fruit are ready are well worth the trouble.

The golden rules to growing tomatoes:

Don’t sow the seed too early, unless you have a heated glasshouse with lights and automatic ventilators it is far better to wait until late March, early April when they will grow far more successfully. Tomatoes hate getting cold. (They really do sulk!)

Choose between cordon or bush varieties, cordons need to be trained up canes, tied in, and the side shoots removed to stop them branching out and to focus the effort into flowers and fruit. Bush varieties don’t need to be trained and will grow well in a pot or hanging basket.  The seed packet will tell you which they are.

Golden Sun tomatoes

Grow the plants in a good multi-purpose compost, or you can get special tomato growing bags with the compost ready mixed.

Water regularly and try to avoid giving the plants too little and too much water. Tomatoes are very sensitive to fluctuations in moisture.

Feed once a week when the first fruit has set with a high potassium fertiliser. There are some very good organic tomato fertilisers available.

Try to keep the temperature around 16 degrees as tomatoes really do resent being too cold and too hot.

If you are growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, get the doors and ventilators open during the day to encourage in pollinating insects for a bumper crop of fruit. You can also spend a little time in the middle of the day, gently tapping the plants to get them to release their pollen (a very satisfying job, honestly!)

Tomatoes growing in a polytunnel

As mentioned before, cordon tomatoes need to be trained. They can either be grown and tied into canes, or can be grown up string that can be would round the plant as it grows upwards. Both ways work well, and as long as the plants have their side shoots removed regularly, they stay tidy and produce a good number of flowers (just make sure you don’t remove the growing tip as this would stop the plant growing any taller and possibly means you would lose out on more flowers and consequently more fruit).

In most cases, once you reach around six trusses it is worth taking out the growing tip then, to allow the plant to put its energy into fruit production before the weather starts to get cooler and the day length gets shorter. Bush plants are much easier just give them room to grow and they will get on with it.

Multiple varieties of tomatoes.

By the end of July you will start to get fruit ripening and all the hard work will suddenly become worth it. Until I grew my own tomatoes, I would refuse to eat them as I thought they tasted vile. That is when I realised why, they were not allowed to ripen properly on the plant.  A fully ripened tomato picked straight from the plant, that is still warm, is a thing of beauty.

Go on, get sowing!

Fiona’s Five Top Tips for April:

1. Sow seed indoors for courgettes, marrows, pumpkins and squashes at the end of the month.
2. If possible, protect fruit blossom from late frosts.
3. April is the perfect month to sow a wildflower meadow.
4. Loosen any tree ties to avoid them becoming too tight over the growing season.
5. Sow hardy annual flowers for a colourful summer season.
Stray Gardener: March is the perfect time to start planting seedlings

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona explains the different ways to sow seed.

 

March is the time of year when a lot of different types of seed can be sown successfully. There is nothing so rewarding as being able to grow a plant from seed and either enjoy its beautiful blooms throughout the summer or reap the rewards of tasty vegetables home grown by yourself. If you follow a few easy steps and quite often just follow the instructions on the packet, you can have success!

So where do you start? It makes sense to choose seed that you really want to grow. Read the packet instructions closely to ensure you can provide the right conditions that germinating seed will need. Most seed will need good light conditions, the correct temperature (usually given on the seed packet) and moisture. It is more than possible to grow and raise seeds on a windowsill. I do it myself every year.

Sweet pea seedlings planted in cardboard tubes.

Seed can be sown in a variety of different containers, for example, sweet pea seeds are best grown in cardboard tubes or root trainers which are tall thin containers to allow the plants a good root run and also minimal root disturbance when planted. Calendula (Pot Marigold) on the other hand, is best grown in a small seed tray or pot to allow them to grow to a size large enough to handle to be pricked out into larger pots. Whichever one you use, ensure it is clean and dry to avoid passing on any pests and diseases to your seedlings.

The next thing to think about is what material you grow your seeds in, the compost you choose is important, depending on the size and type of seed. Generally, shop bought seed compost works very well and is ready sterilised. It is important to ensure the compost is reasonably fine and well-drained. This is especially important for small seed to ensure good contact with the soil for germination.

Firmed down compost

For sowing smaller seed, fill your container with compost, and tap down to remove excess air holes. Smooth the compost off to get a level, flat surface, and then firm down either with another pot or tray with a flat bottom or a specially made wooden tamper. You now have a good surface to scatter your seed onto. Be careful not to sow too thickly as this can cause problems later on. Firm down the seeds to get good contact with the compost, and then, if the seeds requires it, cover with a thin layer of vermiculite, perlite or compost (generally until you can’t see the seed anymore). After that, I prefer to soak the seed from underneath in a tray of water as there is less chance of displacing the seeds and it ensures the compost is fully moist.

For larger seed, such as peas or beans, you can sow them individually or in pairs. Lay the seed on top of each cardboard tube or section of the root trainer and once all the seeds are placed, you can then push them down into the compost, usually a finger nail deep but it does depend on the size of seed. Then cover over the hole with more compost and water in thoroughly.

A variety of seedlings

Keeping the seed packets for future reference is very useful and helps with going on to the next stage of growing. Don’t forget to label your seeds, and if you have too many, share them with your friends.

Happy sowing!

Fiona’s Five Top Tips for March

  1. Now is the time to cut back any Cornus or Willow grown for their colourful stems
  2. March is a great time to divide congested clumps of grasses
  3. Plant onion and shallot sets
  4. Divide and re-plant bulbs in the green such as snow drops and winter aconites
  5. Pot on Dahlia tubers and place in the greenhouse to start to grow before planting out in May
Stray Gardener: Create a legacy and plant a tree

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona explains how and why you should plant a tree.

 

One of the most satisfying things to do in life is to plant a tree, not only is it contributing to helping the environment by providing habitats for wildlife, reducing carbon dioxide in the environment and enhancing your local area.  They are great for your mental health, spending time with trees is a very relaxing and mindful thing to do and you are creating a legacy for generations of people for years to come.

But how do you get started?  First of all, it is important you research your trees well and choose one that is suitable for your site.  My heart always sinks when I see a tree such as the majestic monkey puzzle in a very small front garden, knowing it will never achieve its full life span of a 1000 years as it will have to be taken down long before that to avoid damage to the building it is next to.

Trees are best planted from October to April in the cooler dormant period of the year. This also means you can buy a bare root tree which is cheaper and are only available at this time. You can plant container grown trees too with the advantage that these can be planted pretty much all year round, but it does mean a lot more watering to get them established.

Once you are ready to plant, you need to dig a hole at least three times as wide as the pot or root spread and the same depth. Container grown plants benefit from having the roots gently loosened to help them to get established more quickly. It is a good idea to thoroughly soak the roots in a bucket of water before planting, some people also add a special powder with a fungus called mycorrhizae which can help the roots to establish quicker.

The tree can then be placed in the hole making sure that the point where the roots meet the trunk is level with the surface of the soil. You can use your spade placed horizontally across the hole to check if you are not sure the level is right.

Fastening a tree tie to the stake for stability

Then, it is just a case of refilling the hole, firming well and making sure there are no air pockets around the roots that could cause the root to dry out before establishing. Make sure the stem stays upright as you do this.

You may need to add a tree guard or spiral if you think there is a chance that the stems could get nibbled. Very small trees shouldn’t need staking and will grow better without one. Larger trees that may be top heavy will probably need to be staked to support them until they get established, usually this takes around 2 years. The stake is best put in at a 45% angle and the tree tied with a rubber or jute tie which can be screwed or nailed to the stake to keep it in place. Don’t forget to check the stakes and ties regularly and loosen as the tree grows.

A staked Davidia involucrata tree

After that, water well if conditions are dry and then add a layer of mulch around the base of the tree, making sure not to mulch right up to the stem as they can get smothered.

If you know somewhere you could put a tree, why not have a go this weekend and start creating a legacy.

Happy planting!

Fiona’s 5 Top Tips for February

  1. This is the perfect time to start dividing and re-planting snowdrops and winter aconites once they have finished flowering.
  2. Trim back Ivy, Virginia creeper and other climbers that are starting to get too big before birds start nesting.
  3. If possible, Protect early flowering fruit trees such as Apricots from frost with fleece.
  4. Citrus trees can be top dressed with compost or re-potted if required.
  5. Start chitting seed potatoes
Stray Gardener: Putting dahlias to bed

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona shares her advice successfully overwintering dahlias. 

Dahlias are one of my favourite flowers of all time. Back in 1989 in my YTS year (Youth Training Scheme to anyone under 40!), I was introduced to them for the first time. I just fell in love with their bright, blousy colours, shapes and textures – and I have not lost my love for them since then. I started my YTS in September when they were in full flower so alongside learning how to dead head them, I was soon introduced to the skill of overwintering the tender tubers, protecting the plants so they are not killed off by our cold, wet winters.

There are a couple of ways you can overwinter dahlia tubers successfully. Traditionally you would wait until the first frosts had blacked the stems, making the plant go dormant. However, as autumns have become warmer over the years, a job that would once have been carried out in October sometimes now creeps into November. As the flowers have all but stopped being produced, I must confess to getting a bit impatient and cutting down the stems before then and storing them away, which doesn’t seem to do any harm to the tubers.

Dahlia roots and in buckets

The first way of overwintering dahlias involves digging the whole tuber up, removing as much soil as possible, along with any tubers that may have been damaged or are starting to rot off.  Let the tubers dry out upside down for a few days, before setting them in boxes or large pots covered in dry compost. Make sure they are stored in a dry, frost free place, and check them every now and again for any signs of rotting off.

I have found that when you dig the tubers up, and you find that they are not as large as they should be, sometimes they will not store well. Potting them with damp (not wet) compost, and keeping them moist, and in a cool, frost-free place over the winter will actually help them to survive better.

Dahlia beds

The second way to overwinter tubers works well if you have planted the tubers in a sheltered, sunny position in fairly well-drained soil. They can be cut down to the ground and then mulched with straw, compost or wood chip. The mulch can then be raked away when the shoots start to grow again in the next year. For extra protection, pin fleece and a waterproof cover over the top to help avoid excessive wetness in the winter. This works especially well with strong growing varieties and can be grown in the ground like this for several years very successfully.

With both of these techniques, a word of warning! Watch out for slugs and snails early in spring as the tubers come back into leaf, especially under the fleece and mulch. Given the right conditions, they can have a wonderful time munching on the new leaves and ruin a clump in a few days. The best thing to do is to check regularly and to ensure there are no hiding places for the slugs nearby. Once the new leaves have got established then generally they will go elsewhere and allow the dahlias to grow away quite happily, ready to produce their wonderful, colourful display again.

5 top tips for October

Stray Gardener: Dividing herbaceous perennial plants

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona explains how to divide your plants and why it’s beneficial. 

As we start to ease towards the autumn, the cooler and wetter weather gives us an opportunity to think about dividing some of our herbaceous perennial plants. This is the time of year I start eyeing up the plants around the garden to decide which ones could do with a little TLC. For most perennials, it’s a way to not only rejuvenate plants but it also gives us a chance to reduce clumps where plants are starting to out grow their space and also a way to increase the number of plants you have at a fraction of what they would cost if you bought them in.

Primula is best divided directly after flowering. Persicaria is very easy to divide.

There are a multitude of different plants that can be divided in the autumn, although it is a good idea to check before you start as some plants such as agapanthus and several of the grasses are best left until the spring as they divide more successfully then. Some spring flowering plants such as irises and primulas are best divided in June and July as soon as their flowers have finished, as this is when they tend to produce their new roots. Plants such as persicaria, anemone, aster, phlox, geranium, salvia and alchemilla (lady’s mantle), will all divide very successfully in the autumn. The secret is to make sure they are watered well once divided and are kept damp until they start to establish.

Dividing Persicaria – use garden or hand forks back to back to help divide them.

The technique of dividing is easy. Simply lift the plant out of the ground gently with a garden fork, and shake off any excess soil to be able to see the roots clearly. Some plants will divide themselves rather conveniently as you lift them and then it is just a case of teasing them apart with your hands. Some plants have a much denser root ball, which may need two forks which can be placed back to back in a convenient gap and gently levered apart to divide. This can be done several times depending on the size of the clump.

Hosta is best divided when the leaves have died back and you can see the growing pints more easily.

Occasionally some plants may need an axe or a spade to cut them apart. Quite a few of the grasses and bamboos tend to need this treatment to divide them more easily. It is best to aim to get between three to five growing points at least for each division, to ensure the plant will establish well in the ground.

Once you have finished dividing your clump it is important to get them planted as soon as possible. If it is a dry, sunny day, it’s worth having some sacking or a tarpaulin to cover them up with to keep them as moist as possible until they are replanted. They should be planted at the same depth as before adding garden compost, leaf mould or other soil conditioner to the planting hole. Don’t forget to water them in well when finished!

Heuchera should be divided regularly to keep them in good health.

If you are not quite ready to put them in their final position, it is worth potting and storing them in a sheltered position – making sure to water them regularly until you need them. It also gives you an opportunity to have spare plants ready and waiting for other areas of the garden, or to share with friends.

Fiona’s 5 top tips for September:

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Stray Gardener: summer pruning… it’s a snip!

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona explains what to prune this summer. 

So, why do we need to do a bit of snipping in the summer? It has loads of good reasons including restricting the size of your plants to ensure they don’t take over, and promoting future flowers and fruits in the year to come. If you think that pruning is a mainly winter or spring job, think again!!

If you want to ensure a good crop of fruit in the next year, trees such as apples, crab apples, medlars (sometimes known as monkey’s bottom and other rude names!) and mulberries all produce a crop on short flowering spurs along the bottom half of branches. By cutting back the vigorous growth made in spring, you will encourage more productive growth to develop, this is especially important with trained fruit trees as these could also outgrow their supports if left unchecked.

The cherry and plum family (Prunus), are particularly prone to a disease called silver leaf. By pruning cherries in summer you can avoid infection as the fungal spores are more prevalent between September and May. Choose a dry sunny day to do this as it reduces the risk of infection even further.

Pruning encourages new growth. Cane fruits such as summer raspberries, blackberries and loganberries produce new canes each year, which will go on to fruit the following summer.  Once they have finished fruiting, the old canes should be pruned out to make space for the new stems.

A wisteria flower needing pruning

Climbing plants including honeysuckle, jasmine, star jasmine and wisteria can become overgrown and tangled by the end of the summer. Pruning the long soft growth back to three or four buds helps to promote flowering buds ready for the next spring. It is also a good time to look at any new shoots that could be trained in to take over older shoots that have started to become bare.

Pruning keeps shrubs in shape and prevents them becoming overgrown with the flowers produced high up in the plant and not always as floriferous as they could be after pruning. Cutting out the flowering stems once they have finished helps to produce new shoots lower down that will go on to flower the next year. Anything that flowers from early winter to late spring can be pruned like this, plants such as deutzia, forsythia, kerria, philadelphus and weigela.

Deutzia flowers should be pruned out in summer

Topiary and hedges can be pruned later on in the summer, so cut back the current season’s growth to maintain shape and size. Shrubs such as beech, hornbeam, box, leylandii, thuja, privet and laurel can all be pruned at this time. It is important to check the hedge or topiary first to ensure there are no active bird nests, especially early on in the summer. Some species may need more than one cut in the growing season, depending on how neat you want these plants to be. Just be careful to watch the weather when you cut: try and avoid hot, dry, sunny days as this can cause your trimmed topiary to get scorched. Conversely, damp, wet days can encourage fungal spores which could infect your plant, so try to stick to a dry, cloudy day if you can.

Box topiary scorched from being cut in hot weather

Have a look at the plants in your garden, are there any mentioned about that you think fall in to the summer pruning category? If so, give it a go!

Fiona’s Five Top Tips for August

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Stray Gardener: Flavourful edible flowers

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight. Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. This month, Fiona’s been growing (and eating!) edible flowers – from nasturtiums and rosemary to sunflowers and dahlias. She also shares her top tips for what we should be doing in our gardens this June. 

 

The first flower I remember eating, was a nasturtium. I was around 9 or 10 years old and it was in my primary school garden. It was quite a good one to start with, as the strong peppery taste really packed a punch and left a massive impression on me, which was probably one of the reasons I have such an obsession with all things garden, flower and edible!

The use of flowers for culinary reasons goes back a long way. Even the Romans used flowers such as violets and roses in their cooking and you may find that you already have quite a lot of edible flowers in your garden already. If you grow herbs, then rosemary, dill, lavender, thyme, borage and basil are just a few that provide gorgeous flowers that you can use either as garnish or to add to the flavour of the dish. Chive flowers are particularly good for separating the petal segments and sprinkling over egg dishes or potato salad to give a hint of colour and a subtle chive taste.

Sweet William and Violas

Fruit trees also produce edible flowers. Apple blossom flowers can make fantastic jelly and if you have a huge amount of blossom it’s a great way to start thinning out your apples before they have been pollinated (although a little bit fiddly!). Vegetable wise, courgette flowers are very popular for savoury dishes, with the large flowers ideal to use for stuffing or as tempura. If your rocket or radish plants start to go to seed, hold off on pulling them out, as the flowers are equally tasty and a beautiful gentle peppery addition to salads or meat dishes.

If you grow bedding plants, these can be used too. Cornflowers, dahlias, sunflowers, sweet William and marigolds are all perfectly edible and taste even better if the petals are separated from the green part of the flower, which can be a little bitter to taste. Viola, (wild or garden grown) makes a fantastic ice cream or sorbet (you do need to pick quite a lot of flowers for this). Most petals can also be crystallised in sugar making a gorgeous tasty addition to the top of cakes and puddings. Pelargonium ‘Attar of Roses’ is especially good for this.

Pot Marigolds

When selecting the flowers you are going to use, avoid old, faded or dusty flowers and from areas that are well used by dog walkers. Watch out for insects, especially when picking early in the morning as they can use flowers as a hiding place over night. Either brushing over the flowers before picking or giving them a little shake once picked generally helps them to move on. It is a good idea to give them a gentle wash once picked. I generally put them in a sieve and hold them under the cold tap, giving the sieve a gentle shake now and again to move them around. I then rest them on clean kitchen towel to soak up the excess moisture before putting them in a sealed container in the fridge until I need them.

Remember to make sure you know exactly what the flower is you are eating, as some can be poisonous or cause irritation. If you are not sure, don’t eat it until you can get it properly identified.

The Stray Gardener’s Top Tips for June

  1. If you have bulbs naturalised in your lawns, these can now be cut down and tidied up.
  2. Get the hoe out regularly to keep weeds under control in your beds and borders. A dry, sunny day is best for this.
  3. If the weather starts to get dry, remember to check and water any trees and shrubs you planted earlier in the year to ensure they establish well.
  4. If you are growing carrots, now is the time to protect them from carrot root fly with fine mesh or fleece.
  5. If you haven’t already done so, it’s time to get your bedding plants, containers and hanging baskets outside and in position.

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Stray Gardener: Cool Cucurbits

The Stray Gardener is written by Rudding Park’s Kitchen Gardener, Fiona Slight.

Fiona has worked in horticulture for more than 30 years in the UK and abroad, and specialises in growing fruit and vegetables for fine dining. 

 

If you have the room, courgettes, pumpkins and squashes are well worth growing, producing tasty fruit with a variety of uses in the kitchen. May is the perfect time to get these plants growing.

Why not grow pumpkins for lanterns at Halloween? Any pumpkin variety will do, with ‘Jack O’ Lantern’ being a good option if you want the authentic orange skin. Squashes are a much better option for cooking as they have a very sweet, full flavour. ‘Crown Prince’, ‘Honey Boat’ and ‘Harrier’ are all varieties that I have tried with great success, even if I do say so myself!

Squash plants can be grown up frames

Pumpkins and squash do need a bit of room to grow, but are fantastic for covering areas of soil to keep down weeds, so if you have an area of ground you struggle to keep under control, this may be the option. However, for smaller areas they are great for growing up trellis or supports, especially a variety called ‘Uchiki Kuri’, a very decorative squash that also tastes fantastic.

Courgettes don’t tend to trail, so can be a good option for a smaller garden or for a container on the patio, producing large amounts of fruit from one plant. Cultivars such as ‘Midnight’, ‘Defender’ and the yellow ‘Gold Rush’ are a good option for containers and the open ground.

Cold frames are useful to harden off plants ready for planting out

Seeds are best sown inside in early May on their sides and singly in pots or large module trays, and planted out in late May/early June. Any earlier and they could be damaged by late frosts and bad weather. It’s advisable to harden them off gradually before planting out. A cold frame or other container that can be covered over at night will do. As long as they are all planted in good, moisture retentive compost or well-rotted manure, and are kept well-watered and fed, you can’t go too far wrong.

It’s a good idea to protect with cloches when first planted to guard against frost and cool weather. They also need to be protected against slugs when first planted.

Recycled factory lampshade used as a cloche for protecting the planted squash

Five more tips and tricks for your garden in May:

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