Stray Jewels with Susan Rumfitt: Jewellery fit for royals

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. In this month’s column, she delves into the history of emerald jewellery sold at Tennants Auctioneers.

 

Looking through the current auction catalogues online, I was excited to see that Tennants Auctioneers have their Fine Jewellery Sale on November 14. A beautiful pendant of diamonds, amethysts and red enamel associated with the Delhi Durbar of 1911 and some emerald pieces caught my eye.

The Auction world is fascinating, and sales are always full of beautiful jewels that brighten up these dark Autumn nights.

The Splendour of India

The pendant was of particular interest, as I was writing and talking about The Maharani’s and their fabulous jewellery collections at The Gallery last month. The Delhi Durbar or ‘Court of Delhi’, was held in 1877, 1903 and 1911, each time to celebrate the succession of an Emperor or Empress of India.

The Delhi Durbar Pendant

The 1911 Durbar was to mark the succession of George V as Emperor of India. King George and Mary of Teck were at the ceremony and this was the first time a monarch actually attended. Such festivities were a perfect opportunity to acquire and wear jewels as well as receive jewellery to mark the occasion. The pendant in Tennants sale was presented to Frances Irene Campbell whose husband Archibald Campbell was Private Secretary to the Governor of Madras Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael at the time of the Durbar.

The Delhi Durbar Pendant is quite a treat; with only two others having come up for sale in recent years, it is well worth a view.


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Saleroom Gems

Two other pieces that appealed to me in the Tennants jewellery sale are a Victorian emerald and diamond brooch, which has a certificate with it stating that the origin of the emerald is probably Colombia. The stone is a beautiful colour and is set off fabulously by the pearl and diamond mount. I also love a Georgian ring set with a gorgeous emerald within a charming setting. The Georgian period was one of charm and elegance and the ring oozes both.

Victorian Emerald and Diamond Brooch

What is it about emeralds that people find appealing?

Well to start with, their vibrant bottle green through to pale green colour variations provide a variety of choice and prices to meet tastes and budgets.

The countries of origin provide a sense of magic and mysticism. Cleopatra owned extensive mines in Egypt. The Ural Mountains in Russia provided a healthy supply in the 19th century and Colombia has produced some of the finest examples and is still a name desired on a Gemstone Certificate today.

In the mid-20th century, there was a rise in popularity for the delightful bottle green Columbian emeralds – made popular by glamorous and topical women such as the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Taylor.

By the 1970’s suppliers of these beautiful stones just couldn’t meet the demand and therefore emeralds of very poor quality would be heavily treated and enhanced to hide flaws and improve colour and be sold as ‘Colombian Emeralds’ when they were clearly not. This naturally effected the value of emeralds and the confidence in the market fell. Today confidence is good, and emeralds are definitely back in favour and deserve serious consideration.

Throughout history gemstones have been associated with spiritual or medical healing, prosperity and celebrations. Emeralds are associated with hope and love – both of which we all need in abundance right now.

Fred Trueman’s Rolls-Royce sells for £31,000

A 1967 Rolls-Royce Mulliner Park Ward, which was bought new by Yorkshire and England cricketer Fred Trueman, has sold at auction for £31,000.

The vehicle was one of 273 lots that went under the hammer at Tennants Auctioneers’ site in Leyburn on Saturday.

Trueman, who died in 2006, was the first bowler to take 300 Test match wickets.

Some still consider him to be England’s greatest ever bowler. Former Prime Minister Harold Wilson once described him as the ‘greatest living Yorkshireman’.

Trueman sold the vehicle, which was estimated to fetch between £25,000 and £35,000, in 1992.


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Top lot at the motor car, motorcycle and automobilia sale was a 1961 Jaguar MKII Saloon Concours Restoration, which beat its £45,000 to £50,000 estimate to sell for £71,000.

A 1956 Jaguar XK140 sold for £50,000 and a 1965 Mercedes Pagoda 230 SL Coupe, which had generated much interest pre-sale, more than doubled its estimate to sell for £48,000.

The sale resulted in a total hammer price of £426,715.

Tennants, which is a fourth generation family business, is one of the UK’s largest antiques and fine art auctioneers. It holds about 80 auctions a year at its 80,000 square foot site in Leyburn.

‘A Century of Fashion’ goes under the Hammer

Yorkshire based auctioneers Tennants are preparing to auction ‘a century of fashion.’

Tennants Auctioneers’ costume, accessories and textiles sale will offer a selection of outfits from the Victorian Era to the present day.

Classics by Chanel, Gucci and Chloe will all be going under the hammer as well as many vintage costume pieces.

The auction will take place at Tennant’s flagship site in Leyburn, North Yorkshire on Saturday 22, August.

Tennant's

Tennant’s ‘ A Century of Fashion.’

Sarah White, Costume and Textiles specialist at Tennant’s told the Stray Ferret that there will be over 200 lots on offer:

 ‘It’s a different sale to usual this time… it’s got more bulk to it in the costume, but we also have a fantastic selection of modern Chanel, leather goods, 20’s daywear and 30s and 40’s costume which people like and want to buy.’


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So what sort of price can you expect to pay for these pieces?

‘The Chanel items tend to go for between 300 and 500 which is a fraction of what you would pay in the shops, the other items anywhere from £200 upwards, but there’s always bargains to be had so it’s best to come and have a look.’

Have you changed the way you run the auctions due to COVID restrictions?

‘We have had to change the way we work, so the way we set out the room for viewing and the saleroom for bidding, but with regards to selling the items the prices have been strong and the market is very strong. This is our second costume sale since lockdown, but with the online bidding, it is a really good platform for buying, as people can still see photos and we provide condition reports.’

People will be able to go and view with items at Tennant’s on Thursday and Friday between 10-4 and on Saturday before the auction from 7.30 am, the sale starts at 10.30 am.

Alongside live bidding in person, there are also digital alternatives for browsing and bidding. A fully illustrated catalogue is available where bidders will also be able to bid live online or leave commission bids.