Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in the 2022 series of BBC TV’s Masterchef competition.

Every Saturday Yemi writes on the Stray Ferret about her love of the area’s food and shares cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.

I recently had the pleasure of experiencing the unique dining concept at Fifty Two, led by head chef Adam Dagg. 

This restaurant embraces a garden-to-table philosophy, letting Mother Nature dictate the menu. With no set menu, each visit offers a new culinary adventure, making every meal an exciting surprise.

A nature-inspired experience

My dining experience at Fifty Two started with drinks and an apple blini canapé with smoked roe and radish in the kitchen garden, providing a perfect opportunity for nature lovers and photographers to explore and capture the beautiful surroundings.

This setting also fosters camaraderie among guests, as you meet fellow diners and share the anticipation of what might appear on your plates. There is something exciting about the lack of predictability of the menu.

My first drink, a lemon verbena lemonade, was refreshing and paired wonderfully with the roscoff onion sable, featuring Yoredale cheese custard, caramelised onion, and chive flowers. This sophisticated take on a cheese and onion crisp awakened my taste buds beautifully.

Innovative courses

The next course was a creative twist on chips and dips: artichoke crisps and purée, confit artichoke, and a sour cream espuma dusted with dill powder. Each bite offered a different experience as it depended on what you managed to scoop up making it a delightful conversation starter.

Following this, I enjoyed an apple, fennel, and dill drink, which was visually stunning and perfectly balanced in sweetness. A tomato consommé then cleansed the palate with its light, subtle and fragrant flavours.

Bread and butter perfection

Another highlight was the 'brioche-like' fermented potato bread, served with garden herbs salsa verde, cultured butter, and a sunflower dip that was a ‘nutty nod’ to hummus. The bread was golden, light and airy; the butter was so light it could have been a skin cream.

On the topic of bread, the treacle soda bread with terrine, topped with mustard seed jelly and pickles also stood out to me. The treacle added a delightful sweetness, and the bread’s maltiness and toasted oats were unforgettable. 

If Rudding Park were to open a bakery today selling the treacle soda bread, there would be mile long queues and I would be first in line.

Savoury delights

A confit potato dish with smoked eel and a beautiful parsley sauce evoked classic salt and vinegar flavours, while the fish course of wild turbot with magnolia came with a broth bursting with umami, and fragrant notes of kafir lime and ginger. 

It was complex, rich, sharp, tangy with the tiniest amount of heat peaking through at the end. The barbecued greens perfectly complemented the broth.

A mint, sorrel, and burnt cucumber drink, reminiscent of a green goddess salad, was followed by a blackberry-inspired drink, both of which perfectly complemented the dishes.

The transitional course and the main event

The final savoury course featured salt-aged lamb saddle, lamb breast, and crispy sweetbread, each element bursting with flavour. The lamb kebab glazed with mint vinegar and the lamb shoulder with pearl barley and baby turnips were particularly memorable.

The transitional cheese course - intriguingly devoid of cheese - celebrated beetroot with goat’s milk ice cream—a surprising and delightful pairing. The chamomile, oolong, and rhubarb drink was an ideal way to start winding down.

Desserts to remember

The brown butter tart was my favourite dessert, with its creamy yet light filling and perfectly spiced sugar dusting, complemented by tangy forced rhubarb. Chef Adam's ten years of experience as a pastry chef shone through in this dish.

The final dessert of Gianduja chocolate, woodruff ice cream and Tonka chantilly and pine caramel balanced bitterness, creaminess, and richness with a satisfying crunch. The meal concluded with warm madeleines dusted with lemon verbena sugar, paired with coffee or tea.

Yemi's verdict

The Fifty Two experience is as engaging as it is delicious. The option to tour the garden, watch the team at work, and have chefs introduce each dish adds a personal touch. The availability of aprons for guests who wish to join in or ask questions enhances the immersive nature of the experience.

I love how the team has thought about those opting out of wine pairing ensuring they don’t miss out on drinks that perfectly complement each course.

It's an extraordinary dining journey that beautifully combines innovative cuisine with a deep connection to nature and delights all the senses. The set of cards on each table allows diners to make new friends, learn about each other and make memories together. 

Bookings are now open for ten-course servings with five drink pairings at £115/£50 per person on Fridays and Saturdays. A more budget-friendly option of six courses with three drink pairings at £85/£35 is available on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays. There is one sitting per night at 7pm, starting with a welcome drink on arrival.