Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, she sampled the aged beef at West Park, but was disappointed.
I have long since admired the position of West Park, overlooking the Stray but never eaten there, so this was a treat to cheer up a good friend.
On a sunny day this is a busy, vibrant area with pavement tables reminiscent of Parisienne café culture. With much investment, what was a downtrodden pub has now produced a sophisticated hotel, with a good vibe in-keeping with the local area.
The planning and operation of this establishment is exemplary considering the difficulties the industry has with the lack of staff. The Front of House service was faultless as we sat outside on a pavement table, albeit rather noisy.
This was lunchtime and one would assume that coffees and pastries had been enjoyed prior to lunch.
The menu
Light bites, sandwiches and salads start from £9.00 for a fish butty consisting of a Black Sheep beer battered haddock, tartare sauce in a white or brown bloomer… not for the faint hearted! Or you could have an Indian spiced pulled chicken wrap with baby gem, mango chutney, cucumber and mint yoghurt, also for £9.00.
All sandwiches come with a dressed salad and chunky or skinny fries, or as an alternative there is a feta salad with roasted peppers and croutons, also for £9.00.
The light bites include haddock and leek gratin for £10.00, benedict ham, smoked salmon or spinach also £10.00, and other similar dishes.
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Grandly displayed in front of a very slick floral entrance is a more sophisticated menu with a choice of seven starters, including prawns, scallops, and confit of duck varying from £8.00 to £10.00 each.
As a main, there are variations of aged British beef ranging from £24 to £70. The £70 option is sirloin on the bone for two to share. Also available for a main course is a wagu burger, fish & chips, cod fillet, chicken & ham pie, sticky belly pork or a plum tomato & burrata tart, all priced between £15.00 and £20.00.
It was surprising to me that on this extensive menu, all the vegetarian dishes contained cheese.
Frances was disappointed with the aged beef
The verdict
We ordered a Mount St John courgette and Yorkshire fettle tart with ratatouille and parsley crisps. Sadly, the pastry on this dish was the best thing about it. All there seemed to be on the base was some tomato puree. The courgette was shrivelled and in desperate need of lubrication. Ratatouille contains courgette but it didn’t make another appearance, which was surprising as usually anything from Mount St John’s garden is of the highest quality.
If one boasts the quality of the ingredient on the menu, especially when it comes to rare breed aged beef, it needs to be amazing. However, the beef took 50 minutes to arrive after ordering, and we had declined a choice of sauces on the pretext that it would be well charred and full of its own natural juices. Sadly this was not to be.
Menus need to be written taking into consideration ingredient and staffing availability. In an establishment of this quality in these changing times, a humble plate of fresh, well executed food is much preferable to an overly ambitious menu that needs a lot of advanced preparation.
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise Food at Daleside Nurseries, alongside fellow Michelin-starred chef Roger Olive and front of house manager John Tullett.
Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, she was impressed with Harrogate’s DOMO Japanese Cuisine.
A good friend of mine whose culinary expertise I have great respect for told me I should visit Domo Japanese Cuisine on Montpellier Walk here in Harrogate. He had a fabulous takeaway as a birthday treat at home, so intrigued, I made my way to Domo. Domo is on the site of what was Lord’s Restaurant, which then became Van Zellers Restaurant. Tom having a terrific reputation as a chef and was lorded by the eminent food critic Marina O’Loughlin. Much has changed since then, as one would expect, and the style is now dark, atmospheric and simple. It makes a nice change from so many overgilded establishments.
This is an authentic Japanese restaurant and before the pandemic Japanese style of food was very in vogue amongst the great chefs of our country. As all chefs tend to do to cement their own style and identity, they play with styles and tastes. With the very warm weather that we have had recently, there were two little tables and chairs outside, one of which my young man and I took watching the world go by. Interestingly enough we watched Fisk, the fish restaurant opposite, fill quickly and easily.
It was a warm summer lunchtime as we studied the menu and on offer was a Bento Box. The choices of chicken, salmon, spicy BBQ beef or sushi, all served with a miso soup came in the form of a Bento Box.
The spicy beef bento box
There was of course an extensive menu with the style of dishes you would expect.
My young man chose the spicy beef bento box at £9.50 and myself the spicy tuna with sesame and ponzu with a bowl of rice at £14.00. The charming lady taking my order explained to me that the tuna would be rare – and I would have been disappointed had it not been so! The arrival of this dish was beautifully presented and the flavours were sensational. It reminded me of a dish that I experienced in a Michelin Starred restaurant that was beautifully crafted – but it didn’t have the wow factor I was experienced Domo. This was a lovely dish and if this is an indication of all the other dishes on offer, Harrogate is a very lucky place!
Frances’ spicy tuna with sesame and ponzu, with a bowl of rice
While on the subject of how food should be cooked, often the opinion of the chef seems to differ from the opinion of the guest. As we always ask guests how they would like their red meat cooked, perhaps we should do the same with fish?
My young man’s Bento Box came with the miso in a lovely little bowl and was once again so refreshing and stimulating to the palate. The actual box contained tofu, rice, sushi, BBQ beef and a little salad. At £9.50 for the complete meal, it was excellent value.
We were left feeling that we had a healthy and satisfying lunch and look forward to revisiting.
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise Food at Daleside Nurseries, alongside fellow Michelin-starred chef Roger Olive and front of house manager John Tullett.
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Stray Foodie Review: General Tarleton
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.
Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This week, Frances reviews the newly refurbished General Tarleton in Ferrensby.
Visiting the GT on a hot sunny day produced memories of Provence, on arrival to a quiet car park with hayfields and a gentle breeze. The GT looked well curated. Wafts of lavender and a glass of chilled Rose came to mind. This was everything it was supposed to replicate when Denis Watkins transformed it from an ordinary pub in the mid 90’s.
After much love and dedication given by John and Claire Topham, the GT has always had a great reputation for its food and hospitality. It’s now in the hands of a new father and daughter team, and no expense has been spared on the venue.
As I walked through the door I felt a spacious sense of calm and creativity, everything was aimed at perfection.
Sitting outside on the Terrace on very comfortable rattan furniture, I waited for my young man. Smart waiting staff offered me the Bar and Terrace menu which consisted of a choice of Small Plates, Brunch Plates, Large Plates and Sides.
Mushroom and truffle arancini (top) and smoked mackerel pate croustini (bottom)
All small plates are £5.00, brunch plates £12.00 and large plates £14.00 – £17.00. What an extensive menu. An example of the small plates on offer were mushroom and truffle aranchini with spring onion dip, smoked mackerel pate croustini, herb aioli and basil, confit duck leg Kievs, brown butter hollandaise.
An example of the Brunch Plates were avocado on griddled rosemary toast, poached eggs, pumpkin seed dressing, spinach, cherry tomatoes and garden leaf, eggs benedict with warm crumpets, poached eggs, sliced ham, curried hollandaise sauce and chives.
The Large Plates included market fish of the day served with crushed ratte potatoes, herbs and lemon, seasonal greens and tartare sauce hollandaise or a summer salad of vegetables, feta, nasturtium pesto, pine nuts and mint. Oh what choice! All things to all men.
The Bar and Terrace puddings consisted of brownies, sticky toffee pudding, posset, cheesecake and cheeses. All puddings are between £8.00 and £10.00. What more could you want?!
If you have a penchant for hollandaise sauce and a love of decadent food, this is your place!
The market fish of the day: sea bream
The market fish of the day turned out to be sea bream, a deliciously oily fish usually served with fresh crispy greens. This was slightly different but cooked with care and knowledge. The crushed ratte potato looked like a roast potato, and the seasonal greens as one would have expected to be fresh and light was piece of vintage blanched Broccoli. Once again the hollandaise sauce made its popular appearance here.
The summer salad of vegetables turned out to be red chicory and mature heritage tomatoes with cress. It was beautifully presented, but somewhat lacking was the nasturtium flavour and other vegetables.
Summer vegetable salad
This menu on a busy day is ambitous but I am sure exceedingly popular.
I was told that the beer was superb, Landlords Special, by my young man and there was a comprehensive and good wine list.
Ralph’s Tasting Menu is on offer for 7 Courses at £55.00 which seems to be exceedingly good value. It includes smoked salmon, chicken liver mousse, coronation crab, beef, brioche, strawberries and chocolate. Once again an exciting and complex menu with a lot of work.
The Verdict: 3 stars
Given the shortage of chefs in hospitality at the moment, to produce such a choice of food will require a brigade of many hard working chefs to keep freshness and consistency at the level expected of the atmospheric General Tarleton.
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Stray Foodie: Restaurant EightyEight, Grantley Hall review
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. This week, Frances reviews Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall.
The Japanese Garden at Grantley Hall is an amazing idyllic garden that has been created in this beautiful manicured establishment that sits in a dell of ancient trees and waterways.
Such creativity has been matched by the new Restaurant EightyEight Head Chef Shane Zhao… a lady Chef – hurrah!
Japanese Garden dessert
Being impetuous by nature, I have to tell you about the dessert FIRST. Shane has produce a sublime experience which is in keeping with the surroundings. Yuzu, Black Sesame and Raspberry are woven into a dish called the Japanese Garden. It was perfectly balanced in texture and on the palate, and a beauty to behold, instilling a lasting memory of a great experience.
First Impressions
On arrival at Grantley Hall my young man and I drove down the side of a waterway with an exquisite duck house, around the wild flower garden and into the car park for Restaurant EightyEight. Getting out of the car I thought I must have left the car radio on, which was funny as I didn’t have the radio on! The music came from the bushes in the car park, and it seemed to be somewhat at odds with the general tranquillity.
We walked down to the restaurant and were seated in a very atmospheric bar with great lighting, orchids on the walls and ceiling, and beautiful Oriental tables. Staff were proud, helpful and conscientious for our wellbeing.
Starter
Fighting shy of the usual large tasting menus (£65 per person for 8 courses), purely because of quantity, we were advised to have small plates to share to start with. These consisted of Korean Fried Cauliflower with a Chive Aioli; this is a sensational dish and the most humble one at £8 on the menu. One of the best treatments of Cauliflower I have ever eaten.
We also had Scallops with a pea puree, a bow to seasonality (£19.50) and Duck Liver with Blood Orange Marmalade (£18.50). These starters set the talented style of what was to come.
Main Course
Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps and Fennel
Our main courses again, we shared. Flame Grilled Whole Quail, Smoky Aubergine Puree, Spiced Sausage & Pickled Cucumber (£29) was delightful. The Smoky Aubergine Puree an absolute hit as far as I was concerned with the Pickled Cucumber balancing the edge of the Smoke.
We are in the season for Sea Trout and Asparagus now, so therefore I felt it was appropriate to see how these ingredients were executed, with the Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps & Fennel (£28). What a joy! It was the sort of dish that you would like to have ordered another one. The flavours of these two dishes were exceptional. It might have been nice to have been recommended some form of carbohydrate with these very elegant dishes, but hey, would I want to ruin such balanced flavours?
The Verdict – 4 stars
I can’t wait to return to the lovely terrace area overlooking the garden and to sample more of Chef’s Vegetarian and Vegan Menus if they are as great as the cauliflower..
The wines by the glass were slightly underwhelming. There was plenty of choice by the bottle, but who needs big wines with food like this?
I know bookings are in great demand. We felt very fortunate to be there and it is some time I have been wowed to this extent!
Well worth it and I am saving up for my next visit.
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Stray Foodie: The Wild Plum, Harrogate
Stray Foodie is a monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.
The Wild Plum, Hookstone Road, Harrogate, HG2 8BW
Frances’ Lunch: Crazy A-Bao You for £13.50 and a cup of coffee for £3.25
Looking up at the pink neon ‘Wild’ sign I thought to myself, am I in the Hardrock Café or is this a dream?
I was in fact in a restaurant located above a very popular ladies’ couture venue, The Snooty Frox, in Harrogate.
The Wild Plum Café is busy, modern, clean and bright and I’ve been told customers queue to enter such a hallowed space. It certainly is the place to be; it’s a vibrant and trendy space. A great contrast to the entrance, where I was met by the Lady of the House who was most charming. I was shown upstairs and found Girl Power at its best.
Head Chef, Bethany, daughter of the Snooty Frox owners, rules with her two female colleagues dressed in great ‘modern Chef’ gear.
The three chefs, including the head chef, Bethany (middle).
They were dishing out bags of style from an open kitchen with fabulous bottles of fermented fruit and vegetables. This immediately says, ‘serious kitchen’.
This is clever food; artistic, creative and hot (in every sense of the word). The Menu included the sort of food you can eat at any time of the day, assuming the seasoning is taken care of.
I was spoilt for choice but had the home-made Crazy A-Bao You with Carrot Kimchi, Sesame Soy Crispy Egg and Sriracha Mayo with the Crispy Cornflake Chicken. It arrived as Bao Buns – which were as pink as the Neon sign – in a bamboo steamer.
Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or café?
From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.
The Carrot Kimchi was on its base with Cornflake Chicken-style burgers and Crispy Eggs topped with a wonderful array of culinary flora. It had a syringe of Mayo at its side and some sweet jam. This was a very generous portion.
There were plenty of other choices and I was very tempted to have the Butternut Squash Fritter (GF) which was Mexican-style with smashed avocado, poached egg, rocket, sweet chilli jam, roasted garlic yoghurt and homemade salsa.
The indoor seating area of The Wild Plum. Above (and featured) image credit: Ben Bentley.
The Wild Plum Buddha Bowl sounded so exciting but with so much going on. Maybe – for a slightly reserved palate – a little confusing?
This food was exciting, tasty and young and I was told everything is made fresh on the premises. Looking around the Café, the other dishes were colourful and lovely.
Knowledge of flavour and ingredients comes with experience and perhaps not always so exciting but leaves a longer lasting impression.
These are exciting times in the culinary world, as it is all changing. It is young dedicated female chefs, like Bethany, who will shortly be leading the way in our industry, certainly in Harrogate.
To find out more about The Wild Plum click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.
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- Stray Foodie: Frances visits the Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge
- Stray Foodie: Frances visits the Bistro at How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
Stray Foodie: Grantham Arms, Boroughbridge
Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.
Grantham Arms, Milby, Boroughbridge YO51 9BW
Frances’ Meal: Starter: Garlic Prawns with Samphire £9.95 Main Course: Steak Pie £14.95 Glass of Picpoul: £4.30
The Grantham Arms is a grey painted building that stands on a roundabout as you enter Boroughbridge. I suspect it was once a charming coaching inn but now at the side of a very busy road – not the most salubrious positions. Its fake grass and fairy lights make a statement.
The welcome I received from the young man behind the bar, Sam, was exemplary. It was a busy bar with guests of all ages.
I was with a friend who is the head of a hospitality department at a university. A young lady called Jess showed us to our table and looked after our experience for the duration of the evening. There were brown leather chairs, square tables, candles and bric-a-brac throughout. I imagine in the evening it would be very atmospheric.
The front room of Grantham Arms.
Jess was warm, friendly, with an extensive knowledge of the menu, which catered for all tastes.
To start with we shared Garlic Prawns with Samphire. The Samphire would have welcomed a little less heat.
She advised us that the Pies were a speciality and the thing to have. So, I had the steak pie which was well-made with good pastry and generously presented. I am not sure if the blue cheese in the gravy worked with such good ingredients; it might suit someone with a more robust palate. The cooking of the vegetables was excellent which is a rare achievement.
Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or cafe?
From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.
The Chicken Supreme, which my friend ordered, was of grand proportions with a well-made sauce. I was assured it tasted good. However, I would have liked to have seen it looking more comfortable in the sauce with thinly sliced mushrooms, chopped chives and sliced to add a little elegance.
The choice of wines were very limited and they would have benefited from a wider selection of grape variety to balance with the dishes on offer.
The Dessert Menu looked tempting but unfortunately, we were too full. It looked interesting and was the sort of menu that meant no waste for the kitchen. Perhaps a seasonal weekly dessert might be a thought. A Syrup & Apple Sponge or similar nursery pudding for the winter the months might be a popular idea for their regulars.
The atmosphere was young and vibrant and made by the service staff. Such courtesy is always a pleasure to receive.
The outside seating area.
The kitchen, given suitable direction, has the makings of a successful brigade, although, I was disappointed to find the Head Chef was not on duty at the time of my visit, nor was any form of senior management.
If you are hungry the pricing is of very good value and you won’t be disappointed. I am sure it will increase in popularity as a neighbourhood restaurant. In these difficult times, it is a place to be valued.
To find out more about Grantham Arms click here. To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.
Read More:
- Stray Foodie: Frances visits the Bistro at How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
- Italian bar and restaurant closes in Harrogate
Stray Foodie: Vista View Bistro at How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins.
In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.
Vista View Bistro, How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
It was a dreak night and I was in one of the most beautiful parts of deepest Nidderdale; How Stean Gorge is a place of such outstanding natural beauty, especially on clear sunny days of which we rarely have. This was not the case on this occasion, as we bumped along a windy road to our destination. Ahead of us rose an amazing, stilted building that towered over dramatic turbulent water with lustrous jungle land and deep vegetation.
A vision of creative owners, Mr & Mrs Stanley Beer who have developed their Gorge with great dedication over many years to its current acclaim. What a beautiful place to live and continue to develop a business. Full of exciting opportunity in this new world of hospitality that we find ourselves in. Exciting outdoor pursuits with fresh, tasty, good food seems to be the order of the day.
The glass viewing area at How Stean Gorge.
My old man and I were there for an early dinner and we felt lucky, as How Stean – as it is known locally – is not often open in the evenings. Like a lot of people, it was the first time out for us for some time. As we entered, the feeling of cleanliness was exemplary and made us feel very safe.
Would you like Frances to review your restaurant or cafe?
From pop-up to fine dining, Frances would like to hear from you. If you’d like her to write a review on your food, send her an email to: foodie@thestrayferret.co.uk.
My old man’s face was a picture of sheer contentment as he devoured a very beautiful Prawn Cocktail. I examined a starter of vegetables and thought, here we have some style. Jowayne, a young and ambitious Chef has given his food a lot of love shown by a neat, clean hand and a good balance of flavour. Although I would have been happy to see or feel more colour and excitement with the menu. Having said that, to find such honest food in the depths of this fine country is a plus. Maybe I was being over-influenced and relaxed by the Spa-themed music during dinner which was ethereal and stark.
Two Vista View Bistro chefs pictured, including its head chef, Jowayne Marshall (left).
The time to visit is obviously during the day with all the lovely Autumnal hues. You will sit and gasp at the extraordinary views over a glass or savour the very good and satisfying local beef or feel spoilt by what’s on offer on the menu; something for all tastes, I am told. Let’s hope Chef puts his Fruit Mousse Spoon on the dessert menu – something I have come across before – and of course it was well worth the drive up the Dale.
Whenever you decide to visit, which is a must during these times, you will be rewarded by friendly Yorkshire hospitality that stimulates you and gives you the good feeling of being British. My little journey for dinner x2, three courses and a glass of wine each cost £85.20 excluding service. Don’t be afraid, there are more economic ways of enjoying this treasure.
To find out more about Vista View Bistro click here.
To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.