Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. This week, Frances reviews Restaurant EightyEight at Grantley Hall.
The Japanese Garden at Grantley Hall is an amazing idyllic garden that has been created in this beautiful manicured establishment that sits in a dell of ancient trees and waterways.
Such creativity has been matched by the new Restaurant EightyEight Head Chef Shane Zhao… a lady Chef – hurrah!
Japanese Garden dessert
Being impetuous by nature, I have to tell you about the dessert FIRST. Shane has produce a sublime experience which is in keeping with the surroundings. Yuzu, Black Sesame and Raspberry are woven into a dish called the Japanese Garden. It was perfectly balanced in texture and on the palate, and a beauty to behold, instilling a lasting memory of a great experience.
First Impressions
On arrival at Grantley Hall my young man and I drove down the side of a waterway with an exquisite duck house, around the wild flower garden and into the car park for Restaurant EightyEight. Getting out of the car I thought I must have left the car radio on, which was funny as I didn’t have the radio on! The music came from the bushes in the car park, and it seemed to be somewhat at odds with the general tranquillity.
We walked down to the restaurant and were seated in a very atmospheric bar with great lighting, orchids on the walls and ceiling, and beautiful Oriental tables. Staff were proud, helpful and conscientious for our wellbeing.
Starter
Fighting shy of the usual large tasting menus (£65 per person for 8 courses), purely because of quantity, we were advised to have small plates to share to start with. These consisted of Korean Fried Cauliflower with a Chive Aioli; this is a sensational dish and the most humble one at £8 on the menu. One of the best treatments of Cauliflower I have ever eaten.
We also had Scallops with a pea puree, a bow to seasonality (£19.50) and Duck Liver with Blood Orange Marmalade (£18.50). These starters set the talented style of what was to come.
Main Course
Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps and Fennel
Our main courses again, we shared. Flame Grilled Whole Quail, Smoky Aubergine Puree, Spiced Sausage & Pickled Cucumber (£29) was delightful. The Smoky Aubergine Puree an absolute hit as far as I was concerned with the Pickled Cucumber balancing the edge of the Smoke.
We are in the season for Sea Trout and Asparagus now, so therefore I felt it was appropriate to see how these ingredients were executed, with the Miso Glazed Sea Trout with Sesame Charred Asparagus, Shrimps & Fennel (£28). What a joy! It was the sort of dish that you would like to have ordered another one. The flavours of these two dishes were exceptional. It might have been nice to have been recommended some form of carbohydrate with these very elegant dishes, but hey, would I want to ruin such balanced flavours?
The Verdict – 4 stars
I can’t wait to return to the lovely terrace area overlooking the garden and to sample more of Chef’s Vegetarian and Vegan Menus if they are as great as the cauliflower..
The wines by the glass were slightly underwhelming. There was plenty of choice by the bottle, but who needs big wines with food like this?
I know bookings are in great demand. We felt very fortunate to be there and it is some time I have been wowed to this extent!
Well worth it and I am saving up for my next visit.
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