Yemi Adelekan is a food writer and blogger who was a semi-finalist in the 2022 series of BBC TV’s Masterchef competition.

Every Saturday Yemi writes on the Stray Ferret about her love of the area’s food and shares cooking tips – please get in touch with her if you want her to review a restaurant, visit your farm, taste the produce you sell or even share a recipe.

In the world of gastronomy, French cuisine stands as a beacon of excellence, celebrated for its rich flavours, meticulous techniques, and timeless elegance.

As a Nigerian British who lived in the West Indies and whose food is influenced by many cultures including African and the Middle East, I must confess that some of my most consulted books are my French cookbooks. That’s because I love to understand foundational cooking techniques and I adore sauces as they can make or break a dish.

Key defining factors of French cuisine include:

• Quality ingredients: French cooking begins with the finest, freshest ingredients sourced locally and seasonally. From vibrant produce to succulent meats and delicate cheeses, the quality of ingredients is paramount.
• Technique and tradition: French chefs are renowned for their mastery of culinary techniques, passed down through generations. Whether it’s the art of sauce-making, precision knife skills, or the delicate balance of flavours, French cuisine is steeped in tradition and craftsmanship.
• Attention to detail: Every aspect of French cooking, from preparation to presentation, is executed with meticulous attention to detail. From the perfectly chopped herbs to the intricately plated dishes, each element contributes to the overall harmony of flavours and textures.
• Regional diversity: France boasts a rich tapestry of culinary traditions, with each region offering its own distinct specialties and flavours. From the seafood-rich cuisine of Brittany to the hearty stews of the French Alps, exploring French cooking is like embarking on a delicious journey across the country.
• Celebration of seasonality: French cuisine is deeply rooted in the rhythm of the seasons, with dishes showcasing the best of each time of year. From vibrant spring salads to comforting winter braises, French chefs know how to highlight seasonal ingredients.

Kendell’s Bistro, Leeds

Recently I was craving the decadence of French food and wanted to wrap up what had been a ‘foodie’ month to celebrate my birthday, so I went to Kendell’s Bistro in Leeds after recommendation from work colleagues.

From the humorous words on the board about tips to the seafood menu on the board, the atmosphere was warm and welcoming.

To start

The menu had the usual suspects, but my choices were inspired by the accompanying sauces. I ordered the Oeuf Aux Meurettes, a starter of poached eggs, red wine sauce, bacon, roast shallots, mushroom, garlic and sourdough croute.

Oeuf Aux Meurettes

I enjoyed the rich and dark sauce red wine sauce, saltiness from the crispy bacon and the sourdough was the perfect vessel to carry the poached eggs and soak up the delicious red wine sauce.

On arrival it almost looked like the size of a main dish but that’s because the sourdough toast underneath the eggs made it look substantial.

The second starter of mussels in a light white wine sauce with garlic and a touch of cream was delicate and perfectly seasoned. A great way to start the meal and prepare us for the indulgence that was to come.

The main course

My main was Pave D’Agneau, roast rump of lamb, aubergine feta mint, charlotte, rosemary jus and dauphinois potatoes. The sauce was glossy with a touch of sweetness, purée was elegant, and the roasted garlic was a nice touch.

Potato dauphinois was indulgent and decadent with the rich cream and it was perfectly seasoned. I could eat this all day. Aubergine with feta was a nice addition with richness of the feta but I needed a touch more salt.

Pave D’Agneau

The other main was the Loup de Mer; boneless and skinless sea bass with sliced lemon and capers cooked on a bed of fennel and tarragon en papillote. Cooking the fish in paper created a light and delicious broth.

Dessert

Ordering dessert was simply because I was too curious to give it a pass. The Ile Flotante Aux Rhubarb aka. vanilla pod custard, poached meringue, toasted almonds and rhubarb was pretty and delicious.

The second dessert of chocolate mousse with raspberry had a mousse that was thick, bitter and not overly sweet. Raspberry coulis was sharp and cut through the richness of the mousse. The brandy basket provided a base for the mousse and the crunchiness that was needed.

Chocolate mousse with raspberry

Price: Starter from £7.90 to £10.90, Mains from £19 to £32, Sides from £4.20 to £4.70 and Desserts £9 and £11.50 for a selection of French cheeses.

Verdict: The meal was well cooked, beautifully plated, delicious and indulgent from start to finish a reminder of why classic french cooking remains well regarded.

Reaching a foodie milestone

This is my 50th post for The Stray Ferret, so I want to thank all readers for your support. Please send me recommendations of places, producers and produces to check out in Yorkshire.

Read more:

• Yemi’s Food Stories: Brunch at The Hideaway in Boroughbridge
• Yemi’s Food Stories: A taste of Paradise in Killinghall
• Yemi’s Food Stories: embracing spring by celebrating seasonal produce
• Yemi’s Food Stories: Rafi’s Spicebox Harrogate

Dominic Fazzone from Harrogate was refused entry to Europe to care for his 98-year-old mother who is recovering from covid.

Mr Fazzone drove to Folkstone last Wednesday to catch the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle service as he wanted to look after his mum Filomena who lives in the Benevento province of Italy.

Her two full-time carers have now also caught the virus, leaving her without the care she normally relies upon.

Mr Fazzone says he arrived at the port with proof of a negative covid test, a travel curfew exemption, a travel certificate, and a health declaration.

He ticked a box on the travel certificate that permits travel for “compelling family reasons”, which includes providing assistance to the elderly, sick or disabled who have no other support.

Before driving onto the train, passengers have to first show documents to a UK customs official before a French one.

After being given the green light to travel by the UK side, he said the French official was “rude and arrogant” and told him he could not travel, forcing him to turn around and drive back to Harrogate.

He said:

“He had no compassion. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the papers.”

Read more:

• Harrogate district vaccine boost as over 50s prepare for jab
• North Yorkshire police prepare for ‘influx of visitors’ as lockdown eases

Mr Fazzone said his mum, who has signs of dementia, was confused and upset when he did not arrive in Italy.

“She was very upset and she was crying on the phone. She keeps asking my niece when I am coming.”

He said he will try to make the trip again this Friday when he hopes to be allowed into Europe to see his mum.

A spokesperson for Le Shuttle said:

“Any decision on whether to allow a person to enter France is the responsibility of the French authorities.”