Stray Foodie is a bi-monthly food review written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins.
In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years.
Vista View Bistro, How Stean Gorge, Nidderdale
It was a dreak night and I was in one of the most beautiful parts of deepest Nidderdale; How Stean Gorge is a place of such outstanding natural beauty, especially on clear sunny days of which we rarely have. This was not the case on this occasion, as we bumped along a windy road to our destination. Ahead of us rose an amazing, stilted building that towered over dramatic turbulent water with lustrous jungle land and deep vegetation.
A vision of creative owners, Mr & Mrs Stanley Beer who have developed their Gorge with great dedication over many years to its current acclaim. What a beautiful place to live and continue to develop a business. Full of exciting opportunity in this new world of hospitality that we find ourselves in. Exciting outdoor pursuits with fresh, tasty, good food seems to be the order of the day.
The glass viewing area at How Stean Gorge.
My old man and I were there for an early dinner and we felt lucky, as How Stean – as it is known locally – is not often open in the evenings. Like a lot of people, it was the first time out for us for some time. As we entered, the feeling of cleanliness was exemplary and made us feel very safe.
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My old man’s face was a picture of sheer contentment as he devoured a very beautiful Prawn Cocktail. I examined a starter of vegetables and thought, here we have some style. Jowayne, a young and ambitious Chef has given his food a lot of love shown by a neat, clean hand and a good balance of flavour. Although I would have been happy to see or feel more colour and excitement with the menu. Having said that, to find such honest food in the depths of this fine country is a plus. Maybe I was being over-influenced and relaxed by the Spa-themed music during dinner which was ethereal and stark.
Two Vista View Bistro chefs pictured, including its head chef, Jowayne Marshall (left).
The time to visit is obviously during the day with all the lovely Autumnal hues. You will sit and gasp at the extraordinary views over a glass or savour the very good and satisfying local beef or feel spoilt by what’s on offer on the menu; something for all tastes, I am told. Let’s hope Chef puts his Fruit Mousse Spoon on the dessert menu – something I have come across before – and of course it was well worth the drive up the Dale.
Whenever you decide to visit, which is a must during these times, you will be rewarded by friendly Yorkshire hospitality that stimulates you and gives you the good feeling of being British. My little journey for dinner x2, three courses and a glass of wine each cost £85.20 excluding service. Don’t be afraid, there are more economic ways of enjoying this treasure.
To find out more about Vista View Bistro click here.
To read more about Frances’ fantastic career click here.
Glass bistro trial saves How Stean Gorge from cliff edgeThe owners of How Stean Gorge believe that their new bistro with glass walls and floor panels has saved the business.
Vista Bistro, set over an 80 feet drop, opened as a pilot project during the Eat Out to Help Out scheme. The trial went well so the owners have now confirmed that it will open again in the winter.
Coronavirus has been a particularly tough time for How Stean Gorge, which normally makes its money in the summer through its outdoor activities.
As it made no money this year, it will need to cover some of the losses in the winter for it to be financially viable. That’s where the Vista Bistro comes in.
Stan Beer, who owns How Stean Gorge with wife Anne, told the Stray Ferret that they have learned a lot through the trial this month:
“We have made plenty of changes since we opened and will make plenty more before we open the bistro again in the winter. We have had to change the business to make it more upmarket and bring in the big spenders. That is the only way we will be able to keep paying the staff wages.”
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It is a mostly positive story for How Stean Gorge – but the owners still face some difficult decisions in the future.
Mr Beer added that he expects occasionally to close when they are not taking in enough money – an unprecedented move for them.
Head chef Jowayne Marshall has joined the bistro after three years working at the Michelin-starred Yorke Arms under Frances Atkins.
Chef Jowyane Marshall at the Vista Bistro.
The 29-year-old moved to Yorkshire from Jamaica when he married his wife more than four years ago and hopes to bring some Jamaican flavour to the restaurant. He said on the opening:
Glass bistro opens to diners at How Stean Gorge“I’m always ambitious. There’s real opportunity here to carve a reputation and dining experience, meet customers and hear their feedback.
“The menu is small and simple, more gastro-pub. We’re keeping it simple with locally-sourced produce. Going forward, I’d love to achieve a rosette for the new bistro.”
A new bistro with glass wall and floor panels set over the How Stean Gorge has opened to diners – complete with an ambitious young chef.
The Vista Bistro is open for a pilot during the Eat Out to Help Out scheme until the end of August. The owners plan to reopen in the winter with a more permanent offer.
With just one sitting, the socially-distanced tables seat around 20 people per night. The team has track and trace in place and uses fog-in disinfectant.
Head chef Jowayne Marshall has joined the bistro after three years working at the Michelin-starred Yorke Arms under Frances Atkins.
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How Stean Gorge has been attracting visitors for more than 100 years and, in recent times, it has offered abseiling, caving and canoeing experiences.
This latest venture follows a tough year for the owners of How Stean Gorge. Stan Beer and his wife Anne said they needed to “think outside the box to survive”. Mr Beer said:
“Covid-19 hit us hard as bread and butter clients such as hen and stag dos, corporate training events and school trips closed. So we decided to think outside the box and do something differently to survive this.”
Sallie Verity is the front of house manager at the bistro.
Chef Marshall, 29, moved to Yorkshire from Jamaica when he married his wife more than four years ago and hopes to bring some Jamaican flavour to the restaurant. He said:
“I’m always ambitious. There’s real opportunity here to carve a reputation and dining experience, meet customers and hear their feedback. The menu is small and simple, more gastro-pub. We’re keeping it simple with locally-sourced produce. Going forward, I’d love to achieve a rosette for the new bistro.”
To view the menu and more detail visit the How Stean Gorge website.